My JDM CR-Z Mugen AirBox
u are a brave man to dremel a perfectly fine carbon piece. now your job is not done breaking into the carbon fiber weave. u need to get some clear coat epoxy resin and you need to wet the exposed fibers to reseal them. otherwise moisture will get inside the fabric and destroy your mugen piece.
oh well... hahaha...
Thanks for the tips Ryu,...
now I need to get clear coat epoxy resin...
any tips on where to buy them from?
Thanks
here's a cheap one
Epoxy Resin 32oz Kit Crystal Clear for Tabletops and Clear Coating | eBay
you don't need much at all.
Epoxy Resin 32oz Kit Crystal Clear for Tabletops and Clear Coating | eBay
you don't need much at all.
I have a question for you
I'm interested in doing the crz stock airbox setup but wanted to know about that snorkel piece that runs from the box to the grill. Can you share the part details?
I have been searching bernardi but am having a hard time, and ebay results are useless.
Thanks!
I have been searching bernardi but am having a hard time, and ebay results are useless.
Thanks!
Look at BernardiParts online catalog for CR-Z and look
at this section:
ELECTRICAL / EXHAUST / HEATER / FUEL :
RESONATOR CHAMBER
I just plug the connection that suppose to go to the resonator chamber.
"Adding an expansion chamber to the intake tube forces air coming back out of the engine to slow down to fill the cavity, thus expending a great deal of its energy and slowing the pressure wave reversion. This slowdown allows fresh air to flow toward the engine without fighting pressure reversion waves the entire way, thus aiding in cylinder filling. Since these pressure waves are essentially sound, giving them a place to expend their energy before exiting the air filter box ends up dampening the intake noise and quieting the engine. Thus, the resonator helps to make the engine paradoxically quieter and more powerful."
Source: Air Intake Resonator
Having the piece route to the resonator chamber actually may help with extra power.
"Adding an expansion chamber to the intake tube forces air coming back out of the engine to slow down to fill the cavity, thus expending a great deal of its energy and slowing the pressure wave reversion. This slowdown allows fresh air to flow toward the engine without fighting pressure reversion waves the entire way, thus aiding in cylinder filling. Since these pressure waves are essentially sound, giving them a place to expend their energy before exiting the air filter box ends up dampening the intake noise and quieting the engine. Thus, the resonator helps to make the engine paradoxically quieter and more powerful."
Source: Air Intake Resonator
"Adding an expansion chamber to the intake tube forces air coming back out of the engine to slow down to fill the cavity, thus expending a great deal of its energy and slowing the pressure wave reversion. This slowdown allows fresh air to flow toward the engine without fighting pressure reversion waves the entire way, thus aiding in cylinder filling. Since these pressure waves are essentially sound, giving them a place to expend their energy before exiting the air filter box ends up dampening the intake noise and quieting the engine. Thus, the resonator helps to make the engine paradoxically quieter and more powerful."
Source: Air Intake Resonator
unfortunately the design (mounting) of CR-Z Intake Resonator only fit for the CR-Z body, so I think it will be too much trouble to incorporate that into Honda Fit...

Keep up the good work.
So I purchased a crz airbox and snorkel but will likely have to hit up a hardware store for clamps and what not (purchased both off ebay). I haven't seen many pics of your original setup before you upgraded to your badass mugen airbox, so I apologize for the questions I keep throwing your way.
But I have two more
1) what did you use to plug up the outlet to the resonator chamber?
2) will the fit brackets work with the crz box (fingers crossed)
Thanks!
But I have two more

1) what did you use to plug up the outlet to the resonator chamber?
2) will the fit brackets work with the crz box (fingers crossed)
Thanks!
So I purchased a crz airbox and snorkel but will likely have to hit up a hardware store for clamps and what not (purchased both off ebay). I haven't seen many pics of your original setup before you upgraded to your badass mugen airbox, so I apologize for the questions I keep throwing your way.
But I have two more
1) what did you use to plug up the outlet to the resonator chamber?
2) will the fit brackets work with the crz box (fingers crossed)
Thanks!
But I have two more

