Passenger Power Window not working
 

Hi all,

Completely new to this forum, having just inherited a 2007 Fit from my parents. Recently the front passenger power window stopped responding to either switch. I checked the fuse and it looks fine, though admittedly I haven't tried another one yet. The rest of the windows work fine, and the master switch did have the recall work done on it a while back (the window was working after that, to my knowledge) I searched for similar threads and couldn't really find anything similar.

The car has 67,000 KMs on it, and mom used everything very lightly, so I'd be surprised if it were the motor that failed- especially since she'd have used the driver window more than anything. I plan to take the door panels off to install speakers soon, so I'm wondering if anyone could recommend anything I could check while I'm doing it.

Thanks all in advance!

If you're planning to take the door panel off, you have two screws to remove first, one by the door pull and one at the back of the armrest that can only be accessed by removing the armrest cover.

Once you take off the armrest cover, check that the white plastic electrical plug connector to the armrest switches is securely clicked home. If it isn't, that could be your problem.

1) check the 20 amp fuse #15 to the left of steering column (each window has its own fuse), if OK
2) unplug connector from passenger door window motor
connect 12 volt 5 watt light bulb (NOT LED) to the harness side in place of motor
3) try the switch
if lamp works in both directions the problem most likely the motor.
if lamp does not work at all go to step 6
4) if lamp works only in one direction, disconnect the passenger window switch
on the connector jump blu/red to red/blu wires ( 2 to 1) and blue/wht to red (4 to 5)
using paper clip or equivalent;
Operate master switch; if light works on both directions, replace door switch
5) if lamp works in one direction only, replace master switch
6) if lamp does not work at all, connect the lamp (backprobe method) to blue/red and blue/white wires (1 and 3) at the master switch (with switch connected)
operate the switch; if lamp works on both directions, troubleshoot wires between switches (using continuity tester); each wire end to end
if lamp still is not working at all, replace master switch
each window motor has built-in film resistor/breaker which can cause intermittent operation if mechanical restriction or damage to the regulator is present

Wow!! Thank you so much for being so in-depth, I really appreciate this. Waiting for my speaker mounting brackets to come in, so I'm looking forward to going through this.

Pplease report your findings as you do troubleshooting!

Okay so I finally pulled the doors apart to do the speakers and found that there was no light when connecting at the motor harness I got nothing, however the wires you recommended I try on the master switch both work, so it looks like somewhere in between is where the problem lies, which sounds terribly annoying, however I'm glad that the master switch and motor appear okay.

Have you bypassed the passenger door switch per step 4? (this will connect wires from master switch directly to the motor)
Also If you have 9 or 12 volt cordless battery pack try to apply power from it directly to the window motor, to verify that regulator works.

Ack, I missed step 4; will pull the panel off again to try that. I had a guess it was the master switch; the dealer my mother was using did the power window recall, installing the skirt underneath, but they did a real hatchet job on removing the panel correctly. Was a relief that it was working.

They may pull on the connector dislodging wires somewhere; the brutal treatment of interior panels happens when tire and suspension mechanic starts working on delicate electrical assemblies:)
because I am fearing the same I have not done any door switch and light switch recalls (I feel there is not need to do so):)

Alright, so for accuracy, I repeated everything you listed out with the passenger window switch bypassed, and in line, the light only comes on using the down function on the master switch, which is odd, considering that I got light with both up and down when I was testing right at the harness on the master switch. Could it still be a connection somewhere in the wiring, or is the master switch more likely what's toast?

Is the motor designed to not function in either direction if one connection isn't working? In theory, it should only roll down and not back up, no?

The motor will not work in any direction!
Now hook up a test light to blue/red and blue/wht wires at passenger window switch and operate master switch. If you are getting light only in one direction look for intermittent connection at master switch If light works in both ways make sure your jumpers are making good connections and re-test if you are getting light in both directions.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1468423166

Master switch test:
Blue/Red (up): OK
Blue/white (down): OK

Passenger switch test:
Blue/red: When operating at master: OK. Operating at Pass. Switch: OK
Red/blue: When operating at master: OK. Operating at Pass. Switch: OK

Blue/White: When operating at mater: NOTHING. When operating at Pass switch: WEAK
Red: Same behaviour as Blue/white

Looking at the wiring diagram you shared, it makes sense that the window doesn't go down.

substitute switch for passenger window ( from the rear door ?) and re-check

Done- no change at all.

unplug master switch connector
using ohm meter, check continuity of blue/red wire (refer to schematic) from master switch connector to passenger switch connector
do same test with blue/white wire
OPEN and close doors during this test to check for intermittent
Inspect pins on master switch connector (pin can be bent during connector removal)
Next step requires some care
Get 9 volt battery
connect passenger door switch and and hook up light in place of motor
MAKE sure passenger switch is in neutral
connect battery plus to blue/red wire minus to blue/white wire
the light should be on
Apply power directly to the motor (using cordless battery pack (9 to 12 volts) motor should window should move (if it doesn't, switch polarity and re-test)
if both tested good master switch will be the suspect

I found the culprit! Out of sheer curiosity, I opened the driver door and moved the boot around a bit with the switch down and the window came to life! Was the Blue/Red wire that had come apart. I did an ugly, but secure solder on it and everything works great, though I may at some point either repair or replace that harness because there were a few cracks in the insulation- highly likely due to the 20-40 below (Celsius) winters it spent in my hometown.

Thank you for the help, doctor_J - much appreciated!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1468727539

Thanks for update!!
It is very rare to see on 9 year old Japanese car (European cars have wiring with rubber insulation that breaks easy). This is why a standard procedure did not work :)
PS Mods need to put this thread int FAQ section!!!!

I'm glad to hear that it's not a common thing for this car; it was one of the things my dad had suggested, as his boss has had repeated problems with door harnesses up there (but he drives a Dodge, so...) Still, I'm not shocked; winters up there are absolutely brutal. Thankfully mine will spend out his later years in the moderate climate of Vancouver, so here's hoping this is doesn't worsen.

I currently picked up a 10 Sport mirror image. 200369 on clock Will use the diagnostics laid out here and check the door jam wire too. This sight is extremely helpful

wow, I'm not alone! First of all i'm from Quebec, Canada.
Recently my Honda Fit 2007 Sport has the same problem but with a rear left passenger power window. In the beginning I checked ALL 20amp fuses, was OK, after that I open the rear passenger door panel and checked a window motor with a 12v battery, it running up and down, I was sure it is a passenger switch and I bought it and replaced thereafter, nothing change! Then I tested the switch wires and understood that there is the power 12v between YEL/BLU and BRN/YEL, but no power between YEL/BLU and BLU/ORN. So I guess the problem is the BLU/ORN wire. I Didn't check the master switch but I tested both of them while closing and opening both driver and passenger doors. Now I don't know what to do... Could help me anybody?