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My thoughts - since the air filter is one of the restrictive parts of the intake and our little engines have to suck air through there, the stock air box is one of the best design. It utilizes a pressurized box which helps with low end response. And since the air filter is closest to the throttle body, the engine can easily suck the air through it, where as the setup above the air filter is furthest from the throttle body making it harder for the engine to suck air through therefore losing low end torque.
My modded stock airbox - I cut the inlet runner and enlarged it to 2 inches in diameter and extend it to the front bumper to ram air into the airbox raising the pressure and when I open the throttle, air is ready to cram into the cylinder. Some say ram air doesnt have an effect until 150mph, but you still feel incremental increase performance as you get moving even at a slow speed. The longer runner also helps with the lowend torque giving a high velocity of air into the airbox.
This new version that I just created has a y-splitter. Short runner for top end and long runner for lowend torque and ram air effect.
Waterlog worries?
With the CAI wannabe ARC, water was a slight worry but not really since if it does rain, I have a cover to cover up the fog light hole.
With my Modded Airbox with the Runner coming out the bumper -
I've been running this setup through the winter and it rain a few times and I still mashed it in the rain on the freeway with the snorkel sucking in that cold dense rain air. When I pulled over and did an inspection, The water hardly ever made it to the airbox. Almost always dry...And when I did see water, it was a few droplets. But the stock airbox does have a water release hole on the bottom which helps tremendously...try pouring a cup of water in that box and watch it drain fast...from the point on entry of the runner to the airbox, its quite a distance going up so the density of water is too heavy to fully engulf the box. Our little engines can't suck that hard lol.
cool idea with the different length runners! I made something similar only with a PRM filter.
Got tired of the misfire on my 2007 MT GD so I swapped in a 2008 AT GD motor that had 38k miles vs. my 250k... I've either got a burnt valve or a leaky piston so it was time to make the misfire code go away .
Not a lot of fun swapping over the full wire harness from MT motor to AT motor, swapping over oil pan and MT goodies but it all went smoothly. Naturally the MT donor had 4 stuck fuel injectors (sat 2 years) a bad CKP, bad VTEC solenoid and was missing the temp sensors, but I swapped everything over from my motor. Feels great to be driving with no CEL's and window welded motor mounts. Too bad the torque mount bolts were so rusted they were damn near welded to the frame and I had to drill them out. One thing at a time!
cool idea with the different length runners! I made something similar only with a PRM filter.
Yea man just playing around and seeing what works and how things change. Got inspired by your thread on this back in the day.... cheers to you
cnordt24 - I'm running a custom intake setup, weapon R street Headers, Ingalls Engine torque Damper, Apex-i Throttle Booster (Always set on full boost mode),
custom axle back exhaust with a Midget Sprint Car Muffler. I saw your thread on your build....looks amazing what your doing! I'll be following your progress. Cheers to you!
I went to auto-zone and got 2ft of 1/4'' hose for the coolant for the TB, or you can cap them. They didn't have coolant hose in my side, so I had to use fuel hose (armormark 50057) it will work for temp (If I'm lucky maybe 2 years), but would rec coolant hose for the heat. Also the TB spacer came with longer bolts, they were a tad short so I couldn't use the gasket. and you might have to mod your harness for the air intake, I.E. the zip tie in the back, lol...If you want to remove that metal coolant pipe, get more hose and make it a one piece.
as for performance, it seems a little more zippy here and there, but I would rec to use a flash/program...also had to slide the battery to the right as far as I could to fit the CAI, if you have a bigger battery it might be a super tight fit.
Did a wire by-pass on my system so now my audio runs directly from the amp to the speakers through better wire, no more running my audio through the garbage wire installed by honda. Plus I got the ROM working correctly on my Nexus 7 tablet so I can play music pulled through a usb flash drive connected to the tablet via OTG cable.. Next up will be getting the reverse camera to work with it too.. This one may keep me up nights lol.
I just purchased a 07 Fit Sport with some imperfections here and there, including a crack in the lip at the RH mounting point.
I used Gorilla Epoxy and let it cure for 12 hours before I reattached it this morning. Seems to be nice and tight now. I just need to take off some of the tape residue when I get the car back from the dealer (takata airbag recall)
Got around to completing the Valve adjustment with idle re-learn procedure.
Put in new NGK IR spark plugs.
Oil change to Amsoil Signature Series full synthetic oil.
Added Amsoil PI fuel treatment.
Got around to completing the Valve adjustment with idle re-learn procedure.
Put in new NGK IR spark plugs.
Oil change to Amsoil Signature Series full synthetic oil.
Added Amsoil PI fuel treatment.
Hey, just wondering where did you got the CF cowl scoop? Been searching it for a while but haven't find a purchase link :/
01-28-2017, 11:51 PM
maybe in the range of $1K - $1.5K USD if you buy it alone.
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