During my tire rotation I discovered cracks on outer tie rod end boots it was not pleasant surprise (my 87 Camry had original boots for its entire life despite significant wear in ball joints). The good news was that: a) the replacement boot was available at the dealer (p/n 53546-S84-003), b) it is very inexpensive even at the dealership and c) replacement procedure is well covered both in the manual and on Internet. I changed both sides in less than 1 hour using my special tools (for fun and convenience). The same procedure applies with slight differences to the majority of post 2003 Honda cars. My apologies for some out of focus images taken with phone, (should be using camera all the time!)



Notes:
1) The boots are filled with Honda MP Grease that looks and smells different compared to the MP grease I use for industrial applications. So, whenever possible, scoop the grease from the old boot and reuse it (especially if old boot is cracked on the outside only)
2) My car is relatively rust free; when rust is present additional preparation (not covered) may be needed; in any case wipe old boot clean (I used shop towel and rubbing alcohol)
3) Before work, turn the front wheels to the opposite side you are working at to expose work area. I did one side on the time with other wheel still on the ground
4) While this can be overkill, do not rotate taper stud in the joint after it removed from steering knuckle
5) If you are working on someone else’s car, inspect steering linkage for loose components by rocking steering wheel side to side. If knocking is heard, the joints may be worn out and boot replacement will not help

Materials:
Two new Boots
Two cotter pins 2mm dia by 24 mm long
Tools:



Jack stand (not shown)
17 mm socket and ratchet handle to remove nut
3/16” wide flat screwdriver (to pry old boot)
Torque wrench (recommended)
Tie rod end puller or equivalent (I used ordinary puller with 3/8-24 forcing screw) to separate tapered stud it from the steering knuckle
Small hammer
Tool to install new boot on the tie rod end (must have 32.5 to 32.8 mm ID and be minimum 46 mm long; I machined it from gray PVC pipe 1 and 1/4 ID). [Yellow box]
C-clamp or seal driver to force new boot on the tie rod end; I used fancy screw-type mini press I made for different application
Puller guide (if two jaw puller is used) indicated by cyan arrow
Procedure:
1. Support the car and remove wheel
2. Remove cotter pin from the stud
3. Clean the threads using brush
4. Break loose and remove 17 mm nut; reinstall the nut flush with the stud end
5. Install 17 mm socket on the nut
6. Insert puller guide to the 3/8 square drive hole on the socket (a guide can be made from 3/8-16 socket head screw cut to 7/16 inch length)
7. Place forcing screw tip into the puller guide (cyan arrow) and install jaws on the steering knuckle:




8. Tighten the forcing screw to pop the cone stud from steering knuckle (both studs popped out loose with the sound of the train wreck without much effort)
9. Using screwdriver and small hammer dislodge the old boot; one light tap is typically enough.
10. Now remove the nut, take the tie rod end out of the hole and take old boot off:



11. Scoop the grease from old boot and transfer it to new boot; keep 3/16” near the top free from grease



12. Stick new boot into installation tool; insert stud into new boot and press the boot on the tie rod end (I used the press but C-clamp can be used as well):



13. Insert stud into the steering knuckle; reinstall the nut and tighten to 32 foot pounds
14. Install the cotter pin
15. Put wheel back (torque to 80 foot pounds) and do the other side.
16. Road test the car; alignment is usually NOT required after this repair