Going to try this again since I had trouble getting the video attached last time.

I’ve been trying to find the rattle in my Fit for a long time. Watch and more importantly listen to the video. It sounds like it’s coming from the front of the vehicle. The road is pretty good with mostly cracks in the pavement. I do tow this car behind my motorhome. If tried the following with no luck:

1. put pipe insulation/foam around anything I can find that might rattle and drove around
2. checked tow bar baseplate bolts and they are tight and drove around
3. removed the front end/bumper cover and drove around
4. removed all plastic covers from underneath and drove around
5. Removed side ground effects (not sure what they’re called) and drove around
6. checked top front strut mounts, they were tight, and drove around
7. Lastly, completely removed sway bar end links, put pipe insulation around sway bar and drove around

Any thoughts as to what might be rattling? It does seem to be getting worse so I’m thinking it’s a wear type problem.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...mg_2912-3-.mov

 

I listened to the video several times, both on speaker and with headphones.

The only sound I could really hear seemed to be the typical "economy car going over expansion joints" noise that I've heard in the many cheap used cars (Dodge Shadow, Ford Escort, Honda Fit, Hyundai Accent, Pontiac Grand Am, Toyota Yaris) I've driven over the past 25 years.

On the Fit in particular, there seems to be road noise transmission into the cabin because the front struts mounts are basically underneath the front edge of the windshield.

1) How old is your Fit? How many miles?
2) Can you clarify if this noise is new or has it occurred since you got the car?
3) How does the noise relate to road imperfections? When you drive over an expansion joint do you hear the noise once (or twice because of the two axles) or multiple times?
4) Can you isolate the noise to one side of the car or the other?
5) If your car is older or has high miles, have you done any maintenance to the suspension, such as replacing shocks or bushings, or had an alignment? What are the condition of your tires? If you have a bad shock/strut, or a badly cupped tire, you might get a noise like what I'm hearing in your video.

 

Thanks for the reply Drew21. I wish I could post a longer video, but was restricted to 5mb size.

1) How old is your Fit? How many miles? 2013 bought new in August 2012 with 105k miles
2) Can you clarify if this noise is new or has it occurred since you got the car? Been getting progressively worse the last several years
3) How does the noise relate to road imperfections? When you drive over an expansion joint do you hear the noise once (or twice because of the two axles) or multiple times? Seems to be most notable when crossing small imperfections. My neighborhood road has lots of cracks that are just cracks, not potholes or pavement pushed up. It seems to be limited to front axle
4) Can you isolate the noise to one side of the car or the other? Nope
5) If your car is older or has high miles, have you done any maintenance to the suspension, such as replacing shocks or bushings, or had an alignment? What are the condition of your tires? If you have a bad shock/strut, or a badly cupped tire, you might get a noise like what I'm hearing in your video. No suspension maintenance, everything seems ok with suspension. New tires and alignment. Tires that were taken off had right at 50k miles with no unusual wear.

 

I think your next step would be a detailed examination of the front suspension components. If you're mechanically inclined you can do it yourself, but it's easier and more efficient on a lift which may argue for a visit to a trusted mechanic.

Suspension degradation can happen quickly (e.g., massive pothole or what we call "roads" where I live) or over time. After ten years and 100K miles, even on good roads, it's likely most of the components of your suspension (e.g., struts, ball joints, bushings...) are at least somewhat worn. When it happens gradually it's difficult to recognize or notice, because you can't directly compare the handling and ride of the car today to how it felt when it was new.

 

Think I have the same exact rattle. Sounds like running over a slightly loose manhole cover. Only one wheel will make the noise when hit, independent from the other. Speed bumps and other instances in which both wheels hit at the same time do not make the noise. I just replaced my upper shock mounts with no luck. Sway bar end links next.

 

Thanks for the reply GrE8_Fit. I’ve completely removed both end links and put pipe foam around the sway bar and still got the noise.

 

Yeah I lost hope when you mentioned your end links test. But they are bad, regardless, so I might as well.

Don't worry, bud. We'll get to the bottom of this.

