Twice just now, and once a few days ago, on the highway, MT 2008, cruise control on about 50 mph, feet nowhere near brake or gas pedal, hands not anywhere near steering wheel controls, cruise control turns off, the light goes out. The cruise control Main light stays on, but the other cruise control light goes out and the car loses power and coasts down. No trouble getting the cruise back on. What's going on?

 

There are cutoff switches on both brake AND clutch pedals.

Look under the dash to verify that a slight vibration is not causing either to actuate. Make sure the pedals are fully returning, too.

 

Buff, I should have included "no feet near clutch either". No feet near any pedals or steering wheel controls. Cut out three times on me, on extended long distance highway driving, no use of the pedals for previous half hour or more, no vibration other than smooth highway normal road surface. Where would I check under dash? I'm not haooy about this *at all*. Is there any service bulletin about this that anyone knows about?

 

If it is one of the pedal switches how do I tell if its the brake or clutch switch?

 

I've had one car with this issue (incorrect position of a pedal disconnecting the Cruise because the return spring was weak).

Remove any covers, then inspect the CC switches that are actuated by the pedal arms. The pedals should return firmly to their resting positions, you should not be able to release them farther. Likewise, the switches themselves should be firmly mounted and properly 'aimed' at the pedals. (I once had a brake-light switch come loose on my sports car...ran the battery down in that instance. A stout zip-tie kept the switch properly mounted after that.)

As to your previous post, I doubt if you could tell visually if its the brake or clutch pedal sw if it was purely an electrical issue (bad switch). I suppose you could tape or otherwise bind the switches one at a time.

Of course, worst case scenario is that the issue has something to do with the CC controls...with throttle-by-wire it gets more complicated.

 

I like Carbuff's suggestions above. My other thought is maybe the clock spring in the steering wheel intermittently loosing connection.

I think his suggestions are more likely though since the cruise main isn't going off.

 

thanks guys. Will follow up.

 

alright, both pedals returning to top by themselves, can't lift them up further. Next will visually inspect the switches, but that will take some days before I get to it.

 

Check your cruise control switch on the steering wheel. Quite a common failure on Hondas and is of course a wear item.

Keep an eye on the actual on/off button for the CC switch. It could be worn down to the point of intermittently making contact which typically results in CC being deactivated.

You MIGHT get lucky by during the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left and loosening the 2 or 3 screws that secure it... BUT from what I usually see when inspecting or replacing the CC switch or even the radio control switch on the opposite side on other models, the steering wheel usually has to come off. :/ Which in itself isn't hard to do since you don't need a steering wheel puller to get the steering wheel off.

**I will not be held responsible for any injuries or damages if you do this**

If you go this route you WILL NEED to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for AT LEAST 3 minutes, a T30 Torx for the 2 airbag bolts to remove it and a 12 or 14mm socket for the bolt that secures the steering wheel.

Links below will lead you to Honda step by step instructions. For actually removing the wheel, again no wheel puller is needed. Back the bolt out a little bit and give the steering wheel a few good smacks alternating from 12 and 6 O'Clock positions, 9 and 3, etc. It will slowly work its way loose. =)

Cruise Control Switch Test Note: I'm not sure if the pin layout for the switch is the same as the UK-Spec but you get the idea via the instructions.

Steering Wheel Removal

Steering Wheel Disassembly/Reassembly

Steering Wheel Installation

 

Hootie! I'm going to guess off the bat that you nailed it; I'll get to this next week, and I thank you so much for reassuring that no steering wheel puller is needed, despite the warning on the manual "do not tap steering wheel". I appreciate this. I will report back once I get to this. I will still visually inspect those switches down below, but I'm thinking its likely to be this steering wheel switch.

 

With the car off, listen for the 'CLICK' of the pedal switches. No bending required. (Well, not much anyway)

If it only takes a slight movement to hear the CLICK you may need to readjust.



But, props to Hootie for his advice!