I have an '07 Fit (regular trim, about 45k miles, original owner) and just had the battery replaced. Now multiple systems have failed and the mechanic at the battery place says that he has replaced every fuse in the car. Here are the systems that no longer work:

1) Radio system

2) Dome light

3) "Your key is still in the ignition with the door open" chime, though you can still here the initial beeping when you first put your key in and turn the ignition to the I or II positions.

4) Glove box light (I actually can't remember if there is one, but if there is, it's not operating now).

5) Driver side sun visor vanity mirror light

6) Trunk space light

7) All power lock functions, unless the ignition is in the on position. So unless the ignition is set to I or II, the power lock switch does not work; if the other doors are unlocked and I lock the driver door, the others do not automatically lock; from outside of the car, if I move the lock to the "unlock" position twice, the rest of the doors do not unlock.

That's all I've noticed so far, but clearly this is a systemic problem of some sort and not just, say, a problem with the radio (which is what the battery place said it was, at first). I also do not see that all of those things run through the same fuse, but I suppose they could. I can't tell from my manual what things like HAC and IGP are, so maybe those are the culprits?

In any case, any help would be appreciated.

 

Were the fuses blown? Why did he replace the fuses?

 

there has to be more to this than simply a battery replacement

 

Battery terminal fuse box. Not sure if separate fuses are replaceable, but whoever you paid to do this should repair it.

 

I have no clue on how to fix what's wrong with your car now but I am going to take a guess at whomever put the replacement battery in may have plugged the terminals in backwards +/- and -/+ with this many issues...

 

They replaced the fuses because they couldn't think of anything else that could be wrong, so no real reason - it was a shot in the dark (that apparently did not work).


Agreed, though I have no idea what would affect those different systems. Thank goodness none of them is vital... but unfortunately most of them are annoying.


There is only one fuse in there, and if that were blown, I believe there's actually no power to the rest of the car. So I don't think it's that. I agree that they should pay to repair whatever is broken. I currently have the car in my possession, but they will be looking into the problem and doing research on Monday. So at least they are not trying to get out of anything (yet).


It's an interesting thought, but with the design of the wires that go to the battery, I think it's unlikely. The wires are not long, and there are two sets that go to the +ve side (with the 80A fuse in-between). If the battery itself were put in backward, the wires would not reach the posts.


Two more bits of info: I've tried disconnecting the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but with no change in behavior. Also, the side view mirror controls do not work without the ignition in the I or II position (but I don't know if that's normal or not).

 

I can only speak to 09-10 Fit, but the terminal box has 3 fuses.

#1 fuse is 100A and specifically protects under dash fuses of most of the things you seem to be having trouble with.
#2 is 70A and protects the EPS Control Unit,
#3 is 20A and protects under dash fuses of the MCIU and brake lights.

Looking into it, the fuses are not serviceable and the terminal box will need to be replaced.

What you see might not necessarily look like a fuse to you.

 

This is the first thing I thought of as well, but I know it generally is pretty difficult to do this in cramped bays as the wires are very short and it's usually pretty obvious which way they go even without looking at + -. I also asked to determine the competency of the technician. He's doing some shotgun troubleshooting lol

I asked if the fuses were blown because that would show someone did mess up during the install. I would agree that it's probably a central control box or something like that.

Anyone have a wiring diagram? If all the accessories are on the same main fuse more than likely that's the problem.

 

See my last post.... I can't get involved with why people fuck up but the problem is in the terminal box and it needs to be replaced. But hearing that someone replaced ALL the fuses is a huge red flag and then to hear Nando's response [his second post on the forum] tells me he has no idea and probably did it all himself anyway.

Sometimes I wonder why bother....

 

Not sure why you would think I did it, when I said a technician did it. If you're interested, the replacement was done at a Mr. Tire in Columbus, Ohio. They told me they would call a Honda dealer on Monday to see if the dealer could help identify the problem, but I will let them know of your suggestion re: the fuse box on the battery. To the best of my knowledge the fuses that were replaced were not blown, but I suppose the technician could have left that information out. In the '07, there is only one fuse at the battery, and it's 80A.