 

So was driving through the neighborhood last night listening to the rattle. Seems like when I hit the brakes during the rattle, it stopped rattling. Is there anything about the brakes that could cause this noise? Maybe pressing the brakes caused pressure to be applied somewhere else that stopped the rattle?

 

When you apply the brakes it can take the slack out of worn suspension components, which might cause certain noises to stop.

As for the front brakes themselves, you've got the rotor, the caliper and caliper bracket, the brake pads, and the dust shield.

I don't think it's possible for the rotor to rattle because it's held on by the wheel; hopefully you would notice if your wheel was about to fall off. The caliper, caliper bracket, or dust shield could potentially rattle if loose. I guess the pads could make noise if they were worn away and not engaging with the rotor, but you would have hopefully noticed. Obviously it's not safe if any of your brake components are loose or damaged.

However, in an earlier reply you said the noise has been getting progressively worse over years, so probably not a brake problem as you have (hopefully) serviced or at least inspected your brakes within that period. I still vote for worn suspension components.

If you're a DIY person you can check out the brake and suspension. It's easiest if you get the car off the ground on a lift or jack stands. Alternatively, an experienced mechanic could check it out quickly and efficiently for you. They know where to push, pull, pry, and shake to evaluate the different brake and suspension components.

Regardless of where the noise is coming from it's in your best interest to get it diagnosed and fixed. If it's nothing serious you don't have to worry about it any longer. If it is serious, you can get it fixed and not endanger yourself or others on the road. I've seen more than a few cars (actually, trucks mostly) lose front wheel assemblies while driving down the road because they ignored the noises associated with worn ball joints or wheel bearings. Preventative maintenance is almost always cheaper (and definitely safer) than waiting for parts to fail.

 

Thanks for the reply Drew21. I replaced the pads and rotors myself a year or so ago and they still look good. I was just trying to think out of the box and didn't really think it was brakes as I've checked them multiple times. I've got to do an oil change in the next week or so so I will be under the car and do some more looking. If I can't find anything this time, I'll have to bite the bullet and let a real mechanic take a look. I just hate paying $100+ an hour for something that I can do myself if I can just figure out what is actually causing the noise. I guess that's why they make the big bucks!

 

Heyo. Haven't listened to your sound clips but did read through the thread pretty thoroughly. Descrip. reminded me of a ford I serviced recently. had replaced some suspension components and the service manual called for everything to be torqued while floating/not compressed by vehicle weight. it was an escape, and the manufacturer relied on the lower control arm bushings being torqued fully extended to increase ride height to its norm.

Anyways, the noise presented while going over bumps and turning, but suspension components were tight... that is, at ride height. When I compressed the front end suspension individually by jacking up front wheels while the body sat on stands, I found that the roll bar end links were loose.

so, I'd say check suspension again throughout the range of compression. try and move stuff :}

​​​​​​If you don't find anything, consider checking for rotor warp. Brake pad kits don't/seldom come with a new spreader spring thingies and sometimes people throw 'em out as a result. then their rotors warp, regardless of how new they are. I mean.. warped rotors are pretty easy to notice when braking, so prolly not that, but if you're relying on newness to determine that they're still good, I gotta mention 'em.

 

UPDATE:

Well it appears that it was the passenger side front brake. I was giving it one more try before I took it to the pros. I got my rubber mallet out and whacked on both front tires. Driver’s side didn’t make any unusual noises, but the passenger side made a little rattle. Had my wife whack on it while I sat inside and it sounded kind of familiar. Jacked up the passenger side removed the wheel and started tapping around. Found a little play in the caliper bracket and noticed a little movement in the pads. Long story short, removed the pads, anti-rattle clips, the caliper pins and cleaned and greased. Pumped up the brakes to extend the piston and put some grease on the piston boot. Pressed the piston back in with a c-clamp, reassembled, and the noise is gone. To be fair, I’ve only put about 10 miles on it, but so far so good. I wouldn’t be surprised if it starts rattling again. If it does, I may just replace the caliper.

Anyway, that’s what I found. Hope this helps someone else.