My 151R works exceedingly well. My car was produced in the early part of 2011, bought the car in May 2011. Ever since my battery has worked well despite 96000 miles of driving. Lots of starting/stopping daily. Only recently has the car slightly hesitated in starting and there was that one day just recently where I took a brief nap in the car listening to the radio where I awoke to find I had zero power. Fortunately I had AAA and the tow truck came with jumpers in 20 minutes.

So for me its all about having a little extra power just in case. The stock 151R has 57 minutes of reserve and the 51R 75 minutes. The 151R has 340 cold cranking amps where the 51R has 500.

If you are like me who depends on his car for business or maybe you live out in a rural area, you might need that bit of extra power just in case.

I just installed it and here is what it looks like:

http://i44.tinypic.com/2lwwx0y.jpg

Here is what I did exactly:

http://i43.tinypic.com/2uz9vyc.jpg

You really need this item from Autozone:

http://i43.tinypic.com/2ujo67c.jpg

In the future, Im going to get some red electrical tape and tape up the exposed part of the black wire in the photo. I used the red cap from the battery terminal off of the Kirkland battery to really seal it. Notice in the picture I routed the wire under the battery bracket so nothing can be moved easily. The positive cable cannot be moved because its locked under the battery bracket. I gave everything a good shake and its very solid installed like this. Nothing moves.

IMPORTANT: Nothing on the positive (RED) end can touch anything metal so its important to make sure none of the red is exposed. In the morning, I will find some red electrical tape to really seal it up. I will also give it another shake. I think without the electrical tape its fine, but just want to be 100% safe. If anything on the red cable touches anything metal then the result is a fire as the battery connection arcs.

These pictures make this look easy, but it did take two tries at the installation over two days and about an hour or so of work and going to Autozone to get the correct parts.

muy feo...

Y usted tambien, idiota.

Its supposed to be functional and not meant to be pretty.

I looked through all the cables on NAPA and Autozone. The shortest one of this variety I could find was 12 inch, but I noticed I used the 15 inch. I just ordered a 12 inch cable.

There is nothing "ugly" about a real battery that does away with all of the failings of the "battery excuse" that the car was supplied with by Honda.

chupame.

Every connection is an increase in resistance and a point of failure, especially near the battery (source of corrosion). The terminal block floating around behind the battery is a source of problems too. It's not subjective ugliness; it's a failure waiting to happen. If you've never seen a car battery arc-out it's a sight...

Agreed. The right way to do this is to replace the cable or the connector. Piggy-backing just to be an extension cord is like plugging a power strip into another power strip. Too many places for issues. Do it right or don't do it at all (and definitely don't promote doing it the wrong way).

~SB

OR save trouble and get an intake. Now you have throttle response, no negative impact on mpg (sometimes improves depending on driving style), and plenty of space for that 51R

Honda screwed up using the 151R, plain and simple. They just had to get rid of using the 51R that they had been using for 20 years

In the photos above, the battery is not connected. Do you have clear photos of a finished connected product? Thanks.

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/6538/1000160j.jpg

Stock positive cable with add-on pos. wire for after-market horn & relay.

SevereService...can you provide some better pictures of the final install? Any clearance issues with the hood, and is the OEM positive fuse/battery connector just free floating behind the new battery? What did you use to cover the new + battery post? When the engine is running, is the intake system bumping into or against the battery?

I like the idea of being able to use a standard battery, but would really like to know all the issues...I have a 2009 Sport. Thanks.

Here is a good install
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...my-09-fit.html

My Fit battery lasted just under 8 years with the extreme service here in Montreal--that was pretty good, but I think my old Sears Diehard batteries in my past cars was always in the 10 to 12 year range--but they are bigger more powerful batteries. This little battery in the Fit seems undersized but got the job done all those years, whereas the replacement has not been up to the task. I need to see if it has a cold cranking rating on it, as it must be lower than it should be for this climate.

Initiate "Easy Mode."

Use a $50 Battery Tender Plus (Click Here) on whatever battery you have, 151R 340CCA or the 51R 500CCA "Shoe Horn" installation.

Puts whatever battery you have in a 5-year to 7-year to ???-year battery life range easily. ;)

(I do not work for or sell Battery Tender devices nor do I receive any compensation from the company. The product simply works. :thumbsup: )

My trickle charger did not help on the Canadian Tire battery--it seemed to boost the power at first, but it still did not have enough cranking power and after two more attempts was almost dead! That's why I'll likely replace the battery with a more powerful one, if I don't sell the car before then!

A Battery Tender differs significantly from a trickle charger. Use it on a new battery (as your eisting battery may be exhausted).

I guess I misunderstood--what does it do then? My current battery is one year old, and is, (in my opinion) not powerful enough to handle our winters here--how can this device help? What I really need is a battery that's up to the task at a reasonable price, so that I don;t need to worry about plugging in any other device, be it a block heater or a battery warmer, etc. After all I was spoiled before with the battery that came with the car, but I never imagined a replacement would be as inferior as the one I bought. So, now I'm looking at what might be better.

Rather than write a bunch of scientific jargon on these forums (I am a chemist by advanced degree in organic chemistry and electrochemistry:) ), I will simply state that a Battery Tender ensures you are 99% to 103% fully charged when you start your car in the morning. In addition, the manner in which a Battery Tender charges your 6-cell 12-volt lead-acid car battery will not only nearly double the life of the battery, it controls the battery's normal internal loses while it sits idle in your garage or driveway (float charging). Obviously you will need to attach the device to your car battery of an evening (20 second event).

You can use a Battery Tender or not (obviously your call) but the main advantages are more satisfactorily answered by the Battery Tender FAQ section than what I can state on these forums. It won't take you 15 minutes to read all of the questions and answers (if you are worried about time spent http://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/read.gif). Your specific questions are answered and explained.;)

LINK: Batter Tender FAQ (Click Here)


Battery Tender won't help an abused battery much but it conditions a new battery for much extended life and maximum charge (even through cold winters). Cheers!