AC broken and they want $1700 to fix
#22
As far as the inner clip, I had to buy a bigger pair of snapring pliers in order to get it to open enough to get it out. Once I had them, it came out rather easily. Getting it back in was a little tricky making sure it was completely seated.
#23
What year, 2007? I've been lucky with mine. I've only had to replace the alternator and the A/C clutch & pulley. Still running original rear brakes and have only replaced the front pads twice. My wife said I should look at replacing it but I told her that I have finally become one with my car. Her reply was that she's still waiting for that to happen with her.
As far as the inner clip, I had to buy a bigger pair of snapring pliers in order to get it to open enough to get it out. Once I had them, it came out rather easily. Getting it back in was a little tricky making sure it was completely seated.
As far as the inner clip, I had to buy a bigger pair of snapring pliers in order to get it to open enough to get it out. Once I had them, it came out rather easily. Getting it back in was a little tricky making sure it was completely seated.
I bought bigger pliars but they didn't fit down in there was the issue. Had to fish it with screw drivers.
#24
It's a 2011. I had to do the HVAC fan resistor pack under warentee at 26k, the AC Clutch compressor coil at 65k, and need to do a strut bearing now at 80k. Just did the front brakes. I do drive it hard sometimes though, it has seen a track day and two autocrosses (when my miata is down for repairs, which is not often, I will take the Fit to events).
I bought bigger pliars but they didn't fit down in there was the issue. Had to fish it with screw drivers.
I bought bigger pliars but they didn't fit down in there was the issue. Had to fish it with screw drivers.
#25
Do you know where yours was built? My 2007 came from Japan. I know some of the latest ones in the states are being built in Mexico and had quality issues. I have run mine hard since day one. I drove a Dodge Intrepid before this so my getting on the highway style didn't change. It is actually more fun in the Fit taching it up to 6k before shifting and being at highway speed in 3 gear knowing you have 2 more gears for potentially more speed. I've paid more in speeding tickets than major repair replacement parts. I have started taking it a little easier on it. I would love to do autocross with it but I have too many other hobbies and kids sucking up my cash flow. I have thought about going up to Mid-Ohio Raceway for one of their open track days but haven't gotten around to it.
If you get a chance, do take it to mid ohio. I hear that track is a lot of fun and it is on my list of tracks to drive some day. They just finished up the SCCA run offs there the other week. I mostly run at pocono.
#26
Yup, built at the Hiroshima plant in January of 2011. Car #12 for the year.
If you get a chance, do take it to mid ohio. I hear that track is a lot of fun and it is on my list of tracks to drive some day. They just finished up the SCCA run offs there the other week. I mostly run at pocono.
If you get a chance, do take it to mid ohio. I hear that track is a lot of fun and it is on my list of tracks to drive some day. They just finished up the SCCA run offs there the other week. I mostly run at pocono.
#27
How to videos?
So, I stumbled upon this thread as I was considering selling my 2003 Fit.
It has shy of 91k miles on it now, It's been a great car, save for the cosmetic things I wanted to fix later. (My own doing) it is the most economic car ever vs. comfort, even without A/C.
I'm likely the third owner, not sure.
But... Every time someone calls to see it I get second to tenth thoughts then the horn gave out. That led me to need a mechanic to look at it.... No one was available, so I started googling...
And now I feel like I should learn to work on my Honda myself.
Does anyone know where I can learn to troubleshoot that clutch coil?
I was also told I needed at least $1300 to fix the AC cause they claim it was the compressor. a second opinion with my fiancée and his dad and suddenly it was the thermostat. I backed away slowly without blinking and told them I am happy saving loads of cash on gas... And left it be...
Truth be told no one that looked at it likes to work on Honda, they only have negative things to say, but this is my dream car for my current place in life.
I was looking to sell it to get some cashflow for my business, but I keep getting a gut feeling it's the wrong call. I am looking to learn because this car already taught me how to change HID lights ( which my fiancée shat on saying they were exceedingly expensive, oh he generally hates my car, and we are now married anywhoo... I wanna show him I was right this car was my best choice)
So, guys, who knows where I can learn to check the darned clutch coil ( with AC I can ask way more for the car, or enjoy it better ).
It has shy of 91k miles on it now, It's been a great car, save for the cosmetic things I wanted to fix later. (My own doing) it is the most economic car ever vs. comfort, even without A/C.
I'm likely the third owner, not sure.
But... Every time someone calls to see it I get second to tenth thoughts then the horn gave out. That led me to need a mechanic to look at it.... No one was available, so I started googling...
And now I feel like I should learn to work on my Honda myself.
Does anyone know where I can learn to troubleshoot that clutch coil?
I was also told I needed at least $1300 to fix the AC cause they claim it was the compressor. a second opinion with my fiancée and his dad and suddenly it was the thermostat. I backed away slowly without blinking and told them I am happy saving loads of cash on gas... And left it be...
Truth be told no one that looked at it likes to work on Honda, they only have negative things to say, but this is my dream car for my current place in life.
I was looking to sell it to get some cashflow for my business, but I keep getting a gut feeling it's the wrong call. I am looking to learn because this car already taught me how to change HID lights ( which my fiancée shat on saying they were exceedingly expensive, oh he generally hates my car, and we are now married anywhoo... I wanna show him I was right this car was my best choice)
So, guys, who knows where I can learn to check the darned clutch coil ( with AC I can ask way more for the car, or enjoy it better ).
#28
The very first thing you need to do is check the refrigerant level. if that is empty then the clutch will never be energized. Once you determine that there is some refrigerant in it, then start it up and turn the AC on full cold with the fan on full speed. Raise the hood and observe the clutch and compressor shaft. Is the clutch turning the shaft or intermittently turning the shaft - meaning cycling off and on? If the answer is no then you can proceed to diagnosing why the clutch is not working.
