Honda fit 2008 02 sensor bank 1, is there 2 ,0-2 sensors on this car and if so where is bank 1 sensor.

 

The bank 1 sensor is also known as the upstream o2 sensor. Its in a very not convenient spot I must say. I had to replace mine last January. Its just down-stream from the exhaust manifold on the back side of the engine sort of tucked out of view. The cable for it has a rubber gasket ring that clips to some piping on the back of the block. Its easiet to spot the sensor from underneath the car, but once you know where it is, its easier to install/remove the old one going in from the top of the engine bay if your arm is long enough to get in there to unscrew/screw it back in. You'll likely need to buy yourself an O2 sensor removal tool which makes it easier to wrench on the sensor due to the awkward angle. They're something like 10$ CAD from your nearest parts store. I got mine from Princess Auto (similar to autozone).

 

Thanks iv looked for a video on it but all i can find is the sensor by the cat converter.

 

Have a look here
The video also talks about splicing your old harness to a new sensor.....I didn't do that

 

 

This sensor is a super bitch to get to. It can also be hard to take out the old sensor’s retaining clip. OEM Denso is not that expensive if bought online so I recommend that.

last time I changed the sensor, I had to apply some heat with a torch. I strongly recommend getting a crow’s foot style O2 sensor adapter. There’s not a whole lot of room to work in there.

 

Sounds like my first wife. And she wasn't that much fun once you got to her.

Do you have a link for that crow's foot thingy?

 

This is the one I have:


beware it is 3/8 drive. If you can find 1/2 inch drive, go for it. There isn’t enough room to use a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter for a 1/2” drive breaker bar.

 

Excellent information. Thank you, MT.

 

you’re welcome. There’s an axle “guard” that’s held in by 3 10mm bolts you can easily remove to free up a tiny bit of space to move your ratchet back and forth.

With this adapter, changing the downstream sensor is a walk in the park (in case you end up doing that one too). OEM is NGK and I decided to go denso and regretted it. It works fine but doesn’t come with the rugged wire shielding of the NGK. I ended up cutting the NGK wire and slipping on the protective sleeves onto the Denso.

this applies only to the downstream. Upstream OEM part is Denso and it works great. Got a good 5 to 7 years of life out of it first time I changed it.

once you crack open the sensor that can be corroded in place, it’s actually a real easy job. If you can fit some kind of pipe over a 3/8 ratchet as a cheater bar, I think that’s a good bet.

 

Sounds like a lot of leverage is required. Are these sensors robust? I always assumed they would be somewhat fragile. (I have never changed one.)

 

Super robust. Remember they are in the exhaust right downstream of the engine. They have to cycle to extreme temperatures thousands of times…

it’s not that bad. A little heat from a MAP torch on the exhaust did the trick for me. I live in rusty Canada too so all fasteners are nice and crusty.

 

Again, thanks for following up with a clarification. Much appreciated.

Are you using a little blow torch type of tool for heating it up?

 

i just went to Home Depot and got a MAP gas torch from the plumbing/brazing section. I always recommend keeping a fire extinguisher nearby when using a torch. You don’t want to be running into your kitchen in a panic if something goes ablaze. The trick is to concentrate the heat on the hole/exhaust, not the sensor.

Also, try to make sure you regulate the gas to get a blue flame which is hotter. Yellow flame means too much air not enough fuel. A torch can be a lifesaver for stuck fasteners.

i would first start with a good soaking of penetrating oil.

something like this: MAP torch