High Mileage Fits
#21
96000 of mostly highway miles. All regular maintenance. 1 sets of tires, 1 tranny fluid. Still have about 30% on original brakes though (I downshift to slow down a lot...)
At 65000 it gets hard to shift into first sometimes. It's my first MT car, so I'm not sure if it's me or it's the car.
At 80000 miles the carpet around where a dead pedal should be is went loose. Stapled the carpet back in and no problem since.
At 65000 it gets hard to shift into first sometimes. It's my first MT car, so I'm not sure if it's me or it's the car.
At 80000 miles the carpet around where a dead pedal should be is went loose. Stapled the carpet back in and no problem since.
#22
Just an update everyone!
I am now up around 140,000 miles.
I have performed all regular maintenance on schedule and the only problems I have had are....
At 70k I had warped brake rotors resurfaced.
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At 110k I had a malfunction in my voltage regulator that caused my alternator to continue to charge my batter even when it was fully charged, resulting in several burned out interior lights and quickly going through headlights for a couple months. It also caused the headlights (and all other lights) to pulsate brighter and dimmer in sync with an irregular idle that slowly worsened, stalling the car on a couple cold mornings. The dealer could not detect any problem with the electrical system or battery but replaced the battery.
I purchased a Scangauge 2 around this time, and noticed that my car would behave normally at 14 Volts, but acted irregular, with all the symptoms i mentioned before around 17 volts, which frequently occurred, on drives of any length. Again the dealer told me nothing was wrong, and that spikes of 17 are normal for the car. I suspected otherwise.
By 120k miles, After looking around on the net I eventually found a thread for an old domestic car that had similar problems. On faith, I had them replace the alternator (the only way to replace the voltage regulator) and the problem has been solved with the car behaving normally and reading only 14 volts ever since.
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At 130,000 miles the brake wear indicator came up and made noise for awhile. I took the car in to replace burned out dash lights, from the alternator affair, and to have my brake pads and rotors replaced. They replaced the brake pads but misunderstood and resurfaced the rotors instead of replacing those. Never the less, I still haven't re-warped my rotors at 140k.
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Shortly after 130k a metallic rattle began under my car. I suspect the heat shield is the cause. It has gotten progressively worse and now sounds like I definitely do NOT need more cowbell.
Additionally, my car through a check engine light. I was able to diagnose it with the Scangauge 2 as a Catalytic converter performing below efficiency threshold, I believe it was PO420, but I cant remember. I reset the code, and it hasn't come back... soooo money saved? If it gets to the point where it comes on every drive ill replace the cat, which will be awful, but so far I see no need.
So that's it! For now...
I am now up around 140,000 miles.
I have performed all regular maintenance on schedule and the only problems I have had are....
At 70k I had warped brake rotors resurfaced.
-----
At 110k I had a malfunction in my voltage regulator that caused my alternator to continue to charge my batter even when it was fully charged, resulting in several burned out interior lights and quickly going through headlights for a couple months. It also caused the headlights (and all other lights) to pulsate brighter and dimmer in sync with an irregular idle that slowly worsened, stalling the car on a couple cold mornings. The dealer could not detect any problem with the electrical system or battery but replaced the battery.
I purchased a Scangauge 2 around this time, and noticed that my car would behave normally at 14 Volts, but acted irregular, with all the symptoms i mentioned before around 17 volts, which frequently occurred, on drives of any length. Again the dealer told me nothing was wrong, and that spikes of 17 are normal for the car. I suspected otherwise.
By 120k miles, After looking around on the net I eventually found a thread for an old domestic car that had similar problems. On faith, I had them replace the alternator (the only way to replace the voltage regulator) and the problem has been solved with the car behaving normally and reading only 14 volts ever since.
-----
At 130,000 miles the brake wear indicator came up and made noise for awhile. I took the car in to replace burned out dash lights, from the alternator affair, and to have my brake pads and rotors replaced. They replaced the brake pads but misunderstood and resurfaced the rotors instead of replacing those. Never the less, I still haven't re-warped my rotors at 140k.
-----
Shortly after 130k a metallic rattle began under my car. I suspect the heat shield is the cause. It has gotten progressively worse and now sounds like I definitely do NOT need more cowbell.
Additionally, my car through a check engine light. I was able to diagnose it with the Scangauge 2 as a Catalytic converter performing below efficiency threshold, I believe it was PO420, but I cant remember. I reset the code, and it hasn't come back... soooo money saved? If it gets to the point where it comes on every drive ill replace the cat, which will be awful, but so far I see no need.
