Jealous. Can't wait to put in a cam...maybe this winter? Good luck!

 

Ordered a Hondata FlashPro tonight. Figured I better get the thing in and start learning how it works.

 

Read through your thread, can't wait for boost!

I think I'll look into a rear sway bar, made a huge difference on my CL as well. How bad are the endlinks to get off? Does the Fit share any suspension parts with other Honda's?

 

The Fit doesn't share any suspension parts that I'm aware of. It's a beam rear axle with no factory sway bar. So, no end links to deal with as there are none in the rear.

The RSB bolts to the lower spring perches and works to a) make the two sides work together and b) effectively stiffens the weak factory beam.

To me it definitely improved handling, but the bigger benefit was improving the way it feels at higher speeds. Keeps the rear following the front and took away a TON of the wandering to me. Some report no difference. Not sure how.

 

Oh, and I don't know what fasteners Progress is currently sending with the bar, but ours way back when came with hex head bolts. The hex heads interfered with the bottom of the springs. I replaced all of the fasteners with allen pan heads to eliminate the contact.

 

Realized that I forgot to mention a few things that I've bought over the past few months. I'm not very good at this whole update thing it appears. The following are also here waiting for install time...

FastBrakes stainless brake lines
Megan downpipe
Torque Solutions shifter bushings
Lightweight crank and alternator pulleys

I will start messing will the car soon and will do my best to get pics as I go. Try to get better at keeping this updated.

 

You should also replace the rear beam bushings with the JDM/ROW units. The Progress RSB is a band-aid for the "comfort" OE USDM bushings. Without a more solid chassis/beam mount it will still be allowed to move excessively and wander vaguely, control/predictability is key.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ml#post1377435

 

Those are on my to do list!

 

So you say the Progress RSB helps with high speed stability? Maybe I should look into it for my straight line adventures too. I figured it's just added weight for drag racing purpose.

 

Maybe our rear beam is more bent than others from the factory or maybe we're just more sensitive than others, but the wife and I both found the Fit to track much better in a straight line at 70++ with the RSB.

Installed the R18 throttle body and flashed it with one of the Hondata tunes. Used the "310cc injector, improved throttle response, raised rev limiter" tune, but changed the injector size back down to 185cc. Haven't driven it yet, but the cars not thrilled with the R18 throttle body. It has some funky idle/rev thing going on. I will circle back to the issue later since I'm getting close to taking the thing down entirely for valve adjustment, differential, clutch, etc.

Ordered a set of Si 310cc injectors to swap in as well. Figured that way I can run the tune exactly as Hondata created it. I'll start collecting change from under the couch so I can afford a dyno session with a local shop. Shop charges $250/hour and they said it will take 2+ hours.

Hoping I can get the R18 throttle body to behave because it is actually a closer fit to the opening on the stock intake manifold. I didn't use calipers to measure, but I'd guess the opening on the intake to be 58mm. So, the R18 throttle body at 55mm is actually closer than the stock 50mm. Instead of re-routing coolant lines, I just bypassed the throttle body. Living in the South, I have bypassed many throttle bodies through the years. No fear of frozen throttle plates on a car that won't be driven when it's below freezing.

 

Just ordered over $200 worth of bearings and seals for the transmission from hondapartsnow.com. Ouch! Figured if I'm opening up this 191k mile transmission, I should change the bearings and seals while in there.

I was looking into replacing the synchro's, but we don't seem to have an aftermarket option and they are stupid money from Honda. Anyone know of a different source in case they don't look perfect?

 

Proper dampers, sound bushings, and a quality alignment will do more for you in drag racing stability at speed than bolting on a RSB.

 

And you're adding a new diff?!

 

Yeah, I have a Quaife differential and Clutch Masters complete kit with over sized billet flywheel and clutch to install. Bought all of the misc bearings and seals from Honda to refresh the thing while at it.

Those along with the clutch delay bypass, torque solution bushings, custom shift knob and Mugen shifter that we already have should wrap up the transmission side of the build. Looked at final drive options, but think I'll leave that alone.

 

Nice. Any reason you went with the Quaife? (Aside from the obvious of it being a Quaife, because "duh" , but surprisingly there are several options on the market) Mine needs a diff as well and I'm having an internal debate with myself about adding the OBX or waiting until a used Quaife/Mfactory/any other helical becomes available. My reasoning is that the L15A makes a paltry amount of torque and I plan to leave it N/A, so even if the OBX uses otherwise inferior metallurgy and a cast casing it still should hold fine. And it's my $4000, 10 yr old Fit after all, how much performance/abuse am I really looking at from mine... Now, if it was the dedicated track car this wouldn't be a debate at all. As long as I QC the thing straight out of the box to ensure that it's sound and add new bearings (plus it has a "warranty"), it should be fine and for ~$400-500 less. In my case, this is also a temporary fix as I plan to go K series at some point... I should be able to recoup a few hundred from it once the transmission is back out.... So total real cost after the sale is ~$200-300?

Edit: Yes, I'm mucking up your thread with my ramblings.

 

I was shopping diff's and had settled on probably going with the MFactory because it was a fair bit cheaper than the Quaife. I wasn't going to go OBX for fear of quality, but I'm completely with you on giving it a try. OBX stuff is generally lower quality, but it also generally works.

Then an awesome FitFreak person posted about a shop that had Quaife's on eBay that they got stuck with and were clearing them out. I bought it really, really cheap. The machining and overall look of the Quaife is really impressive. It's a well made piece.

 

Just placed an order for a camshaft. Cat Cams #2503002. 279/255 duration and .395/.382 lift. Lift looks ridiculously small to me, but I'm used to domestics. I told the cam company my plans and let them pick the camshaft. Figured they know better than I do. Pretty sure they don't know less.

They said it will take 4-5 weeks. First time I've ordered something from Belgium. Seems really odd buying a camshaft made in Belgium for a Honda, but they are the only company I could find that offers virgin camshafts for the GD. I didn't want a regrind.

Need to order valve springs now. Going with Brian Crower springs/retainers instead of the ones offered by Cat Cams. The BC springs are less expensive and they have a good reputation.

 

cool! Can't wait to hear your results with that. I'd love to get a cat cam sometime too.

 

Just called the shop that I plan on using to do the tune to find out about getting a baseline dyno. I think it would be interesting for everyone, including myself, to see what I/H/E/cam/tune is worth on the GD. Without a baseline I won't really know if the parts are worth it.

Right now the car has no steering wheel, idles poorly from the R18 throttle body, and has been flashed with one of the canned Hondata tunes. I'll work on fixing those things and then call for a dyno appointment to see what this thing makes stock. Highest dyno I've had was 532whp. Lowest I've had was 178whp. I have a feeling this dyno will be a tad lower than others I've done.

 

Yes it would be very interesting, I only know of 1 person who invested in a camshaft but it was for the L15A7, Stage 2 bisimoto cam with springs and retainers. Went from 115 whp to 125 whp after the cam with some loss on the low end. The lack of adjustable cam gear did not allow for shifting on the powerband.

That cam you mentioned, What stage is it?