Here is another point to consider. The Sprintex supercharger supplementary injector is further upstream in the intake manifold near the throttle body. When fuel is injected into the intake manifold it should cool the intake air temperature making the air more dense. HP/TQ can be realize with this configuration. If you do decide to ditch the SMT8L for the AEM FIC 6, it would be nice to do some testing with and without the supplementary injector. That is one of the reason when/if I ditch the SMT8L I would look into water injection. IMHO water injection should not be view as a means for more HP/TQ. It is to help prevent detonation under boost.

Some of the features in the SMT8L can be found in a standalone EMS which I like. Tuning the SMT8L requires some more thoughts. It would be nice if the SMT8L has more of the AEM FIC 6 features and it ease of use and friendliness.

 

That is an awesome idea to use the port where that 5th injector is for water or meth injection. I was thinking if I did go that route of how I would plug it up, but if I used it for water or meth then there would be no need to cap it.

 

A 5th injector vs. 4 larger injectors essentially do the same thing---provide a larger orifice or opening for fuelling. From the fuel pump's perspective, a 5th injector or 4 bigger ones look the same. We aren't increasing fuel pressure, but providing an opportunity for more flow. Both fuelling options do the same thing.

I don't really know if the stock pump has issues with providing volume, pressure, or both. Considering the lower power level of these cars as stock, a 40% increase in power would be more taxing on a smaller pump no matter what. It doesn't matter if you have a supercharger, turbo, nitrous, or an elephant blowing into the intake tube. More air needs more fuel. WHEN we're providing the air is what I'm currently working with on our shop vehicle. It's not too taxing on the pump to provide a little more fuel on the low end. Guys with more airflow mods are running out of pump up top.

I have seen differences in charge air temperature wet vs. dry. Wet is usually 50F cooler. I was able to run midgrade gas on a boosteed Jeep XJ with its extra 550cc LS1 injector. When was the last time you heard "supercharger" and "midgrade gas" in the same sentence without "explosion"? An extra injector definitely has cooling benefits, but also drawbacks. Tuning is the chief challenge--the stock ECU needs the same fuel curves to run within spec, and getting the fuel curve right from the extra injector is indeed tricky. You get good atomization through the blower, but distribution among the cylinders can be problematic on larger engines. This particular combo likes it and that's what matters. Something else to consider is the low-end fuelling with an extra injector. The Sprintex unit has internal compression of about 1.4:1. If you spray too much fuel through the blower at too low of an rpm, then it can hydrolock the unit. That's why we set it up to only add fuel under boost or as manifold pressure transitions into boost.

I'm going a different route with working on a setup that is "as stock as possible". Our blower makes a couple of pounds of boost on the low end according to the SMT datalogs. Where the 5spd auto likes to "putt" is where I've been working on the mapping. Under vacuum, I left Jay's tuning alone. However, I'm trying to take advantage of the slight intake pressure at low rpm. From 1500-2200rpm in 5th is where it likes to cruise in traffic, locked up in gear and happily putting along. It will still see boost before it downshifts. Right there is where I'm adding just a little trickle of fuel and taking out a couple of degrees of timing.

Power up top is nice, but I need to clean up the middle a little more around 4,000rpm before vtec kicks in. So far, so good.

I see why you guys are so fanatical about these cars. They're fun to horse around with and really aren't scary at all. I want our particular combo to feel like an engine swap. 6psi is 40% more air over atmospheric. Thusly, the engine should feel 40% bigger---or about 2.1 liters instead of 1500. 8psi (without the restrictor) is 54% more air. That should feel more like a 2.3L. As you can see, we are not shooting for the moon.

 

I will definitely be interested in that map when you finish your tweaks Gary. I added up all my parts last night that I would LIKE to do and ended with a total of almost 3 grand which I cannot budget for at the moment so I will be staying stock for now. Also, with mine being an auto like the test car, i would definitely want to try out the new map when you are finished up.

At this point spending $3,000 on parts that will only net me about 25 more horsepower is not something I am ready to pull the trigger on.

I just wish I could find a local tuner for the SMT8 so that I could add an intake and better hear that glorious whine.

 

I've got the SMT8L map where I like it. The midrange is healthy and the top end screams. Mash it in the wet and traction control gets really angry . These stock tires won't last much longer at this rate.

Any idea why this engine likes so much timing advance under vtec with boost? I removed about 3 degrees below 3,000rpm where it sees boost. But, I added 8 degrees total up top and it feels like it wants more. The existing map as shipped has 6 (+2deg more in this map). The major difference is transitional and top end fuelling, but playing with top end timing a little bit really woke it up on the big end . The midrange has a healthy punch that carries very well onto the big cam.