So that's it! For now...
#26
I've got about 82K on mine from 52K when I bought it. No major or even minor repairs, just maintenance. Had the Transmission fluid changed, new rotors and pads since the old ones were warped, 3 or 4 oil changes last one I did my own, no more dealer or quicklube places, and a wheel balance. My last car, 99 prelude, I had spent hundreds by the time 80K rolled around. This car is so reliable, it's scary.
#27
2008 Sport; 144k. New front rotors & pads, 3rd set of tires, one pair headlights and one pair fog lights. Oil change and tires rotated every 5k. Starting to idle rough when cold, thinking coil packs are in order. Otherwise great car, 37mpg highway in warm weather. 170 mi round trip to work 5x/week.
#31
1st Post - Hi
07 Auto -125k
Many of the same problems and not too bad considering.
I run a pet care/ dog walking business and put 30+ dogs a day through my Fit.
100+ km per day driving 5 days a week. 12l/100 city fully loaded with dogs or 300km to the tank and 7.2l/100 hiway or just over 500km. Brake problems from dealers, 3 changes of pads and 2 rotors. reg oil changes every 3 months or better. Need new rotors again and transmition flush. Standard stuttering problem that everyone else has, coils I think started just befor 100k
About 2 winters ago i lent it to my mother inlaw for a road trip 500km. On her way home she pulled up to gas station where the attendant filled with diesel. Needless to say it spent a good week in the local dealership and Esso reluctantly covered.
I've built a number of cargo areas due to the lack of available ones on the market. Currently using plywood cut to the dimensions then split down the middle covered in rubber runners with a gate. really want to tear the F'ing carpet out and replace with a vinyl material or something. Damn dog hair never completely out. I'll post some pics soon of this, protects the back very well. I've been looking aT recycled rubber mats so I wouldnt need the plywood or have to split it but its very heavy.
Anyhow great to finaly post :P
07 Auto -125k
Many of the same problems and not too bad considering.
I run a pet care/ dog walking business and put 30+ dogs a day through my Fit.
100+ km per day driving 5 days a week. 12l/100 city fully loaded with dogs or 300km to the tank and 7.2l/100 hiway or just over 500km. Brake problems from dealers, 3 changes of pads and 2 rotors. reg oil changes every 3 months or better. Need new rotors again and transmition flush. Standard stuttering problem that everyone else has, coils I think started just befor 100k
About 2 winters ago i lent it to my mother inlaw for a road trip 500km. On her way home she pulled up to gas station where the attendant filled with diesel. Needless to say it spent a good week in the local dealership and Esso reluctantly covered.
I've built a number of cargo areas due to the lack of available ones on the market. Currently using plywood cut to the dimensions then split down the middle covered in rubber runners with a gate. really want to tear the F'ing carpet out and replace with a vinyl material or something. Damn dog hair never completely out. I'll post some pics soon of this, protects the back very well. I've been looking aT recycled rubber mats so I wouldnt need the plywood or have to split it but its very heavy.
Anyhow great to finaly post :P
#34
142,000 Miles
Nice to know my poor car doesn't have the highest miles of all of us. I feel bad for trying to wear it out so fast!
Just as an update...
After 130k I mentioned....
"...a metallic rattle began under my car. I suspect the heat shield is the cause. It has gotten progressively worse and now sounds like I definitely do NOT need more cowbell."
I had this fixed recently, a young guy at National Tire and Battery (the one in Timonium , MD was doing a great job until they recently scratched 2 of my wheels and would take no responsibility for it!!!!) removed the piece for me , you can just break the heat shield off basically. It was over the cat, like I suspected. The rattle is gone! And no $100-200 new parts and labor (more like $50) So.. no more parking on dried leaves for me...
I also had mentioned;
"...Additionally, my car through a check engine light. I was able to diagnose it with the Scangauge 2 as a Catalytic converter performing below efficiency threshold, I believe it was PO420, but I cant remember. I reset the code, and it hasn't come back... soooo money saved? If it gets to the point where it comes on every drive ill replace the cat, which will be awful, but so far I see no need...."
The cat is definitely going bad. I have to reset the check engine light about every 5 drives now. It is not quite obnoxious yet but I know it will only get worse. I am quite worried about what i suspect is a $1000 repair to replace the catalytic converter (on the bright side it would include a free new heat sheild!) so I am contemplating doing an aftermarket exhaust now. May as well go big or go home!
