Low beam headlights don't work but high beams do?
 

Last night I went to get in my 08 GD3 and the headlights wouldn't come one when I turn the switch. The high beams do but not the low beams. The bulbs in these lights have the high and low on the same bulb, right? So that would mean my bulbs didn't blow. I checked my fuses and they were all good.

I did a search and found a recall for this from 2011 but I never got the recall notice for that, just the window recall.

Suggestions besides going to the dealership and getting ripped off?

I would just buy 2 new bulbs. The bulbs are dual filaments. The low beam filament usually goes first. Never had both bulbs go out on me at the same time though. Try to reseat them first. Good luck.

Cool thanks. I was about to walk out and try replacing them until I read about the recall. I also found it weird that both would burn out at the same time. But thought I'd ask before going through the head ache of jacking the car up, taking tire off, removing the fender liner etc. I just got back from a 10 hour road trip yesterday morning. Thank god they didn't go out while I was on the road and waited till I got home. Drove back from Chicago to St. Louis Saturday night and it was snowing. If they had gone out, I would have been sitting on teh side of the road in the snow for hours and hours.

Depending on your arm/hand size you can do the change without removing the tires. :) Both going out on the road would definitely suck but would definitely be an acceptable excuse to drive home in high beams. I would. Here's an old thread by Sid you might want to check out: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ght-bulbs.html

Yep, they both burnt out at the same exact time. What a pain in the ass to change (compared to my EFs).

I can confirm that changing headlights on a GD is a royal pain in the ass. Also, the clips on either side (fender) aren't the same. One is a plastic plug, and the other a plastic screw... Go figure.

Yeah I hate those. The screw kind never actually come out. And they go back in like jank. Next time I'm.near the dealer I'll pick up a couple replacements.

Thats why i'd convert to bi-xenon conversion. Those bulbs last years compared to months for halogens.

I had a pair of aftermarket bulbs both go out on low beams at the same time. Had to drive home with highs on -(

I got a 138,000 miles and over six years out of the original, factory bulbs. Hopefully these are the same.

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I know this is a relatively old thread but I want to share what I found in mine. The problem was corroded contact most likely due to overheating and resulted to melting of plastic support. See figure below. Notice the bumped(melted) plastic at the top of the red circle. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...227df19abe.jpgEncircled in red is the contactor point where by default it connected to the Ground Rail. This default connection is what powers the low beam.
The reason why some owners experience a behavior where low beam tends to turn on at times when the high beam is flipped back and forth. This would happen only if the contact is not totally corroded. The failure mode in mine is gross that it couldn't be fixed by sanding the contact to expose the copper again.

My solution is to directly wire(put jumper wire on) pin 6[2](red/wht) and the ground rail 12[12](black).
Caution: when you turn the combination switch to high beam(that is by pushing forward the switch), pin 6[2] and 12[12] would not disconnect and thus ground rail takes about 20amps of current(60 watts x 2 + 55watts x 2 divided by 12v batter voltage).

I have been using with this fix for about 3 years now without issues. I just got curious the past few days because of the "caution" I mentioned above. Thinking black wire could overheat when both low beam and high beam are both ON.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...cf2a253d08.jpgScreenshot from hondafitjazz.com hondafit 2002-2008 manual.