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I might be trading my 1996 Geo Prizm for a CRX without a drive train in it. I'm thinking of trying to get it or there's a 1996 Integra in the salvage that someone blew up the engine in. I'm thinking selling off the Prizm and getting the CRX or Integra shell and putting a new drive train in it. The place I get my used parts from has a K20 from a Civic Si (the USDM one that's only 160 hp) and a K20 out of a RSX (all I saw was the frame after they stripped it so I'm not sure if it was base or not) for about $850, and the trans for a few hundred more. If I could source the K and the trans, does anyone have an idea of what the total cost for the swap would be? I don't know much about K swaps as far as dollar amounts go. Just curious if it would be worth it or just getting a B series and bolting that up.
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It would run you 3k easy for the K swap but you need to find out what motor came out of the RSX because it might be the same motor that was pulled from the SI. Miles would be good to find out too because the best way is to put in new gaskets. Cheaper route would be to find a used B series motor and buy the integra because its already B series prep’d and with A/C and P/S
. Also what model CRX is it SI or HF because that would tell you if you need to wire for MPFI which is a pain in the ass plus you would need to find a CRX SI harness to do it and sometimes are hard to find.
I read up a bit on the CRX swap and I know it is HF. So that would be a long shot, I would just probably look for a D series or B series (correct me if I'm wrong, but I think those both would fit). I'm pretty sure the Integra was Type S, because that side of the hatch was faded where an emblem would be, but since I didn't have cash with me I didn't go look at the engine, I just got a ball park figure on it. Miles I know are under 50,xxx, this recycler won't sell it if it has more and they check to ensure they at least run (I guess after that inspection is up to you). I would probably agree that the B would be the better route, as I saw a late 90's Integra with a B series in it that had just got there (front end was smashed a bit so I could only peak under the hood a bit, the latch was destroyed). I could see it had a Skunk2 valve cover. I was out there looking for some OEM stuff for my Fit. Got the rear floor mat and cargo mat from the Si for ten bucks! The rear mat fits pretty well.
I was reading up on stuff I would need (radiator, harnesses, shift box, axles etc) and was thinking around $2500 - $3000. Which isn't bad considering I could have a naturally aspirated K swapped or B swapped car for a couple grand, where as I could buy another car with less power and less reliability (since the engine would be inspected for quality before being dropped in) for the same amount of money.
Last edited by Edison Carasio; 02-10-2009 at 05:33 PM.
Well buying the CRX HF your still a long shot off. You still need to rewire your car for Multi Point Fuel Injection(MPFI) it comes stock Dual Point which is only 2 injectors instead of 4.
That being said If you went with the D series you could use everything from the CRX all you would need is a CIVIC/CRX SI engine harness and a ECU which I have (wink wink) and just buy new gaskets. IF you went with the B series you would still have to convert to MPFI with CIVIC/CRX SI engine harness, ecu, axles, mounts, custom shift linkage and misc.
Also all integra’s came with B series motors except for a few that came with D-series motors. The motor in the 90-93 integra’s are perfect since they are OBD0 and you wont have to buy a conversion harness and all the plugs will match up.
Take another look at the integra cause they don’t make a TYPE S. That’s prelude and civic type S in Europe.
Thanks for all the info! I'm at work and typing fast while waiting for my printer, so things might sound rushed.
They had a red Integra (late 90's from what I could tell by looking it over), a Civic Si and an RSX (sorry if I said Integra refering to this one). The RSX was just a frame and some panels (all the goodies were stripped and inventoried) and the red Integra had just arrived from Geico.
Anyone in Illinois/Missouri, check out B's Auto Parts in Madison, Illinois. That's where I go.
K20A3 is not worth it! IT's not an I-VTEC. It is a VTEC-E with DOHC. It runs on 12 valves switches to 16 when it hits VTEC. Low max RPM. No VTC.
Get a real K motor. Even if you DO get the K20A3, it can still safely boost to 350whp on stock internals. The swap for an cheapo K20A3 won't exceed 3k.
Well buying the CRX HF your still a long shot off. You still need to rewire your car for Multi Point Fuel Injection(MPFI) it comes stock Dual Point which is only 2 injectors instead of 4.
Actually this is wrong... the HF's are MPFI. the only cars that were DPFI were the base models and the DX's
with amy of the swaps you are really looking around the same pice which is about $3k unless you get a D.... I have in my CRX a JDM D15B... although its OBD1 it was simple as hell... you can even use the tranny it has now.... 99% of all D-series parts are interchangeable. the motor is relitivly cheap, but the thing that killed me was shipping... got the motor from HMotors.com.
now if u go with the civic si k20a3 yea you have the same hp as a stock obd0 b16, but the trade off is more touque, less miles, and a wider range of tunability.