Just as an update...
After 130k I mentioned....
"...a metallic rattle began under my car. I suspect the heat shield is the cause. It has gotten progressively worse and now sounds like I definitely do NOT need more cowbell."
I had this fixed recently, a young guy at National Tire and Battery (the one in Timonium , MD was doing a great job until they recently scratched 2 of my wheels and would take no responsibility for it!!!!) removed the piece for me , you can just break the heat shield off basically. It was over the cat, like I suspected. The rattle is gone! And no $100-200 new parts and labor (more like $50) So.. no more parking on dried leaves for me...
I also had mentioned;
"...Additionally, my car through a check engine light. I was able to diagnose it with the Scangauge 2 as a Catalytic converter performing below efficiency threshold, I believe it was PO420, but I cant remember. I reset the code, and it hasn't come back... soooo money saved? If it gets to the point where it comes on every drive ill replace the cat, which will be awful, but so far I see no need...."
The cat is definitely going bad. I have to reset the check engine light about every 5 drives now. It is not quite obnoxious yet but I know it will only get worse. I am quite worried about what i suspect is a $1000 repair to replace the catalytic converter (on the bright side it would include a free new heat sheild!) so I am contemplating doing an aftermarket exhaust now. May as well go big or go home!
#36
1st post, just signed up and looking forward to joining the community
I'm picking up a 2007 Fit Sport for a daily driver; it currently has 121K on it and according to my good friend (The current and original owner) it has been serviced whenever the car said it needed it and has never needed any irregular repairs.
He says it will sputter every once in a while while driving at freeway speeds but happens very rarely and only for a split second; he has brought it to the dealer several times with no avail.
I'm hoping it proves to be a great daily driver; looking forward to finding out more about these spunky little things
I'm picking up a 2007 Fit Sport for a daily driver; it currently has 121K on it and according to my good friend (The current and original owner) it has been serviced whenever the car said it needed it and has never needed any irregular repairs.
He says it will sputter every once in a while while driving at freeway speeds but happens very rarely and only for a split second; he has brought it to the dealer several times with no avail.
I'm hoping it proves to be a great daily driver; looking forward to finding out more about these spunky little things
#39
I've brought mine from 125K miles to about 160K, and I have:
replaced the battery at about 130K;
adjusted the valves at about 130K and 135K;
replaced the plugs at about 140K (42 MPG improved to 48 with Pulstar iridium plugs);
done my own oil changes (Mobil 1 0W20 for 7,000 miles, AMSoil 0W20 for 15,000 miles, then M1 0W20 again).
All the mods in my signature are still there. EDIT: I removed the throttle controller after it threw a CEL one time.
Problems:
most of the HVAC lights and some radio lights are dead;
1st gear is hard to shift;
needs new brake fluid, and possibly trans fluid;
door dings need to be repainted;
red paint is fading noticeably to pink on up-facing surfaces;
front left tire is starting to rub on fender in moderate cornering;
brake rotors are very slightly warped;
clutch pedal has a small squeak;
headlights flicker a little;
roof seldom leaks in the rear;
and, for some reason, the ECU is not learning the long-term fuel trim.
The wheel that smacked a curb sideways while snow drifting has a cracked spoke, but that's aftermarket, and my fault.
It's all very small stuff which doesn't impact my daily driving, except for the ECU, which needs to be fixed so I can pass emissions.
replaced the battery at about 130K;
adjusted the valves at about 130K and 135K;
replaced the plugs at about 140K (42 MPG improved to 48 with Pulstar iridium plugs);
done my own oil changes (Mobil 1 0W20 for 7,000 miles, AMSoil 0W20 for 15,000 miles, then M1 0W20 again).
All the mods in my signature are still there. EDIT: I removed the throttle controller after it threw a CEL one time.
Problems:
most of the HVAC lights and some radio lights are dead;
1st gear is hard to shift;
needs new brake fluid, and possibly trans fluid;
door dings need to be repainted;
red paint is fading noticeably to pink on up-facing surfaces;
front left tire is starting to rub on fender in moderate cornering;
brake rotors are very slightly warped;
clutch pedal has a small squeak;
headlights flicker a little;
roof seldom leaks in the rear;
and, for some reason, the ECU is not learning the long-term fuel trim.
The wheel that smacked a curb sideways while snow drifting has a cracked spoke, but that's aftermarket, and my fault.
It's all very small stuff which doesn't impact my daily driving, except for the ECU, which needs to be fixed so I can pass emissions.