I would put a volt meter across the clutch coil to see if there is plus and minus 12 volts being applied to the coil either intermittently or all the time while the engine is running and the AC is on full. If there is 12 volts across it and the clutch is not turning the compressor shaft then you have a clutch problem.
I would next unplug the leads from clutch and put a ohm meter across the clutch coil. If it reads 30 ohms or less, then the coil is OK and you need to figure out your clutch mechanical problem.
I have read but never done this, but many people report that they have found the clearance between the clutch plates is sometimes too wide. They remove the clutch and remove one of the spacer bushings. Then when it is reassembled, the air gap is now much closer and the clutch works.
That ought for now to get you started.
I would put a volt meter across the clutch coil to see if there is plus and minus 12 volts being applied to the coil either intermittently or all the time while the engine is running and the AC is on full. If there is 12 volts across it and the clutch is not turning the compressor shaft then you have a clutch problem.
I would next unplug the leads from clutch and put a ohm meter across the clutch coil. If it reads 30 ohms or less, then the coil is OK and you need to figure out your clutch mechanical problem.
I have read but never done this, but many people report that they have found the clearance between the clutch plates is sometimes too wide. They remove the clutch and remove one of the spacer bushings. Then when it is reassembled, the air gap is now much closer and the clutch works.
That ought for now to get you started.
#29
This is the website I use for all my cars. It It probably won't help you since it it doesn't have a 2003 Honda Fit. I I would look for a similar website that has.your cars. THe one I use gives step by step on troubleshooting and repairimg.
#30
I don't have a wiring diagram for a Fit/Jazz that old....so most of this is assumptions based on how Honda set up other cars:
On most of the cars, if there is sufficient freon in the system to allow it to run, the radiator fan(s) will turn on when you try to run the AC. If the freon were empty the fans would not kick on when you turn on the system.
It may not have the correct amount, may not be enough to cool real good, but at least 40 PSI in the system is enough to close the pressure switch contacts and enable compressor engagement.
If the radiator fans kick on when you try to run the AC BUT the compressor does not engage its clutch, then I would look to the clutch relay, the clutch air gap, and the clutch field coil.
A good field coil would have 3-4 ohms resistance, not 30 ohms.
If you energize the coil it produces a magnetic field which SHOULD pull in (engage) the outer clutch plate, but if the air gap is too large it may not be able to pull it in.
The item I can't tell from here is the thermal protector. Some only interrupt the compressor clutch operation (usually a single wire compressor connector), others are set up to interrupt the entire request signal to the PCM (usually a 3 wire compressor connector).
On most of the cars, if there is sufficient freon in the system to allow it to run, the radiator fan(s) will turn on when you try to run the AC. If the freon were empty the fans would not kick on when you turn on the system.
It may not have the correct amount, may not be enough to cool real good, but at least 40 PSI in the system is enough to close the pressure switch contacts and enable compressor engagement.
If the radiator fans kick on when you try to run the AC BUT the compressor does not engage its clutch, then I would look to the clutch relay, the clutch air gap, and the clutch field coil.
A good field coil would have 3-4 ohms resistance, not 30 ohms.
If you energize the coil it produces a magnetic field which SHOULD pull in (engage) the outer clutch plate, but if the air gap is too large it may not be able to pull it in.
The item I can't tell from here is the thermal protector. Some only interrupt the compressor clutch operation (usually a single wire compressor connector), others are set up to interrupt the entire request signal to the PCM (usually a 3 wire compressor connector).
Last edited by ezone; 10-31-2016 at 11:23 PM.
#31
I don't have a wiring diagram for a Fit/Jazz that old....so most of this is assumptions based on how Honda set up other cars:
On most of the cars, if there is sufficient freon in the system to allow it to run, the radiator fan(s) will turn on when you try to run the AC. If the freon were empty the fans would not kick on when you turn on the system.
It may not have the correct amount, may not be enough to cool real good, but at least 40 PSI in the system is enough to close the pressure switch contacts and enable compressor engagement.
If the radiator fans kick on when you try to run the AC BUT the compressor does not engage its clutch, then I would look to the clutch relay, the clutch air gap, and the clutch field coil.
A good field coil would have 3-4 ohms resistance, not 30 ohms.
If you energize the coil it produces a magnetic field which SHOULD pull in (engage) the outer clutch plate, but if the air gap is too large it may not be able to pull it in.
The item I can't tell from here is the thermal protector. Some only interrupt the compressor clutch operation (usually a single wire compressor connector), others are set up to interrupt the entire request signal to the PCM (usually a 3 wire compressor connector).
On most of the cars, if there is sufficient freon in the system to allow it to run, the radiator fan(s) will turn on when you try to run the AC. If the freon were empty the fans would not kick on when you turn on the system.
It may not have the correct amount, may not be enough to cool real good, but at least 40 PSI in the system is enough to close the pressure switch contacts and enable compressor engagement.
If the radiator fans kick on when you try to run the AC BUT the compressor does not engage its clutch, then I would look to the clutch relay, the clutch air gap, and the clutch field coil.
A good field coil would have 3-4 ohms resistance, not 30 ohms.
If you energize the coil it produces a magnetic field which SHOULD pull in (engage) the outer clutch plate, but if the air gap is too large it may not be able to pull it in.
The item I can't tell from here is the thermal protector. Some only interrupt the compressor clutch operation (usually a single wire compressor connector), others are set up to interrupt the entire request signal to the PCM (usually a 3 wire compressor connector).
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