1) what did you use to plug up the outlet to the resonator chamber?
2) will the fit brackets work with the crz box (fingers crossed)
Thanks!
I actually bought the CR-Z airbox as a complete set but it is not new.
I bought it from a member here who had put it on his HOnda Fit.
You need to buy the bracket that connect the crz box to the engine block.
there is another bracket that should connect the crz airbox to the transmission housing but that bracket is not available for sale some how...
so I just custom make an "Extension" bracket to hold the crz airbox in place...
the guy who sell me the airbox already had a custom bracket for the snorkel and he gave me that bracket

Now the resonator plug were also given by that guy ,
he use some kind of elastic plastic cap and just tie lock it in place...
I don't know where he get it...
perhaps you can utilize some kind of PCV pipe (plumbing) cap...
here's a cheap one
Epoxy Resin 32oz Kit Crystal Clear for Tabletops and Clear Coating | eBay
you don't need much at all.
Epoxy Resin 32oz Kit Crystal Clear for Tabletops and Clear Coating | eBay
you don't need much at all.
Lucky!
Hello,
I actually bought the CR-Z airbox as a complete set but it is not new.
I bought it from a member here who had put it on his HOnda Fit.
You need to buy the bracket that connect the crz box to the engine block.
there is another bracket that should connect the crz airbox to the transmission housing but that bracket is not available for sale some how...
so I just custom make an "Extension" bracket to hold the crz airbox in place...
the guy who sell me the airbox already had a custom bracket for the snorkel and he gave me that bracket
Now the resonator plug were also given by that guy ,
he use some kind of elastic plastic cap and just tie lock it in place...
I don't know where he get it...
perhaps you can utilize some kind of PCV pipe (plumbing) cap...
I actually bought the CR-Z airbox as a complete set but it is not new.
I bought it from a member here who had put it on his HOnda Fit.
You need to buy the bracket that connect the crz box to the engine block.
there is another bracket that should connect the crz airbox to the transmission housing but that bracket is not available for sale some how...
so I just custom make an "Extension" bracket to hold the crz airbox in place...
the guy who sell me the airbox already had a custom bracket for the snorkel and he gave me that bracket

Now the resonator plug were also given by that guy ,
he use some kind of elastic plastic cap and just tie lock it in place...
I don't know where he get it...
perhaps you can utilize some kind of PCV pipe (plumbing) cap...
I was hoping you could take a better pic of the bracket for the snorkel for inspiration....I see some packing foam and tape but would like to see how it is fitting and to where so I can have a better idea on what I need to get from home Depot and autozone.....thanks for your help...
yes ur right. but it will be the edges only, no need to step cure high temp resin.
Bracket?
Good for you to have gotten the complete set with brackets...
I was hoping you could take a better pic of the bracket for the snorkel for inspiration....I see some packing foam and tape but would like to see how it is fitting and to where so I can have a better idea on what I need to get from home Depot and autozone.....thanks for your help...
I was hoping you could take a better pic of the bracket for the snorkel for inspiration....I see some packing foam and tape but would like to see how it is fitting and to where so I can have a better idea on what I need to get from home Depot and autozone.....thanks for your help...
Could you pm me the pics?

