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nice! that's the service I plan on doing in the spring. I already have the plugs, gaskets and bought a new feeler gauge with a bend. I did buy a new PCV valve since it was cheap. Where is it located on the Fit?
The PCV on our L15A is located under the intake manifold on cylinder #4. You can test it without removing it, btw. At idle, pinch the vacuum line to the intake manifold and listen for the PCV to *click*. Replace it if it doesn't and check the vacuum line as well.
That is a Smart Strings setup you see. I love the system, definitely paid for itself many times over by now. Ironically though, it's only as smart as the person using it.
Some things happened last night... Thanks to domoMKIV for sending over the rear HTS shocks. New strut and shock mounts went in as well as the SPC camber bolts. The 25mm spacers were mostly an addition so that my winter wheels and tires could clear the Wilwoods (apparently 14" steelies wouldn't fit, who knew?! ).
I currently have the HTS' set at 4 turns, which was nice for the dry street last night and I want to play around with them more, but they'll get turned out for snow. It's too bad that I don't have reasonable access to the spring gauge and shock dyno anymore, it would be nice to take some of the trial and error out. Hopefully some of you running these will share your settings? The replacement was long overdue, I had grown quite used to my soft, squishy 150k mile stockers! Good riddance.
You'll be even more so after reading that I paid $300 for all four Tokico's.
No sir, I don't like it. No lowering springs for me! She's about to be going up for the winter. I'll do some Eibach's and GC collars next spring when its getting close to auto-x season. But for now it's all about ground clearance and offroad fun in the snow.
300 bucks for all four? Legitimately jealous of you since when I got my set in 2013, it was 950 shipped. >.>
When I was running 500 lbs Eibachs front and rear (which ground control considers 'aggressive' LOL), I tend to run about 3.5 to 4 rotations from full stiff up front and 3 to 3.5 in the rear. That was my "couch mode" after AX or when bumming around town.
Surprisingly, you can get a good lift with the standard 6 inch long front springs and 7 inch rears that come in the GC sleeve kit. The rear might gain half an inch... But the front will gain at least a full inch or two from stock. haha
$300 for all four! Idk if someone screwed up, but if you look carefully there's a few places where they've tanked in price... (Here's the sauce: https://www.kseriesparts.com/TOK-HTS509FR.html $68.76/ea front! Check Amazon if the link goes dead, that's where mine came from.)
I was hoping you would chime in! "Couch mode", huh? Lol. You ran full stiff front and rear at 500# when on track? How did they feel at that level? High and low speed dampening was acceptable? No bounce? What are you running now? I was thinking 450-500# F, 600-650# R to start on 205/50-15 BFG Rival S 1.5's since I have the 24mm FSB. Btw, I still have those spare SuperPro's whenever you're ready...
Just adding the HTS' raised the car (may not for everyone), front fender height is up to 25" now with the stock springs. I'm shooting for 26" for "winter mode". I'll be running the same 22.7" OD tire size on my snows, hoping to bring the suspension up a bit more to make it happen.
Last edited by idrivemyself; 11-06-2018 at 03:18 PM.
If any of you have noticed on eBay there are listings for polyurethane suspension lift mounts for the Fit. After three months of shipping headaches coming from Russia (which I don't believe were the seller's fault, great communication throughout) my 30mm lift mounts arrived! First off, the casting quality was acceptable and they felt to be of a high enough durometer to work out. Both positives! Knowing ahead of time from the listed photos that they most likely would be a fitment gamble for the USDM GD3, I was prepared for a fight. Boy did they not disappoint! If any of you have seen these and thought about it, here goes...
Luckily the front mount's cup profile and overall mount OD matched the body shape perfectly - score one. Unfortunately the mount ID was waaaaaaaaaay oversized and in no way going to support the strut bearing or strut shaft. The bearing it began to slide inside of the mount with weight and became useless. After some trial and error, I solved this by turning some delrin on the lathe to fit the mount ID with an underlying collar for mount support and a ball-taper to profile the bearing, then threaded the delrin instert ID to create a secure fitment to the strut shaft, which worked great in static. Unlike the OE rubber mounts these poly units do not have an encapsulated pair of structural metal cups, they're 100% polyurethane. All said and done my adaptation looked like this:
The rear lift pucks took some additional compressing of the stock springs to install but otherwise went right in. After install the Fit gained a full 25mm front and rear. Winter mode success!
