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Nakamichi EC-302 Analog Active Old School Crossover (Brand New Old Stock) just arrived,
I will modify and upgrade it and test it against my current Zapco ASP-X4 Active Crossover soon
Click through the quote to go to my install thread in the Illumination subforum!
Originally Posted by evanphi
OK so here's the beginning of my Fit Battle Car... or just my car that needs better lighting.
I purchased the bull bar plate mount and hella fog light kit on Amazon.
Mounted front and back
Had to elongate the holes, stack 5 10mm washers and cut off the bottom off the rock guards.
Plate comes off the front by unscrewing two 6mm bolts (10mm socket). I had mocked up where it would be according to the two bolts that hold the plate on the mount and their location on the bumper.
Then slap some lights on there:
Now onto the wiring...
Relay location
Wiring tidied up. The instructions in the Hella kit are awesome. But you can look up any "how to wire a relay" video and it'll tell the same thing.
Red with 15A fuse direct to battery
Blue is ground
Black is switched power to the lights
Yellow is the switched 12V pickup to trigger the relay
The green wire is the ground to the lights themselves. I went with old Honda ground colour (from my motorcycle) as I didn't have any blue.
Full shot of the wiring
Closed up. The plate mount wouldn't go back on with the original two bolts underneath (which are used so you don't have to drill holes in the bumper). So I just did the single bolt through the middle of the plate mount which went right into the light mount and bumper. This also allowed the plate to sit a bit lower to clear the nuts underneath that hold the lights on.
Looks pretty badass if you ask me!
Now what about the inside wiring...? Well that's going to have to wait. I need to get that yellow wire into the cabin. Ideally it would go in through the hood release cable grommet, but the fender liner is proving a challenge. Canadian models have this extra bit at the bottom and those three screws hold it on. The liner is really held on tight at the bottom by these blind holes/clips. Any idea how to get them off? Another option is go go through the door wiring flex rubber... but I don't want to put a hole in such a high-moisture area if I can help it.
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So this is where I now sit. Some badass fog lights installed, but no power for them just yet...
I ordered new screw clips for the bottom of the fender liner and I'll be getting them from my local stealership tomorrow. I'll likely have to break them to get them out in order to access the hood release grommet, which is where I'll pass the switch wire through to the cabin.
Intermittent rough idle, oil leaks, pressure from dipstick tude.
all of the symptoms were intermittent , After I pulled the PCV valve and shaked it you would hear the ball inside getting stuck. I installed a new valve and cleaned up the old one to use in one of my other Hondas .
Originally Posted by BMW ALPINA
Thank You for your reply
At the same time I read the post from JerrySFL above, I also start having intermittent rough idle, then it got worse, where sometimes, the car hesitate when accelerating from slow speed (low RPM), then it got worse where the engine almost stall in highway speed,
then sometimes, the car engine shut down during idle...
I am pretty sure it is the PCV valve just because I had not replace them and never clean them.
Luckily I already bought a PCV valve a few months ago together with a new oil resistant version of Samco Hose since the current Samco Hose connected to the PCV valve is not oil resistant and I can see oil discolor the surface of the Samco hose (seeping out).
I just never had time to change them because it require me to remove my Big 3 wiring/fuse panel...
But since this is now become urgent, I change the PCV Valve along with the Samco Hose yesterday and now the car drive normal again.
I make a note from now on, I will replace the PCV valve every 50,000 miles.
I also just ordered MAP sensor, MAF Sensor, Primary O2 sensor, and all 4 Coil. Hopefully they will arrive this week so I can replace all of them (with new spark plug) this weekend..
Today, I took the Fit to redline and made it bleed.
I was on the highway and for some reason, I didn’t upshift from 3rd. I looked at my tach only to see it right at redline. Normally, I shift around 4k to 5k, so this was a little surprising.
Not long after getting off the highway, I noticed a smell. Then, doing a delivery, I check under the hood... sure enough, some supercharger oil came out around the fill port I messed up.
I mentioned it a few posts back, but the short of it is, I stripped the threads of the fill port and tried to fix it by enlarging the hole. I cut in at an off angle, so the bolt head no longer sits flush and the washer doesn’t provide a proper seal now. So, at higher and higher rpm, the everything heats up and any oil that got sprayed at the fill port (spinning gears will do that) will get pushed out from the building pressure.
*sigh* While I have an idea of how I might fix it, I’ll need to dedicate a time to take it off the car and bench drill it to enlarge the hole even more.
I did, sort of. I thought about using the same style insert that I used on the spark plugs I dealt with, not actual helicoil (wire coil).
The thing is, the bolt hole was smaller than a standard spark plug, so I figured I'd try enlarging it to just the size of a spark plug first. I think it would've been fine, if I had managed to cut in straight.
