Does the hds require a subscription or anything to work. Or is it just the tool?

 

No subscription from what I understand. You can buy knockoff ones on ebay and the like. Whether it solves my problem or not remains to be seen - the postal service here is on strike so hopefully it shows up soon.

 

Turns out, I lied... I said I was going to wait until tomorrow before doing the work. But, due to my awkward sleeping position last night, I ended up being awake far earlier than I normally am (I work in the evening and end up awake up long after, so I sleep the mornings away... usually). Also, the misfire slammed me pretty hard the other day, when I needed to take my mother to get a CT scan... a simple 5 min drive took nearly 10 as I had to constantly try to recover from limp mode.

That said, I chewed out the old threads, used a vacuum to suck up as many aluminum chips I could get to (which wasn't much from the looks of it). Popped in the thread insert along with a new spark plug and coil pack, then swapped out the other three spark plugs and coil packs also. Did not realize it took so little effort to turn the crank.

Let me tell you... it's freaking cold outside, who's the nut bag that decided to do this work in this weather, goddammit. I suppose, if nothing else, it's not as bad as the Carolinas.

~~~~~

Going on a tangent, I have a hypothesis as to why this issue occurs... It isn't simply an issue with too few threads on the engine, as some cars do have that issue. But an issue of too many threads on the spark plug itself.

Because of the engineering goal of having the spark plug tip in the middle of the compressed fuel/air (even flame front spread or some shit like that), it requires the end of the spark plug to thread long pass the engine cylinder wall (or rather, ceiling?). As you can see from the following picture of my #3 spark plug... Also, this set of spark plugs has only been in the engine something like one month.



And if you leave a spark plug for some 100k miles or more, there's assuredly going to be a lot of build up on the spark plug threads. The tip has some supposed self-cleaning feature of heating up and burning off whatever might build on it. But the steel body where the threads are, doesn't get that.

That build up eventually cakes on so hard, it's practically welded on... and as you remove the spark plug, that shit ends up chewing your threads on the way out. A given cylinder being the more susceptible owing to the nature of the intake manifold directing fuel air into it the most (this is even more evident with simplified manifolds like the one that came with the supercharger). That air affects the combustion and after effects (heat? deposits?).

I think we need one of two things... either a much shorter maintenance interval for the spark plug to avoid this (despite the plug itself "being good")... but I think this is not only expensive, but as mentioned earlier, the spark plugs I took out was only in the engine for a month and I could definitely feel the plugs fighting on the way out. I don't think there's a practical short interval for this.

Or spark plugs that have about half as many threads with the front half simply being a smooth shank. I'm sure they exist, it's only a question of how easy it is to get. I suppose if you want to ghetto it, DIY and sand off the threads at the end every time new plugs are installed.

Incidentally, the rethread kit came with four lengths of inserts (3/8", 7/16", 1/2" & 3/4"). The 3/4" is actually long enough to stick past the threaded body of the spark plug, while leaving the tip exposed. I can see that, if that had been used, the "dirty thread" could be avoided as none of the threads on the spark plug would be exposed. And some folks on youtube do suggest going for the longest one, but I decided to get the one that matches the engine as much as possible... on the off chance I "need" to use a short neck spark plug (no idea why I would though), as too long of an insert would make a weird tunnel for the spark in the cylinder. The one I used was the 7/16" (eyeballing it when compared to the old spark plug's less "dirty" portion).

 

 

Hello Chantastic,
You can snake around the cable easily by removing the 2 sun visor and if necessary take off the interior light. I remember there are several threads on fitfreak on how to remove sun visor and interior light.
After you remove the sun visor/interior light, you can easily snake the cable from the edge of the roof liner (near the top of the windshield) then down the A Pillar (remove the rubber gasket surrounding the door opening). (you do NOT need to take out the Apillar plastic which have airbags inside)

 

Hello,
No subscription for the software. (it's jail broken kinda of thing )...
The tedious part is following all the instruction on the video (inside their CD ROM) on how to install the software, select the options and make sure the driver and port setting work. Most likely you will also need USB to serial adapter since the HDS have serial connector and most laptop now only have USB. Also, make sure you buy the USB/Serial adaptor that is compatible with Windows 10 (in case you are using Windows 10). The USB?Serial adaptor chipset that I bought from the eBay vendor no longer work when I upgrade my laptop with Windows 10.