Your options are plentiful. What you really have to ask yourself is, 1. What will you be usuind the car for? A DD, a track/autox/curcuit racer, or a drag car. 2. How long do you plan on keeping it? 3. and the most important, what is your spending limit?
Actually this is wrong... the HF's are MPFI. the only cars that were DPFI were the base models and the DX's
with amy of the swaps you are really looking around the same pice which is about $3k unless you get a D.... I have in my CRX a JDM D15B... although its OBD1 it was simple as hell... you can even use the tranny it has now.... 99% of all D-series parts are interchangeable. the motor is relitivly cheap, but the thing that killed me was shipping... got the motor from HMotors.com.
now if u go with the civic si k20a3 yea you have the same hp as a stock obd0 b16, but the trade off is more touque, less miles, and a wider range of tunability.
Your options are plentiful. What you really have to ask yourself is, 1. What will you be usuind the car for? A DD, a track/autox/curcuit racer, or a drag car. 2. How long do you plan on keeping it? 3. and the most important, what is your spending limit?
~Jared
oh really i thought they were the same as the civic dx/std. well i guess he doesnt have to do the hard part like i did. *squints*
K20A3 is not worth it! IT's not an I-VTEC. It is a VTEC-E with DOHC. It runs on 12 valves switches to 16 when it hits VTEC. Low max RPM. No VTC.
Get a real K motor. Even if you DO get the K20A3, it can still safely boost to 350whp on stock internals. The swap for an cheapo K20A3 won't exceed 3k.
if you run it up to 350hp you are more likly to blow your motor.... exspecially if your not used to driving a fast car....250 in a honda is still fast as hell... 12.5's all day probably....
to make it up to 350 you would be running a large number of boost and after a few months that motor would be toast. 8lbs is a safe limit but the greddy turbo kit for this motor makes around 260 and skunk2 has a good line of stuff for this motor too
Actually this is wrong... the HF's are MPFI. the only cars that were DPFI were the base models and the DX's
with amy of the swaps you are really looking around the same pice which is about $3k unless you get a D.... I have in my CRX a JDM D15B... although its OBD1 it was simple as hell... you can even use the tranny it has now.... 99% of all D-series parts are interchangeable. the motor is relitivly cheap, but the thing that killed me was shipping... got the motor from HMotors.com.
now if u go with the civic si k20a3 yea you have the same hp as a stock obd0 b16, but the trade off is more touque, less miles, and a wider range of tunability.
Your options are plentiful. What you really have to ask yourself is, 1. What will you be usuind the car for? A DD, a track/autox/curcuit racer, or a drag car. 2. How long do you plan on keeping it? 3. and the most important, what is your spending limit?
~Jared
The K20A3 route is preferred to me for the reasons you stated. The fact that it would have maybe half as many miles on it seems like a better choice to me. But then again if the B series is taken apart and inspected really well, I guess it wouldn't matter. And I'm not looking to create 300+ HP or putting a turbo or SC on it. I'm just looking for a car that is in the upper 180's to low 200's for HP/Torque. And it is mostly for recreational daily driving. I went from a 90 HP Geo to a 109 HP Fit (which seemed like going from a bicycle to a train in terms of power. So going from the Fit to a K20A3 swapped Integra would seem like driving a rocket ship to me. My spending limit is about $4k (after it's all said and done). Piecing this together would be easier for me than dropping the lump sum at once. Plus what can I get for $3k anyway? A used Cavalier? A used Neon? No thanks. A K swapped (even if it's the USDM K20A3) Integra? Yes please.
You guys have been a lot of help! If my plan is stupid, say so! I'm still learning about the K and B series and swaps, so if I'm misinformed let me know!
oh... and there is always the route of the H22 :) not a bad choice either... about 190-200 hp and costs about the same as the B's
I wouldn't just take the engine, I would take the H22A and the Prelude. I have a special fondness for the Prelude for some reason. I was looking for one for a while, but no luck. :(
One step closer to getting the CRX! I got a call yesterday from a freind telling me his newphew (the owner of the CRX) found the title and wants to look at my Geo. The CRX owner doesn't want the Geo, but my freind does. So I'll probably trade + cash then they will work out a deal for the Geo. So it looks like it will be the CRX rather than the Integra I will end up with.
Time to find a cheap tow truck and a storage shed to put it in and to horde parts in!
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