 

Pardon my shortness sir, no offence - sometimes it beez that way... dimes to doughnuts it's the terminal box. I do remember reading the terminal box got bigger. It's interesting how they have it set up - protects the under dash inline fuses from huge power surge if what happened to you happens. Seems at 09 Honda expanded the circuits.

BTW welcome to the freakworld!!

 

well... what I was thinking is that whomever picked up the battery may have simply decided on which to use by the physical size of the battery and not taken in to mind what side the + and - posts are located? I've seen it done... Fuses blow when there is direct contact or grounding the positive lead but if you hook the battery up backwards, it may or may not short the fuse but supply 12v to the wrong side of the components. Think about it. A fuse doesn't care if you hook + to red and - to black. If it is reversed it still works. But if you hook up the same components on a circuit board, unpredictable results may occur. Just be happy the store is willing to fix it. Keep us posted.

 

Thats my remote diagnosis, too.

Replacing fuses without checking if they were blown is a sign of incompetent mechanic that may have mis-connected the terminals as well. After the battery was mic-connected and circuitry activated was there any indication of electronic 'dislike' ?
And unfortunately, the cure is not easily accomplished, nor cheap.

 

I'm glad you're not a doctor - trouble shooting automotive problems ID's solutions, not problems...

post #7 and then #11 - I'll stand by it till Nando comes back.

 

Just heard back from the shop. They say that after doing some calling around, it appears that sometimes (1 in every 100 or so) a Fit's BCM loses its memory when the battery is changed, and a special scan tool is required to enter a code directly into the BCM to reprogram it so that it will communicate with various things such as door locks and radio. We'll see. I'll be dropping it off tomorrow so that they can see if they can make that "solution" work....

 

BCM or ECM?
Have the fuses in the underhood terminal box been checked? All it takes is a volt-ohm-meter and any mechanic must have one.
As for reprogramming the ECM only a Honda dealer can do that.

 

BCM or ECM? or ECM/PCM? ie engine control vs powertrain control.
Have the fuses in the underhood terminal box been checked? All it takes is a volt-ohm-meter and any mechanic must have one. there is a 50A and 80a fuse and 4 others, 10, 30, 40, and 15A.
As for reprogramming the ECM only a Honda dealer can do that.
Has the OBD ii test been performed to see what it says?
At any time was the battery not fully engaged and the ignition turned on? In other words was the ignition on when the battery was installed- likely will damage the ECM. OBD will verify. This can happen if the battery terminals were misconnected as well.
good luck.

 

Most likely ECM as Mahout pointed out. Just curious who "they" is. The shop that worked on your battery or the dealer. Sounds like shop mumbo-jumbo to me. Memory dump is usually caused by surges which could have very well been created when your battery was replaced. One spark is all it takes.

Unfortunately I think only dealers can reload (reflash) your ECM.

 

Definitely BCM, B as in Body. Just dropped it off tonight. Apparently each of BCM, ECM, and PCM can be reset "only at a dealer" with the scan tool, but after-markets being what they are... the technician said he's borrowing one for tomorrow so he can reset the BCM. I guess him 'n Cooter'll get the General up 'n runnin' in no time! (If the reference makes no sense, consider yourself lucky.) Seriously, though, now that I've looked around the Web some, I've seen a couple references to the BCM needing to be flashed occasionally after a disconnect from a battery. So I'm not COMPLETELY dubious (just mostly). If tomorrow's work doesn't do it though, I'll be taking it to a dealer and charging this garage for the work.

 

Okay, this has got to be the stupidest thing ever. Apparently the tech did NOT try every fuse. And apparently all of those systems listed above get their power on the same circuit as... the reverse lights. Sigh. Dropped it off last night and a different tech decided to look at the fuses before the first tech even got in this morning. The 10A back-up lights fuse was blown. Replaced? Everything works again.

Who would think the key chime and radio were on the same circuit as the back-up lights? Whatever. Sad that the tech could miss that when he already tried to replace "all" of the fuses, and sad that all of those systems go through the back-up lights.