I had fixed many things with this HDS, like Airbag light, Reset my TPMS (many times), reset/relearn CKP for the engine that Sprintex recommend to do, I am pretty sure this can even change the mileage if you buy a new speedometer module, test the ABS function, empty the fuel (in case you need to work on fuel line)...
Basically anything that Honda mechanic can do with their diagnostic system, you can do it too (it is the same tool, just ahem NOT OEM Honda)

 

im sure you have seen this before Goobers, but maybe this will help you with a visual reference of the sparkplugs from the bottom side. if this pic is accurate, its stock plug on left and IK22 on right.... it doesnt seem to appear the threads are actually in the line of fire...but i can see how a penetration and hardening of the gunk on them could contribute to them being difficult to remove.

appreciate your info and updates on your issue...hope you get it all sorted.

*edit
ps...i know the plugs will always have some burnt soot....but do you think a catch can might reduce the amount of buildup? i can visualize oil seeping in through the intake valve from the pcv and right across to the spark plug threads. just a thought...

 

Yay! Glad you got if fixed. Hopefully that will be the end of it for you.

 

Nope, never seen that picture... is that an L15? If it barely protrudes, I wonder why it is, that it is consistently only clean on half of the threads on all the spark plugs. It would make more sense (to me anyway) to have threads all the way to the tip if the setup is that way. I guess it's time to invest in an inexpensive bore/endoscope.

As for the catch can... I have no idea. I've seen one of the arguments for a catch can being to keep the intake valves themselves clean on car with direct injection. The GE Fit engine has port injection and so the fuel should be doing the cleaning on the valve and the rest of the cylinder. But as I don't actually know what it is that cakes on the spark plug (deposits from the oil or the combustion itself regardless of the oil?), I wouldn't even dare make a guess at this point.

I think we need someone that has had a catch can for a long time (say before one spark plug change up to the time of the next spark plug) and show us the spark plug that was used while having a catch can. And hopefully, we can compare it to another spark plug with similar mileage on the plugs.

 

heres the site i got the image from: Project 2009 Honda Fit - Mugen Front Grill - Honda Tuning Magazine

heres another pic from another thread here on FF...of a GD for reference. also take not of the buildup on the intake valves towards the top.



im thinking the threads get a very slow seepage?my sparkplugs were all covered with a different levels of oily soot stuff when i removed them...some were halfway covered and some had all the threads covered. never came to a conclusion as to if that was normal or not. they also were barely snug which didnt help. after reading about the few members having issues with their plugs, and me revealing oil/fuel on my original set, they are always in the back of my mind along with blow by. with a new air filter, pcv valve and spark plugs (ik22), they seem to be ok now.

and though the fuel is being sprayed from above..the pcv contents are oozing through those channels and creeping back into the combustion chamber. along with some egr exhaust too, but we cant do anything about that. I installed a catch can recently and am still experimenting with it...so cant say im 100% for it. I plan to dump it next month and do an oil change, but so far is seems to be catching a lot more fuel than I expected. I almost want to say its 50%fuel 50%oil mixture, from the few times I have peeked in the can after install. after realizing this, and remembering the somewhat excessive oil/fuel smell on my original plugs, im wondering how much pcv gunk really is making its way back into the combustion chamber and onto the plugs. i hate thinking about all these things..lol.

 

 

whats up fit freak? Its been 100 years but I've been up to a lot with my fit.
didn't do anything to it today, but recently got the K24 Swap done in it. It was a bit of a challenge to fit it in with the JDM front conversion. The rad support had to be notched in several places to accommodate the pulleys and intake manifold. The the front rebar had to be notched in the back to allow the slim fan to fit. We also did a 5AT to 6MT with LSD conversion.

It is almost 100% functional at this point. the only thing that remains is a knock sensor code. I need to swap out the Civic Si sensor for the Accord K24 sensor, and move some pins around to the ECU.

my fenders were also banged up pretty bad from a recent tow. Basically I was driving around without an exhaust installed on the new engine for a bit(ironically on my way to the exhaust shop to get it done). The hot air being blown around underneath caused my airlines on the air ride to weaken and pop. So the front drivers side deflated while moving. Luckily I was safely able to move to the side of the road, but the fender liner was totally destroyed. I had to call a tow truck, but because the front of the car was slammed on the ground and the tow truck driver was too incompetent to raise the car properly, it was dragged onto a flat bed truck, which is when the fenders got messed up pretty bad.