Unfortunately the front mounts are junk. While the seller claims that the Shore scale hardness is 96-98A (which is great, and I believe that the mounts were well cast), the lack of the encapsulated structural metal cups means that they flex and shift an EXCESSIVE amount... So bad that the weight change from stabbing the throttle in second gear would break the tires loose due to the instant camber/caster/toe changes. Cornering stability was hardly existent and my braking distances doubled... (And yes, I did an alignment post install and my winter tires are in fine shape) If this was a 1980's FWD Cadillac all of that would be normal, but the front mounts completely obliterated the Fit's steering and handling characteristics to the point of a safety concern. If I had done the install for someone else, I would not have let them drive the car. That bad. So they came right back off. Back to the drawing board, c'est la vie...
At the same time I did some polyurethane casting of my own. Forsch sells two-part 60A casting urethane that I poured in to the front transmission mount and rear engine mount. (I'll photo the rear mount once it's installed, currently waiting on a set of Blox subframe collars as well)
The front mount alone has made a nice difference! Crisper shifts being the most positive impact. There's a minimal amount of additional in-cabin vibration at idle but nothing harsh at all. The mounts I used for casting were brand new units and fully filled on both sides. I'll report back once the rear unit and collars are in.
$300 for all four! Idk if someone screwed up, but if you look carefully there's a few places where they've tanked in price... (Here's the sauce: https://www.kseriesparts.com/TOK-HTS509FR.html $68.76/ea front! Check Amazon if the link goes dead, that's where mine came from.)
Unfortunately the answer is no to both of your questions. SuperPro decided that the USDM GD3 bushing wasn't worth pursuing and the JDM GD3 front subframe and control arms are a different design that isn't compatible with our chassis. Your only option (that I currently know of) is to take the steps that I did. Mine are still going strong after several years now and I can't recommend the upgrade enough.
To jump right in, sadly my Fit is no more... I encountered a deer with a death wish on the freeway and the insurance decided to total it out. From what I could see, the deer broke the core support, cracked the radiator and condenser, broke the passenger side headlight tabs, rocked the engine back so hard that it broke the rear transmission mount, broke the windscreen and dented in the roof support between the A-pillars, and kept driving at speed until I could safely pull over. I was fine, no injuries. The little car did really well! And it drove home 4 miles after the incident!
Yes to everyone, I was able to retrieve all of the aftermarket parts and I will have a FS post coming soon. There's everything that you see in this thread and then some. Blox subframe collars, Blox FSB, DC 4-1 header, DC chassis brace, Progressive RSB, Wilwood DPHA's, Tokiko HTS's, SuperPro bushings, OEM trunk liner, OEM NOS fog light kit, gasket kits, head studs, etc, etc... Stay tuned!
To jump right in, sadly my Fit is no more... I encountered a deer with a death wish on the freeway and the insurance decided to total it out. From what I could see, the deer broke the core support, cracked the radiator and condenser, broke the passenger side headlight tabs, rocked the engine back so hard that it broke the rear transmission mount, broke the windscreen and dented in the roof support between the A-pillars, and kept driving at speed until I could safely pull over. I was fine, no injuries. The little car did really well! And it drove home 4 miles after the incident!
Yes to everyone, I was able to retrieve all of the aftermarket parts and I will have a FS post coming soon. There's everything that you see in this thread and then some. Blox subframe collars, Blox FSB, DC 4-1 header, DC chassis brace, Progressive RSB, Wilwood DPHA's, Tokiko HTS's, SuperPro bushings, OEM trunk liner, OEM NOS fog light kit, gasket kits, head studs, etc, etc... Stay tuned!
Surprisingly no. As you can see in the photo the deer hit fairly high up and missed the crash sensors in the core support. It also wasn't carrying enough mass to trigger the center module either. Had the deer been shorter or bent/fallen over it most likely would have.
So sad I had the same thing happen last year with my Lincoln. Scary incident! I'm glad to see the Fit windshield held. I always feared that it may not.
I have interest in the collars, FSB, chassis brace, bushings, gaskets, head studs...
Do you still own the car? What's your plan for it? Wish I were local!
You have a PM! Again, still compiling parts and a grand FS post may not be coming until the weekend. Stay tuned.
No, the insurance paid out on it and I let it go. It would be nice to have an enthusiastic local GD owner to have take everything at once! I keep unboxing more and more parts that I had forgotten about!
10-15-2018, 09:51 AM
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After install the Fit gained a full 25mm front and rear. Winter mode success! 
From what I could see, the deer broke the core support, cracked the radiator and condenser, broke the passenger side headlight tabs, rocked the engine back so hard that it broke the rear transmission mount, broke the windscreen and dented in the roof support between the A-pillars, and kept driving at speed until I could safely pull over. I was fine, no injuries. The little car did really well! And it drove home 4 miles after the incident! 