So, now that its cut in at an angle and the size of a spark plug, I think I'm going to have to skip the size insert I used and go for the "big-sert" to straighten it out. The alternative is to grind down the surrounding for the bolt head to sit flat. It probably has enough wall thickness to do it... but either option is a make or break option. Which ever option I choose, I can't use with the other option and once I start, I have to make it work, there's no repairing it if I fail (outside of some sort of epoxy blend filling). And if I fail, it's either going back to stock or buying a replacement casing.. or worse, the whole supercharger unit.
I did, sort of. I thought about using the same style insert that I used on the spark plugs I dealt with, not actual helicoil (wire coil).
The thing is, the bolt hole was smaller than a standard spark plug, so I figured I'd try enlarging it to just the size of a spark plug first. I think it would've been fine, if I had managed to cut in straight.
So, now that its cut in at an angle and the size of a spark plug, I think I'm going to have to skip the size insert I used and go for the "big-sert" to straighten it out. The alternative is to grind down the surrounding for the bolt head to sit flat. It probably has enough wall thickness to do it... but either option is a make or break option. Which ever option I choose, I can't use with the other option and once I start, I have to make it work, there's no repairing it if I fail (outside of some sort of epoxy blend filling). And if I fail, it's either going back to stock or buying a replacement casing.. or worse, the whole supercharger unit.
I've used JB Weld Steel Stik before. Once it is cured you can drill and tap it to the correct bolt size. Check on the pressure rating of it, though. If the internal oil pressure gets too high it could blow the whole thing out! TimeSerts are a great option for important areas like this. But they are much more expensive than helicoil to buy a kit for only one insert.
I've used JB Weld Steel Stik before. Once it is cured you can drill and tap it to the correct bolt size. Check on the pressure rating of it, though. If the internal oil pressure gets too high it could blow the whole thing out! TimeSerts are a great option for important areas like this. But they are much more expensive than helicoil to buy a kit for only one insert.
I don't mind paying for something that I trust more than the cheaper less-expensive alternative. While I'm not quite entrenched in the belief that you get what you pay for, more often that not, going the "cheaper" way has costed me more, be it car parts, computer parts or even just clothing. And the "cost" can be actual money, time or sheer frustration... actually, many times its all three in the form of time trying to get it to work out, frustration in the attempt and loss of time and finally cost when realizing it won't work out and I have to get that more expensive option anyway.
Any worries I have with (non-wire) inserts, I also have with helicoil (wire). And then on TOP of that, I have additional concerns, some of which I was able to confirm a few cases of when googling. So it's already not much of a choice for me, to go with the insert.
~~~~~
That said, I don't know how high the internal pressure of that part of the unit gets... I do know that the shop I ordered the unit from actually sells (a service to install?) a pressure relief kit. I didn't do it when I had them service my unit (it blew out some seals and leaked oil everywhere), but another member on the forum did.
Pressure on that side isn't listed as part of what little info there is on the product's webpage (the shop or the actual manufacturer).
So, as to whether or not the pressure gets higher to blow out a "re-fill" is quite up in the air.
My headlight's too bad already, and new sets are too expensive for me so I decided to DIY. Buffed it, cleaned the insides of the lens because it's all dirty as well. Also painted the inside trim matte black with heat resistant coating? It's all I had lying around so I dont know if it's any good in the long run. I'm still about to polish it again and put UV coating. So far it rained all day, drove though it, went back and no fogging or leaks! I'm happy with the result, it's like Avril Lavigne now with eye liner lol
Last edited by Kitsken; 03-07-2019 at 09:35 AM.
Reason: Double pix
Cool! A throwback to the GD, which came w/ body colored headlight surrounds! I like it, it really looks good on your Fit!!
Thanks, I think I saw a youtube video about his grandma's Fit having a black headlight trim, stock.
While waiting for the paint to dry, I actually looked for a replacement headlights because I knew I destroyed mine by melting the clips when I got impatient with my heat gun. lol
I'm just waiting for water to come in and I'm getting a replacement! I dont have a big enough oven.
Really nice!
Would fit well on my Milano red with black accents!
But I don't have the time to do it!
Took me 2days,
almost a day to pull the headlight lens apart, i have no oven. Cleaned the insides of the lens, removed excess butyl and replaced it with new ones. Painting took some time, it's still cold and rainy so dry time is long.
Another day for paint to completely dry because it would be bad if it evaporated inside a sealed unit, just being cautious!
Tomorrow i'll be polishing the outside lens and put UV protection. This is what I get for buying a used car, freedom to modify without worrying or feeling bad for destroying a brand new part! lol
Long time no visit here super busy at work! But here are what i did to my fit so far, nothing fancy, just normal ride...
Safety and Privacy purposes. Tires were dried and rotting, and since heavy tint isnt allowed here i just bought a curtain so i can close it when i park and sleep inside my car... and you know... lol
are those the tein streed basis z coil overs? How low is the car fully dumped?
02-16-2019, 03:28 PM
