Here ye Here ye! Read all about it.

We have an update!

Here are the pics.

As you can see, the shaft of my Yakima Bike Rack is longer than both of the other 1/4" shafts that I had laying around. (Please note that it still fit in my Draw Tight hitches installed on previous cars.)


Both the Yakima (in gold) and other 1/4" shaft that actually fits (in black):




Yakima:





Other 1/4" shaft:






Buddy of mine cutting the Yakima with an angle grinder:






End result (it fits fine now).:






I will take a few pics with a bike or two on as well when I get a chance.


Thank you all for the advise. This thread actually kinda fun.

 

Excellent. Just be mindful that you are using a class 2 accessory on a class 1 hitch, and keep the tongue weight within specs, and you are good to go. Should not be a problem with your bike rack, but those steel platform racks that they sell for SUVs are wicked heavy.

 

Well said. I would steer clear of the platform. Too much going on back there. You've shortened the receiving lever arm a bit - the numbers are up. Pivot wants to be as close to the bumper as comfortable.

Great shot of the 'cutter'_

 

Where did you find that hitch riser?? I need one!

 

as it has been stated above, the reason for the indentation is to prevent class 2 products from being used on a class 1 hitch. All class 1 hitches have that indentation. That's why I went with a light weight Kuat and sold my softride carrier.

 

I PMed you the info pertaining to where I bought my riser. Feel free to let me know if I can help further.

 

holy shit you DO realize that that is a terrible idea, right? that much weight, that far from the hitch.

 

also, id just drill out the dimple on the hitch

 

I know this thread is old, but I just thought I'd add my experience to help anyone who has this problem.

I had the same tab problem on my hitch, and my new Yakima bike rack wouldn't fit far enough in to properly attach it. I used a center punch on the tab on the hitch, then drilled it with a small drill bit, then slowly went up in size to almost 3/8" diameter until the tab fell off/disappeared. It worked perfectly.

I figured I'd rather drill out the tab in a $100 hitch than cut up my nice new Yakima rack that cost $350. The Yakima bike rack part was solid 1-1/4" steel, not tubular, so if the tab drilling didn't work, I'd be in for some serious grinding...either a notch to clear the tab, or cut the end off the rack part. Either way, none of those options would be as easy as drilling the tab off the hitch.

 

Old post but i had the same damn problem trying to use a Yakima "Stick-up" bike rack on my hitch. I ended up dremmeling a small notch on my yakima snout just enough to pass that stopper.

This is the rack i have

 

I found a hitch mounted carrier made for an ATV at harbor freight for 39.99 w/coupon its perfect for the fit as it has a built in lift to it to help prevent scraping, you will need an 1 1/4 to 2" adapter, but its a real nice size for the small car 48 x 22 I believe