Battery died now in-dash computer doesn't turn on?
 

I have a '13 Fit and my battery died and I had to jump start it a few months ago. Since then my in-dash computer, an AVIC 8000NEX doesn't turn on and the USB port in the glove box doesn't provide any power. Is there some sort of fuse or circuit breaker that has been tripped? I'm bad at cars and have no idea where to look.

Thanks for any pointers.

Nick

Make sure you still get a switched 12v feed and the ground is good. If both are functional, problem is in the radio

Is this what you mean? I have a multimeter - but I can't tell how this guy is probing fuses. I pulled all my 30A and 20A fuses and they looked intact. I'm super amateur when it comes to electrical and car anything.

I would find the power in feed and ground on the back of this computer you're talking about. The harness should have a multitude of pins. If you still have the instructions that would help tremendously identifying pins. So whichever pin is ground and whichever is switched power, probe both of those and flick the key on. If you get power that eliminates it being a problem with a circuit in the car, seeing as your switched power is good and ground is good to make continuity.

Looking at fuses is sort of a broad way of looking at things. Yes checking whichever circuit it's on will help but if it's a subsystem that's fried internally on your dash computer your fuse would still look good, but you won't have power.

You don't have to pull fuses to check them. On the face of each fuse in our cars, you will find two very small dimples/holes in the face of the fuse. Each hole is above the leg of that side of the fuse. You can use a simple electrical test light to check each fuse. These test lights can be found at any auto parts store for a couple of dollars. Attach the clamp for the test light to a good ground. Some fuses turn on with the ignition switch and the others are hot all the time. Turn your ignition to the on position so all fuses are powered up. Next use the electrical probe of the test light to check both sides of all the fuses. Each fuse has a supply side and a demand side for a circuit. The test light uses the power running through the fuses to light itself up. If only one side of the fuse lights the test light, and the other side doesn't, then the fuse is bad. Double check any fuse not lighting up on both legs of the fuse to confirm you have a good reading. Always replace a fuse with the same amperage rating as the original fuse.