Need help with adding new speakers and sub in 2013 LX
 

Hi all -- New member here. I want to improve the sound of the factory audio setup but don't have a lot of money to spend ($300-500). I'm guessing that the best thing I can do is install a sub and perhaps replace the door speakers. I'm looking for any advice on what sub(s) to consider, and whether I really need to replace the door speakers. Also, do I need to use a sub + amp or will an ordinary sub do? And where can the sub go so that I don't have to give up space in the trunk? I've read about subs that fit under the front passenger seat and a Pioneer sub that bolts to the spare tire rim in the trunk. Are these subs any good? I realize I'm not going to get high end sound with my budget -- just looking for the best option for that money. Thanks all!

Do have factory navigation?

Id you add a sub you need an amp to power it. Under the seat options are nice and you are closer to the power source for running cables. The spare tire subs are suppose to be pretty decent. You wont need much power 200-300W is plenty in my opinion. I ran an 8" sub in my Civic and it sounded great without shaking the car apart.

I just did the poor mans audio upgrade:

Total spent was $261.75 in components! Since I used my credit card miles, out of pocket was nothing. Sounds pretty dang good to me. If you're an audiophile, you may want to spend more. It's good enough for me! :cool:

They have self powered subs where it's a sub/amp combo

Hi GolNat -- No I don't have the nav system. No tweeters either.

2Rismo2 -- Thanks a ton for sharing your set up. Good to hear it has worked fantastic for you. Did you not have to install an amp to power all of that? Someone (plus GolNat now) was telling me that the factory head unit isn't powerful enough to drive anything more than the Rockford Fosgates, and even then it should really have an external amp. Also, can you elaborate on your trunk setup for the sub? Was there room between the wood floor and the top of the spare tire for your sub after it was (I assume) screwed to the underside of the wood? And how did you run the wiring from (where ?) to the sub? I'm not much of a car DIYer so I'm looking for an easy install.

The sub that was linked has an internal amplifier. A traditional sub needs an external amp to run it. That one that 2Rismo2 linked is pretty nice and makes install easier.

The factory headunit can only put out so much power. You can hook up a 200w speaker to it and it's only going to put out factory power (generally low, like 30w). The door speakers don't need a amplifier but would benefit from more power.

I haven't done the false floor in the trunk yet, but if you click on the action Jackson link in my post it'll take you to his thread where he has some pictures. Yes u will be screwing the amp to the bottom of the wood. There should be room as the amp is very low profile.

The factory head unit should be able to power traditional door speakers adequately. The higher end speakers you may want to use a dedicated amp, but I was going for inexpensive.

The wiring runs along the channels near the door frame.

Thank you both for the additional info. 2Rismo2, sorry I didn't check the links yesterday -- that's what I get for rushing. Action Jackson's set-up is impressive. I wonder how much weight the 3/4" plywood adds to the car? He didn't say anything about that.

About the factory HU's power, I've seen it described as 160 watts, but I assume that's peak power. What would the RMS power be and are you sure it would be enough to power the Rockford Fosgate door speakers?

About the sub, I'm wondering how much of the sound is going to reach the cabin from under the cargo floor and whether it'll be muffled. I didn't see anything about this on Action Jackson's thread. Also, can the sub be wired to the rear door speakers or does it need to go to the head unit? Sorry, I know almost nothing about electrical stuff. I suspect it has to go to the head unit because the sub needs power, not just sound signals.

Also wondering if your Fit already has tweeters that you're replacing with the new ones? My car doesn't have tweeters, and I'm wondering how easy or hard it will be to install tweeters in what I assume are "roughed in" holes with grills in the front corners of the dash? Unless it would be easy to install the weeters, I would probably have to go with 3-way speakers in the doors and hope the highs reach up from the floor. Any thoughts on this?

One more question -- have you or are you planning to add any sound-deadening insulation to your doors so that the sound system can be heard better?

Thanks so much!

Need help with adding new speakers and sub in 2013 LX
 

I'm posting this again because my original isn't showiung up in the thread:

Thank you both for the additional info. 2Rismo2, sorry I didn't check the links yesterday -- that's what I get for rushing. Action Jackson's set-up is impressive. I wonder how much weight the 3/4" plywood adds to the car? He didn't say anything about that.

About the factory HU's power, I've seen it described as 160 watts, but I assume that's peak power. What would the RMS power be and are you sure it would be enough to power the Rockford Fosgate door speakers?

About the sub, I'm wondering how much of the sound is going to reach the cabin from under the cargo floor and whether it'll be muffled. I didn't see anything about this on Action Jackson's thread. Also, can the sub be wired to the rear door speakers or does it need to go to the head unit? Sorry, I know almost nothing about electrical stuff. I suspect it has to go to the head unit because the sub needs power, not just sound signals.

Also wondering if your Fit already has tweeters that you're replacing with the new ones? My car doesn't have tweeters, and I'm wondering how easy or hard it will be to install tweeters in what I assume are "roughed in" holes with grills in the front corners of the dash? Unless it would be easy to install the weeters, I would probably have to go with 3-way speakers in the doors and hope the highs reach up from the floor. Any thoughts on this?

One more question -- have you or are you planning to add any sound-deadening insulation to your doors so that the sound system can be heard better?

Thanks so much!

Don't be bashful. Just ask.

