Yep that is what I saw P2227 something about Barometric pressure system. Glad to hear it is being looked into.

TG just sent me a new map so I'll see if it does better.

Steven, The "block off plate" is just the top of the 5th injector mount. So you already have it! I just removed the fuel line hose fitting.

 

The second tune is much better! This tune switched to MAP controlled open loop and fueling was adjusted a bit too. Not quite all the power is back yet but it feels smoother already. Starting is quicker too.

It was a good feeling to gut that piggyback and 5th injector, after all that time I spent f**king around with it trying to get rid of those limp modes. Especially because I had 3 of them on Sunday in a 1 hour drive.

Here is a pic of how the Ktuned MAP plug looks and the relocated MAP sensor:

 

Hello!

Sorry for stupid question, but what do you mean by the term "limp mode"? (Is it CEL?)
With S/C i had something like random misfires when RPM is more than ~3000, do you have something like this?
How to fix it?
BTW: I fill the 98 octane.

This is great news, it is a pity that I can't use Ktuner since I have JDM honda fit.
Maybe somebody will prompt that I can make in this case to get rid of the 5th injector?

Sorry for bad english...

 

Immortal_BLG, Most Sprintex users in the US have had issues with SMT8L causing misfires and limp modes. I have seen them happen together and separately. A limp mode is a protective state the ecu enters that limits the RPM's to 3000 rpm until the car is restarted. The CEL indicator also flashes. The misfire codes are usually P0300 to P0304. These issues seem to happen to me during acceleration when merging to on-ramps and also are more common on days with drastic temperature changes. I never found a solution to this issue.

Hopefully you can find someone that can flash your JDM ECU.

 

Good to hear dude. I'm on my 12th revision I think, but a bunch of that was getting cranking trim down for the injectors.

I haven't been in a SMT8L car, so I can't tell you if it feels faster or slower, but it's pretty fun to drive.

The worst part is having a little taste of boost in the Fit makes me want a big turbo car again to go "actually" fast...

 

^ Why not do both!




I just stumbled upon this pic. Not sure about the project but I see an intercooler and a Sprintex, the caption said twincharged!

 

Just ordered Denso Japan 265lph Fuel Pump from the sole importer:
https://spdbydesign.com/product/dens...-in-fuel-pump/

at first I was thinking of getting Mitsubishi EVO OEM Fuel Pump (with less flow rate)
or
the DeatschWerks 265 LPH Compact Fuel Pump (but I think this one is Made in China),

and I prefer Denso Japan plus I think the DeatschWerks have slightly different style
of fitting outlet that create some problem when we try to use it for our Honda Fit (some extra O-Ring needed)... so I decided to buy this one...

I hope this one fit perfectly (from the pictures on subaru and GT-R forum it looks perfect for our application)...
this is in preparation for Sprintex Supercharger later...,
but I order now since I worry if someday the importer don't import this anymore...

 

As far as I can tell, even the EvoX pump is WAY overkill for this kit, I think you'll be fine. DW300c should fit as well and that flows 340LPH if you really want to crazy.

I paid like $50 for a used EvoX pump...

 

DUDE!!!!

I had to finally log back (been avoiding the forum for the last 7 months) in to say... that's a nice idea!

I had been thinking about this for a while and trying to source an plate to use, but if I can just stuff a chunk of rubber under that bracket with a shorter screw, I'll do it.

I'm hoping that blocking this off and switching to the factory fuel line for the injectors will solve the annoyance I get on first start from sitting a while... where it takes quite a bit longer to crank and finally start.

Maybe I can finally get that wire harness out of the car. Or maybe I need to find a plug for the boost sensor first... hum. Or rewire it as a connectable for the fic/6 whenever I decide to put that back in.

Incidentally, I'm still going piggyback-less (and no reflash either). I'll need to hit up a Honda dealer to get the actual knock count read (if any).... but I haven't had any misfire codes/limp mode during normal driving since I took out the SMT8-L (and swapped the fuel pump). Doesn't feel like I'm getting any knock, but then again, I don't think I'm that sensitive to (minor) knocking that's within the ECU's adaptable parameters. I can only tell if its really bad (from when I had a different car).

I mean, I did get one or two early on, but that was after really forcing the engine to rev high at speed for a while, far longer than I would ever do. Did this as a test.

 

My Denso 265lph Fuel Pump arrived today,
and this Denso have the right kind of outlet that I think will fit better,
because it do NOT have ribs, (on the second pictures below)
so the white spacer from our Honda Fit
fuel pump can be used and should not create a problem with
the O-Ring...
I think... not sure until I install it

 

The Torque app for android has a knock addon.. I bought a bluetooth adapter on amazon for like $10, allows me to monitor boost, engine temp and such on my phone (I have a mount).

Might be worth checking out...

Are you running on stock ecu with no tuning except for the addition of a fuel pump? That'd scare me.

 

Goobers, From what I have learned from tuning with Turbogixxer and Ktuner I understand how you are running without a tuning solution. The stock maps will not give you resolution in boost but probably run. Also even with my 410cc injector the highest duty cycle I have seen is 55%. With the injectors being about twice as big as the stock ones that probably puts you in a dangers territory when you get towards redline.