The bracket to hold the snorkel is in the pic above,
it is just a steel plated (powder coated by previous owner of the CR-Z box) and then attached on top of the radiator. I put some (silver) sound deadening to prevent it from rattling.
It suppose to be able to be fix permanently to one of the holes there but I decided not too, since it will put it further rearward and a bit lower... and further from fresh air
3 days ago, the installer who install my hood vinyl wrap said,
your entire engine bay looks so nice, except this snorkel which kinda hangin to nothing...
I told him, I need to flip it up whenever I need to get the stick to hold the hood...
He said, well you don't have to button it down, just do a bend/curved bracket below the stick...
at that time, I don't really think about it...
but when I got home, his words keep playing on my brain...
so I said... hmmm he is right, I already try my best for the rest of the engine bay,
but I do a half hearted job for this intake snorkel...
I then go down to my garage and open the hood and start to think for a solution to this...
The bend/curved bracket below the stick won't work due to space limitation...
Then I see that I can easily adjust the "feet" that I make about 90 degree counterclockwise from on top of the radiator hose to on top of the gap between the radiator and the frame, plus I can add some spacer to make it taller so now the entire snorkel will sit higher and can get more direct air flow too
After I did this then I see that it still bobble side by side and the right side which do not have any feet is kinda slanted...
so I decide to make a bracket on the center parts goes to the frame,
the frame have tiny little hole that I can stick a tiny bolt into as an anchor...
note that this tiny bolt is only acting like a feet that anchor into the holes but not bolted to that holes on the frame, so I can just flip up the snorkel up, anytime I need to get the stick to hold the hood...
sounds confusing... Yeah... I am confuse too hahaha
but here is the pictures, hopefully it explain better:
First pictures show the upper bolt that hold the straight bracket,
the lower bolt is the one that just stick into the holes on the frame as an anchor:

This second pictures show from the side how that tiny bolt anchor down to the frame,
and if you look near the radiator, you will also see the other bracket that act as another feet with rubber bottom that stand on top of the gap between the radiator and the frame:

Here is frontal view, notice how much higher the intake snorkel now sit compare to the frame, while before the intake snorkel were at about same height as the frame... this higher position actually allow the snorkel to be
on more direct path of the incoming air flow came out of the intake duct from the front grill, so this is also better for getting cold air into the engine:

Notice I also peel out the ugly sound dampener that I use before to make it heavier so it won't move around much/vibrate/rattle...now I don't need those ugly sound dampener because the intake snorkel is secured in its place
your entire engine bay looks so nice, except this snorkel which kinda hangin to nothing...
I told him, I need to flip it up whenever I need to get the stick to hold the hood...
He said, well you don't have to button it down, just do a bend/curved bracket below the stick...
at that time, I don't really think about it...
but when I got home, his words keep playing on my brain...
so I said... hmmm he is right, I already try my best for the rest of the engine bay,
but I do a half hearted job for this intake snorkel...

I then go down to my garage and open the hood and start to think for a solution to this...
The bend/curved bracket below the stick won't work due to space limitation...
Then I see that I can easily adjust the "feet" that I make about 90 degree counterclockwise from on top of the radiator hose to on top of the gap between the radiator and the frame, plus I can add some spacer to make it taller so now the entire snorkel will sit higher and can get more direct air flow too
After I did this then I see that it still bobble side by side and the right side which do not have any feet is kinda slanted...
so I decide to make a bracket on the center parts goes to the frame,
the frame have tiny little hole that I can stick a tiny bolt into as an anchor...
note that this tiny bolt is only acting like a feet that anchor into the holes but not bolted to that holes on the frame, so I can just flip up the snorkel up, anytime I need to get the stick to hold the hood...
sounds confusing... Yeah... I am confuse too hahaha

but here is the pictures, hopefully it explain better:
First pictures show the upper bolt that hold the straight bracket,
the lower bolt is the one that just stick into the holes on the frame as an anchor:

This second pictures show from the side how that tiny bolt anchor down to the frame,
and if you look near the radiator, you will also see the other bracket that act as another feet with rubber bottom that stand on top of the gap between the radiator and the frame:

Here is frontal view, notice how much higher the intake snorkel now sit compare to the frame, while before the intake snorkel were at about same height as the frame... this higher position actually allow the snorkel to be
on more direct path of the incoming air flow came out of the intake duct from the front grill, so this is also better for getting cold air into the engine:

Notice I also peel out the ugly sound dampener that I use before to make it heavier so it won't move around much/vibrate/rattle...now I don't need those ugly sound dampener because the intake snorkel is secured in its place
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Sep 25, 2016 at 07:24 PM.
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