The 3/4" Pine boards adds maybe a few pounds. But factor in removing the useless Styrofoam blocks and OEM cover and it's only still a few pounds. I highly recommend the Pine as there is still zero flex to this day.

With that setup, it's a sub and it wasn't in an airtight space. It sounded pretty much the same if not a bit better under the pine board.

With the OEM head unit, there is more bass directed to the rear speakers, so if you want to, tap into the rears to keep things simple, assuming that they take speaker level inputs.

Sound reduction really helps me reduce the amount of volume adjustment that I needed to do during driving, plus you don't have to listen to it as that loud to over come driving noise.

I'm not a car audio guy, but your head unit would probably be good enough to power RF speakers. Go to Crutchfield and the have a pretty good wizard that shows which speakers are recommended. Another benefit is Crutchfield included the speaker harness and adapters to mount the speakers into the existing locations all for FREE.

The KSC-SW11 can tap into the rear door speakers for audio signal. It'll need power to the battery (yellow wire), and also a remote power on signal (blue) to tell the sub to power on when the car is turned on. Mounted under the wood floor shouldn't present too much of a problem. It's harder to pinpoint the direction of bass and the wood may amplify it a bit.

Yes my car did have tweeters so I just wired them into that. The tweeters I got came with a dome to surface mount them if you wanted to go with that option. You'd probably need a crossover to send specific audio signals to the tweeters if you're branching off the door speakers. In all honesty, getting a 3-way speaker might just be easier for you.

I've thought about a bit of sound insulation, but the Fit is my commuter car so I'm not going to do anything too crazy.

Hey, thanks for the additional info Action Jackson and 2Rismo2!

I'm going to forget about the tweeters and make do with 3-way door speakers. There's no way I can DIY the wiring to the front of the dash, and the prospect of adding a "crossover" (which I don't even know what it would look like, how to connect it or where it needs to go) scares me. ;-)

Action Jackson, was there any trick to how you cut the back of your wood floor to match the shape of the back of the trunk area?

Does anyone out there know if the rear door speakers " take speaker level inputs"? I don't know how to tell.

2Rismo2, does Crutchfield provide or have available wiring instructions for the sub? I haven't got the foggiest idea how to wire it to the battery. For example, does the sub's power wiring have to go through the engine wall or is there some way to tap into the battery from inside the cabin?

And it sounds like the remote power signal needs to go between the battery and the sub. Does it require buying an extra gizmo or does it come with the sub?

BTW, 2Rismo2, is there any trick to getting the sub wiring from the rear door speakers back to the trunk area?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with either the Rockford Fosgate R165X3 3-way speakers (just reduced from $70 to $40) or the Pioneer TS-A652F's ($70) plus the KSC-SW11 sub and build Action Jackson's trunk floor, but I'll wait till Spring when it's a bit warmer outside. I live in Canada and the thought of installing all this stuff when it's freezing outside "leaves me cold"!

I have a rear mat that I will be using as a template for cutting out the wood floor.

The sub is what you'll need to take into account if it takes speaker level inputs. The KSC-SW11 I used does.

Check out Crutchfield, they do have the PDF of the install directions for the KSC-SW11. When you buy speakers from them, they will also send you the master sheet for your car which has the wiring diagram.

The power cable in my setup does go to the battery and through the firewall. The KSC-SW11 is low draw that you can tap into the fuse box internally that can support 10 amps, but it's probably better to go to the battery. The power on wire went into the fuse box, tapping into a fuse that is powered only when the car is on.

The wiring can go into the channels near the bottom of the floor by the doors. It's covered in plastic.

I don't like working in the cold either! Plus plastics are more brittle in the cold and would hate to crack something.

I am just now reading this thread..i wonder if any of you guys that did the upgrades have any photo's? It would be great to get a visual of how things look exactly in your Fit.

cheers.

There are some pictures, but not much sprinkled on my rambling thread starting on this post:

2RISMO2 - Commuter Life Chronicles

This is on a GK though just so you're aware...

Thanks, 2Rismo2. I will definitely buy from Crutchfield for their extra service, especially help with wiring to the battery and fuse box, which makes me a bit nervous. You've been very helpful, along with Action Jackson. Cheers!

What part of Canada are you in, imaginator?

I'd suggest using the OEM mat and trace a bigger outline. The pine boards that I used were pretty close to ideal size, so I didn't have to trim and cut at much, compared to the wider plywood that I originally used.

Action Jackso, I'm in the Toronto area.

BTW, if anyone has any tips on how and where to put the sb's power line thru the firewall and how to connect it to the battery and fuse box, I'm all ears...just in case Crutchfield doesn't go into enough detail.

Thanks!

Crutchfield isn't going to be particular detailed, it'll have general information. Typically there will be a rubber grommet from the firewall into the cabin because of the stock wiring harness. Just use the same entry way.

AJ - thanks for the tips!

Thanks (yet again), 2Rismo2. Should I ask whereabouts the grommet is roughly or will I be able to find it easily?

And once I get the wiring through the firewall, where/how exactly do you connect it to the battery? The only connections I've ever seen on a battery are the terminals on top but I guess there must be a harness or something somewhere else on the battery. Do I have to be careful where I connect the sub wiring? Do I need to take the battery out to get at the wiring location? Are there any specific connectors needed or do I just splice in? And what about the connection to the fuse box?

Sorry about asking even more questions.