 

I'm not done tuning with Turbogixxer, but I can already report that the car is running better that ever before. Closed loop driving is much smoother, it was a bit surgey with the piggyback, and most backfires are gone too now. Open loop accelerates much faster, staying out of redline in the first two gears is tough. The only issue I am seeing now is the p2227 CEL, but it does not really effect driving and Ktunner and Turbogixxer are working on a solution. My first tank of gas yielded 29 mpg and that included a lot of hard driving for datalogs. And best part of all absolutely no limp modes or misfire CELs!

This CEL p2227 barometer error makes me wonder if it actually had something to do with the limp modes on the SMT8L. Because I only had them on days with drastic weather changes, especially in the fall and spring.

 

Does it matter that I have a DW265c fuel pump?

I tried thinking (and did type some) for my "defense," but ultimately, the reality is... the tuners are right in that I'll peak high at/near redline (as I've logged 101% at one point).

That said, for the time being, it hasn't presented any issues compared to how it was with the SMT8-L (even before it started to fry itself) and stock fuel pump, which was terrible.
Nah, not too big a fan of the Torque app (nor have I found an OBDII bluetooth adapter that didn't make me think "fishy"). I already have an Ultragauge plugged in and I like it.

 

Goobers, I suppose more fuel pressure could help you out. But I really don't know much about that. What do your fuel trims, and AFRs look like? You can see those on Ultragauge right?

Also if one was to plan on using the Torque app on a daily basis I would recommend an ODBlink MX or LX bluetooth adaptor. I have had much better luck with my MX that the cheapo ebay one I had before.

 

Several of you guys have upgraded your fuel pumps, but I have not been convinced it is necessary yet (but I understand doing it as a precaution).
The only flow numbers I could find were on OEM replacement pumps at 132-170 Lph. (FYI the CRZ is 200-246 Lph)

So how does one calculate the required Lph?
I found Deatschwerk has a calculator on their site:
Fuel Pump Calculator | Fuel Calculators | Resources | DeatschWerks

With the stock 185cc injectors we require 44 Lph
With the RDX 410cc injectors we require 98 Lph

Seems like either injector would be covered quite easily with the stock fuel pump. Am I missing something to this equation?

 

Oh yeah, I tried that calculator (and a few others) before I bought the pump and wondered the same thing. My guess is there's some detail we're missing or some assumption somewhere (in the calculators) isn't matching.

I can't, so won't, try to convince you one way or another about the fuel pump.

All I can say it that it helped me solve a particular issue.

But I guess that's just it... It solved a particular issue, that maybe one other person had, despite how many more people also have the same car and supercharger. And it was consistent misfires (and instant limp mode) if I hold high rpm (as little as 4 seconds at 4.5 k rpm in 4th). I unintentionally threw it EVERYDAY just driving to work, and have to constantly remind myself to avoid the trigger. Of course I know the trigger and can also intentionally do it whenever I want. I know others get misfire codes, but it seems for different conditions, harder to pinpoint/replicate repeatedly.

The only theory that appears to make sense (at least to me) is the fuel line just running out of pressure. And I think half of the issue was the piggyback. It could've been faulty from the start, but what ever the case, doing one OR the other (SMT8-L removal, pump replacement) only partially alleviated the problem. And only by doing both made it damn near impossible to me to even forcibly trigger the CEL/limp (seriously, who holds 5.5k rpm in 2nd or 4.5k in 4th for 15 seconds or more?!?).

So, that being the case, maybe a fuel pump won't benefit you in any way, even as a precaution. I definitely don't know enough to even think about it, let alone come to a decision.

The only real way to know is to log fuel pressure (and even the voltage going TO the fuel pump, in case the ECU is simply slowing it down) and other parameters for whatever condition(s) you are testing for.

~~~~~

My trims are generally lower than pre-swap (implying the pump is definitely forcing more fuel through the injectors). AFR (lambda) hovers around 1 (command and actual reading) and sometimes the commanded lambda does go as low as 0.937 during aggressive acceleration (which I'm assuming is triggering "boost").

I know folks want boosted lambda to be even lower (0.7-0.8) for various reasons. In terms of potential power from the "boost", whatever it is, is enough for me, for now. When I sort out how to deal with the firewall grommet, I'll play around with "extracting" more power.

The other potential is damage. I've been running it piggyback-less for just about a year already, so obvious it hasn't blown up on me. But if there's any excess wear/tear/fatigue, then we'll see when I go in for the 100k tuneup soon. Hopefully the mechanic will open up the engine enough to look at the combustion chamber and spot indicators, if any.

 

Are you still using the factory MAP sensor in the post-boost location?

What readings do you get from it?

 

I am using the stock MAP but it is relocated and connected to the SC the same place the Sprintex GM MAP was connected. So yes it is post boost, and it sees vacuum and boost up to about 8psi.

 

I see.

I wasn't sure what the MAP sensor range was. I had been under the impression it was a 1-bar sensor since I don't recall seeing more than 1 atmosphere on it.

But I guess that's due to the location.

I wonder how the factory ECU would react if I moved the sensor to post-boost/blower. Maybe trigger limp mode from the unexpectedly high psi... hopefully not worse than that (like blowing up the engine).