 

Nice!!!!! I know it's still early, but is this close to the tune that will be submitted for CARB approval eventually? Hehe

 

Way too soon to know that!

 

I installed the Evo X fuel pump today after work. The Evo fuel pump dropped right in for plug and play. Car started up without any fuss, idles fine and drives the same as with the stock fuel pump. This weekend I will install the UEGO wideband O2 sensor and the AEM analog gauge. Hopefully next coming weekend the inlet restrictor will be gutted for a dyno tune that following Monday.

 

Anyone else having wheelspin issues? Ours just lights up the stock tires from a dig or a roll. I let out some front tire pressure and that didn't help. On the highway, exiting an on-ramp, it lights up coming out of corners.

 

Now you have the perfect reason to stick 245s or 265s under the front end!!

 

Is that really a problem? It could be fun!!! Just don't do it in front of the POLICE. Have you ever got a citation for exhibition for excess speed while driving under the speed limit of 30 mph?

 

If anything feels like a problem, it's the suspension. It feels one or two tweaks away from being sorted and still compliant.

Is yanking the front sway bar good or bad? This seems like a small car that likes wider lines. It doesn't transition very quickly.

 

What SCCA class would our blower bump you into? I haven't run in a few years and they changed the classes.

 

0-60 in the 6s. How about you?

 

Wow is the Sprintex test car that fast? My car doesn't feel that fast. A bit slow under 3000 rpm. Final drive gear could probably give it more life. It also doesn't help if my suspension is worn. I could hear creaking in the back when going over speed bumps. Time to upgrade the stock suspension with Bilstein PSS and get rid of the rear drum brake with the FastBrakes drum to disk conversion kit.

 

Ummm wow. I think we want that new map of yours. But since you are going to tweak it more. I guess we can wait. Lol

I actually ended up returning my intake to stock. For some reason after the new tune from Church, three days later, the car died out on me while on idle after driving. Not quite sure if it was their new tune or something is wrong with the injen intake, or my oem fuel pump is not big enough to handle the extra hp.

 

I sent the new map to a couple of you, but nobody has tried it out yet.

"Right click, save as" in the "c:\tune_mapfiles" directory.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...oct%20v1.0.LDC

See if you have a bad ground on your harness. Jiggle the harness and tap the box at idle and see if it dies. Ours did that until I made a new, beefier harness. If you plug and unplug the harness a bunch, the pins don't seem to hold their rigid shape. I've redone mine and Steven redid his. We haven't had any electrical problems since. Church knows what he's doing. A specific, custom map is always best.

Dielectric grease also helps hold everything together inside the plug. With the new pins I picked up from Mouser Electronics, it can handle being worked on repeatedly. p/n 538-39-00-0060. Supply chain management is the 1,000lb gorilla in my room. Tuning is relatively easy compared to herding cats .

I don't hoon our company car. I've got hours of cruising footage and a few 0-60 runs. Nothing really exciting or groundbreaking, though. You can plainly see the wheelspin via the bouncing tach. I try not to be a jerk driving it around. There's nothing to really prove or show off.

 

My mechanic checked it, it's nothing electrical. It came down to the new tune, intake, or fuel pump not big enough to handle the extra hp. After returning the stock intake and the old church file, he tested it for a whole week. No issues after it was returned to the original church tune and stock intake. At that point I just wanted the car to work. Once I get a second car, I'll start messing around with it again.

 

Here's a run through the first 3 gears.

 

Were you able to locate a low mileage Evo X fuel pump on the Mitsubishi Evolution X Forum? The going price is about $60. Installation isn't bad just as long as you remember to properly seat the o-ring onto the fuel pump outlet. I had to pull the Evo X fuel pump out twice because the o-ring was being pushed too far into the fuel pump assembly outlet. Fuel was not being push out and there was no fuel pressure. Testing the Evo X fuel pump was no fun with a ¼ of a bucket of fuel and the fuel pump with assembly connected to AC/DC 12 volts 1 amp inverter.

My car ran fine without the Evo X pump using the Church Automotive map with my DIY intake and T1R exhaust pipe. The Evo X pump is a precaution in preparation for the gutted inlet and a dyno tune. I am running lean up top at high RPM.

Installing the AEM UEGO analog gauge will be fun as well. I will need to remove the factory radio to get to the 24 pin connector to tap into the pin 1 for the dash light brightness controller. It would be cool for the AEM analog gauge to dim along with the dash and the radio.