List of To Do for 07 with ~200k manual
 

Hello all,

I have an 07 Fit manual that has about 190k miles on the clock. It seems to be running pretty good. I didn't get any records with it so I'm somewhat flying blind here. I want to get everything that makes sense done to it, or do it myself. Here's kinda the list I made so far.

INSPECT
Check brakes
Tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
Suspension components
Driveshaft boots
Inspect and adjust valve clearance
Inspect and adjust drive belt
Inspect idle speed

WORK
Replace the oil
Replace oil filter
Dust pollen filter
Replace engine coolant
Replace Brake fluid - Always use Genuine Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid
Replace spark plugs
Replace air cleaner
Replace fuel filter
Replace manual transmission fluid - Always use Genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) 1.5lt

Should I go with some quality spark plugs? Any recommendations? I'm pretty much a noob on this car, but I like what I'm seeing so far. Replace the drive belt?

Any other things I haven't listed?

Good list!

We are at the same miles. Here's my $.02...

Include the rear brakes in your check. If like ours, the shoes are just now needing replaced.

Brake fluid - nothing wrong with Honda fluid if not tracking or mountain driving. We switched ours to ATE TYP 200 early on due to severe brake fade with Honda fluid.

Spark plugs - we run Denso IK22's. They are one heat range colder than stock and seem to give a slight power increase.

Engine Coolant - Use Honda coolant

Fuel Filter - not replaceable. Only has a sock on the in tank fuel pump.

Transmission fluid - have used Honda and Amsoil. Both work well.

What was wrong with your rear brakes? Crack, warpage, worn out?

Interesting about the fuel filter. I'm pretty sure I saw that in the manual. I'll look for that again.

I am wondering what you are using for lube? I bought Modil synthetic 10-30 at my local CostCo. I wonder if I should go with that or something else.

The rear brakes just need new shoes. They are down to very little material left. I'm not going to replace the shoes. Doing a disc conversion instead.

I run 5w30 Castrol Edge Titanium in ours. They've changed the exact name a few times through the years, but that's the one we've used.

If I remember right, the US owners manual calls for 5w20 and other countries manuals called for 5w30.

The reality is that as long as it has oil and isn't way contaminated or way the wrong viscosity, it will probably be fine.

They should have done that with the sports model originally. I think it would have made alot of peeps happy.

I was really surprised when the 2009 (GE) Fit came out and it didn't have rear disc. Was even more surprised with the next generation, and then the next...

At this point, It's nearing absurdity level in my mind.

It seemed that after the GDs Honda was angling for a more "sedate" Fit? Granted I didn't do that much research on the Fits before getting one, but it seemed like they introduced a Fit that was dialed it. The only thing was the general US public thought it was too "rough" and wasn't a soft ride. From then on they kinda weaken it up from what was introduced, right?

That's kinda my view and why I went with getting a GD. :iough:

That is precisely my view as well. I suppose the market research showed Honda that people wanted a "softer" Fit. I have to say that the newer ones are quieter, smoother, and nicer in most ways.

We'll stick with our GD :D

It's really too bad Honda didn't go with two more distinct Fits. Would have been easy to do. Have a base model that was "sedate" and a sport model that had more of a GT angle to it. Not sure why they went with the path they took. Both the base model and the sport are, for the most part, the same.

I have no problem sticking with the early Fits. It was what I'd like to see in an economy car.

I also have an 07 MT base, and I think I'm in the "sedate" category. I just changed front pads and rotors and fluid... after 62k miles and 5 years. Cost was about $120. But the drums only needed to be dialed out seven clicks, and they were the way I like them (light drag).

(Aside: dang, those rotor screws are a pain after 5 years... and I had used that awful Brake Quiet glue on the pads. When I saw that old crud, it took me back in time, and I thought I should be listening to some Beastie Boys or something).

I also have both the Fit Base steel wheels (with snow tires) and some alloy wheels similar to the Fit Sport. I prefer the ride on the smaller-diameter steel wheels. I think the car has enough road feedback without making the rubber thinner.

How hard is it to do a conversion? Is it the same on GE8?
Do you have the parts needed for conversion? I'm at 141k and my rear brakes needs new shoes. Thanks.

I am following this "how to" thread...

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...onversion.html

For the GE, you would need a different kit, but the same company makes one...

https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=205

Kit for the GE includes rotors.

Got the coolant replaced today and the mechanic made a recommendation I really liked! He suggested it would be a good time to replace the the thermostat while doing the coolant. What made it even better was that he didn't really charge me for taking crap apart, which was way cool! The coolant and thermostat replacement cost less than $125.

I'm really lost at the Inspect idle speed.

Inspect it for what? Is this something where the mechanic looks into the car and sees that it's idling at 900 rpm and yells "check"? What's the point? Am I missing something here?

I'm also kinda lost at Inspect and adjust valve clearance and Replace spark plugs.

Seems like you're just asking for trouble. Even the manual saying, "Adjust the valves only if they are noisy.", page 173. Seems the same could be followed for the spark plugs too. Why mess with them if there's no problem? I've only burned about a half tank so far and it looks like I'll be able to easily get 40 mpg or better. I'm assuming that when it's a half tank showing, there's half the tank gone.

Did you mechanic put a genuine Honda T-stat?
I would stay away from aftermarket ones on the car that is less than 15 years old:)

In the case of valves, inspect means to use a feeler gauge and check the clearance. If they've never been done, they are way overdue. Ours are slightly out of adjustment when I check them each 50k miles.

Plugs are not an inspect. They are a replace and I highly recommend that you change them.

A good friend did not change his and the motor ejected a plug through the coil at 120k miles. A second plug was down to a few threads and was going to eject next. It's a common problem that can usually be avoided by changing them according to the manual. At the very least, I'd inspect and re-torque them.

While loose plugs form factory are not that uncommon, most plugs are coming loose after removal and installation when:
a plug gasket sealing surface is dirty or eroded;
anti seize is used on aluminum threads
plug is torqued to the value but gasket is not crushed for whatever reasons

In my friends case, it took 120k miles of not checking them. He's the original owner and they had never been changed.

I agree that it's strange.

We have one plug on our Fit that's loose every time I do the valve adjustment. I think cylinder 3 on our car just has poorly machined threads. I've had to replace that coil once due to carbon fouling. Thankfully, I've caught it before ejection.

OK I'll do the ignition coils and valve adjustment. I'm thinking the point made on #13 about Inspect idle speed is a joke, right?

Anyone got a top three on plugs?

Inspect idle speed just means to verify that it's within range.

If it's not, then they have to figure out why. Gunked up throttle body, ignition issues, etc.

For plugs, I'd stick with either NGK or Denso Iridiums. The factory plugs are Iridiums and I recommend sticking with them.

Inspecting idle speed is checking the throttle opening angle with scanner during idle. Cleaning out dirty throttle body will cause surging idle unless TP sensor is calibrated using Honda bi-directional scanner.
Also, just for kicks, check the condition of the outer tie rod end boots. I've found the rubber deteriorating on mine