Luckily, that was the only damage that occurred, as the bumper was already off. and because it was the company's fault, they are going to send me a cheque for new parts. So now im waiting for some used GE8 RS fenders to arrive from Japan, then my buddy will paint them at his collision shop, and ill swap the fenders myself. A lot of work, but ill actually profit close to $700 as the damage estimate originally included labour and repairs rather than simply buying new parts and paint(which is much cheaper and probably the better way to go anyway).

 

I took my free time this holiday to install adjustable sway bar link that I bought few months ago :
The old non adjustable one is the sway bar link from Spoon as part of the Spoon Front Sway Bar package... 13in length like stock Honda sway bar.
The adjustable sway bar was also based on 13in length but of course adjustable to release tension.
More details and driving impression in this link below:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1420054

Not hard to do with the right tools :








I also change my right drive axle since it start developing clunking noise when driving slowly and turning, and it have slack when I move it by hand side by side.
After I install this new axle, no more slack. This one is more complicated then changing the sway bar link of course
But the steps are almost the same as when I change my Lower Control Arm to Honda Insight Aluminum Lower Control Arm (actually a bit less) so I just look at my old notes on how I change the LCA.

After all the above, I decided to do alignment because I know I can have more negative camber with my current tire 225/40/ZR18 without steering problem like when I use 215/40/ZR18. (more side wall compliance)
I do the alignment myself, I use my QuickTrick alignment tool, really make everything easy and precise. The only trouble is, I need to crawl under the car a lot.
So I add more negative camber about 0.5 degrees to both front wheel, and adjust the toe to 2mm toe in (total).
Then test drove the car, and wow, improve steering feel (but still not twitchy like with the 215/40/ZR18 tire), and also more feedback during cornering.

This is really a HAPPY HOLIDAY for me

Picture of new right drive axle, shiny black

 

used it as a snow plow today

 

cool! Happy new year to all fit and jazz owners around the world!

 

I am going to travel out of state next week, so yesterday and I today I do the following:
a. Engine Oil Level (I did not check the Sprintex oil level since I just checked them a few weeks ago)
b. Coolant Level
c. Windshield Water Fluid Level
d. Readjust Front Camber to - 2.1 degrees (MINUS Camber) and Readjust Toe-IN again to 3mm (because the front right wheel camber was at - 1.9 degrees and I want it to be perfectly match the left at - 2.1 degrees)
e. Check all tire at 35 psi
d. Clean MAF SENSOR with MAF Sensor Cleaner
f. Clean the SAMCO Hose, Air Needle Valve and K&N Fuel Filter that connect from Sprintex Supercharger to AEM F/IC-6 MAP Sensor by spraying with QD Contact Cleaner
g. Re TORQUE all Spark Plug to 23Nm without opening or replacing them. I usually change my Denso IK-22 spark plug every 25,000 miles (sometimes even after just 10 to 15k miles when I was experimenting with an even colder Denso IK-24 (and when I was testing at how rich/lean the mixture is).
But after several plug changes, I notices that at 25k miles, the Denso IK-22 spark plug is still working well (despite the richer fuel mixture) so this time I decide to just keep using it until another 25k miles then I will change it. I know this spark plug suppose to last 100k miles,
but they are cheap so I don't mind changing them more often, beside I always carry extra brand new set in my car just in case I need to replace them on the road, and I have plenty of back up new set at home.
Since I did not took them out but just re-torque, I don't put any anti seize this time. Normally, when I took them out, I use just a bit of Loctite Silver Anti Seize (NOT a THREADLOCKER but an ANTISEIZE) as specified in Honda service manual.
No problem with loose spark plug since I always re torque or just replace them every 25,000 miles and I torque them higher than Honda recommended factory torque spec of 18Nm but still in the low range of what Denso recommended for ALUMINUM Engine.

THE KEY to fight LOOSE Spark Plug is to Torque them at between 22Nm to 23Nm when they are new (with Anti Seize) and re Torque them every 25k miles.

note: to change/torque spark plug properly, I always remove the wiper, remove the plastic cowl cover, wiper motor, and the metal plate under the cowl. This way I have easy access for my torque wrench to torque the spark plug. I even torque the bolt that hold the coil and torque all the bolt that hold the metal tray, wiper motor and wiper hand following Honda service manual torque value. Also don't forget to put a bit of dielectric grease on the coil holes to prevent rust between the coil contact to spark plug terminal.
ah, one last thing, I always un-clip the plastic socket that hold the O2 sensor wiring near the 4th spark plug coil because it is obstructing the tight access to the bolt that hold the 4th coil.

 

I removed all the mods from my 2010 GE8. Swift lowering springs, mugen quick shifter, HPS short ram intake and 2010 Honda Fit MT with 116k mi are available. PM me if interested.

 

what PN are those swift springs?

 

The part number is 4H021

 

Had the drive belt replaced after seeing these: