Lights flickered during jump, car won't start.
#1
Lights flickered during jump, car won't start.
So I left my headlights on all night, like an idiot. I figured, no problem, I'll just jump it off my wife's car.
Did everything by the book, hooked it up, started my wife's car, went to start the Fit. Turned the headlights off before doing anything. When I turned the key several of the indicator lights came on (as they normally do) but the starter wouldn't fire -- no sound at all. Then the indicator lights started flickering on and off rapidly with a clicking noise. I thought I might have a bad connection on the jumper cables, so I turned the cars off, reconnected them, and tried again. This time none of the indicator lights came on other than the parking brake and passenger airbag off ones. As before, the starter wouldn't engage. Gave it a few minutes to charge, no change.
Has anyone seen this behavior before? I'm not sure if the battery isn't taking a charge or maybe I've blown a fuse.
Did everything by the book, hooked it up, started my wife's car, went to start the Fit. Turned the headlights off before doing anything. When I turned the key several of the indicator lights came on (as they normally do) but the starter wouldn't fire -- no sound at all. Then the indicator lights started flickering on and off rapidly with a clicking noise. I thought I might have a bad connection on the jumper cables, so I turned the cars off, reconnected them, and tried again. This time none of the indicator lights came on other than the parking brake and passenger airbag off ones. As before, the starter wouldn't engage. Gave it a few minutes to charge, no change.
Has anyone seen this behavior before? I'm not sure if the battery isn't taking a charge or maybe I've blown a fuse.
#3
This.
If you have a manual, try bump starting it. If it runs but the battery light is on, the battery (and/or alternator) is dead. Try leaving the jumper cables on a little longer and giving your wife's car a few revs to assist charging. If it still doesn't start, replace the battery.
And yes, it is possible you blew a fuse since none of the IP lights are coming on. Look at your fuses that are under the red cap attached to your battery as well as the main panel inside the car.
If you have a manual, try bump starting it. If it runs but the battery light is on, the battery (and/or alternator) is dead. Try leaving the jumper cables on a little longer and giving your wife's car a few revs to assist charging. If it still doesn't start, replace the battery.
And yes, it is possible you blew a fuse since none of the IP lights are coming on. Look at your fuses that are under the red cap attached to your battery as well as the main panel inside the car.
Last edited by mhadden; 04-20-2012 at 09:36 AM.
#4
connect the jumper cables (by the book). Let the "donor" car run several minutes before trying to start the Fit. Monitor the cables to make sure they aren't getting too hot.
If this still doesn't work, the Fit's battery may be damaged. Pull it out, take it to autozone and have them charge and test it. They also sell (pricey) replacements. Check NAPA prices before buying. Honda sells the battery for about $110.
It might be best to pull it out and have it slow charged anyway. The Fit may have protective circuitry to avoid charging a dead battery too fast, but it's kinder/gentler to have it trickle charged. Problem is getting a loaner battery...
Alternatively buy a float charger and leave it on for 24 hours...
If this still doesn't work, the Fit's battery may be damaged. Pull it out, take it to autozone and have them charge and test it. They also sell (pricey) replacements. Check NAPA prices before buying. Honda sells the battery for about $110.
It might be best to pull it out and have it slow charged anyway. The Fit may have protective circuitry to avoid charging a dead battery too fast, but it's kinder/gentler to have it trickle charged. Problem is getting a loaner battery...
Alternatively buy a float charger and leave it on for 24 hours...
#5
when you do a jump start, if the donor battery is a decent one, you don't need to have the donor car running. It would be the same as the donor battery is swapped in for the dead battery (well, in parallel, but same concept).
My point is that having the different alternator going from the donor car, can mess things up.
If the donor car is weak, it is better to rev the donor car or take it for a drive to bump it's battery up; then shut it down before hooking up.
Agree with above to let the batteries get to know each other a few minutes before attempting the start (but can occur with donor car off).
If nothing lights up anymore, perhaps there is a fuse blown somewhere.
My point is that having the different alternator going from the donor car, can mess things up.
If the donor car is weak, it is better to rev the donor car or take it for a drive to bump it's battery up; then shut it down before hooking up.
Agree with above to let the batteries get to know each other a few minutes before attempting the start (but can occur with donor car off).
If nothing lights up anymore, perhaps there is a fuse blown somewhere.
Last edited by raytseng; 04-20-2012 at 03:08 PM.
#6
So I left my headlights on all night, like an idiot. I figured, no problem, I'll just jump it off my wife's car.
Did everything by the book, hooked it up, started my wife's car, went to start the Fit. Turned the headlights off before doing anything. When I turned the key several of the indicator lights came on (as they normally do) but the starter wouldn't fire -- no sound at all. Then the indicator lights started flickering on and off rapidly with a clicking noise. I thought I might have a bad connection on the jumper cables, so I turned the cars off, reconnected them, and tried again. This time none of the indicator lights came on other than the parking brake and passenger airbag off ones. As before, the starter wouldn't engage. Gave it a few minutes to charge, no change.
Has anyone seen this behavior before? I'm not sure if the battery isn't taking a charge or maybe I've blown a fuse.
Did everything by the book, hooked it up, started my wife's car, went to start the Fit. Turned the headlights off before doing anything. When I turned the key several of the indicator lights came on (as they normally do) but the starter wouldn't fire -- no sound at all. Then the indicator lights started flickering on and off rapidly with a clicking noise. I thought I might have a bad connection on the jumper cables, so I turned the cars off, reconnected them, and tried again. This time none of the indicator lights came on other than the parking brake and passenger airbag off ones. As before, the starter wouldn't engage. Gave it a few minutes to charge, no change.
Has anyone seen this behavior before? I'm not sure if the battery isn't taking a charge or maybe I've blown a fuse.
Just out of curiosity did you hook the cables positive to positive and negative to negative? Nothing was grounded anywhere? The two cars didn't come in contactdid they?
When you tried to start the car did you hear the stater solenoid click on or not?
If the starter wouuldn't engage at all the starter solenid could be out or not enough power to throw it.
Recharge your battery with a charger and see if it takes a charge.
Isuspect either bad battery or bad starter solenoid. Or loose battery to starter connection.
#7
happened to me from having my doors open all day while trying to hook up my rear view camera. i ended up taking out the battery and bringing it to honda for them to test.
About to test it when my friends cousin who works as a mechanic for honda came out and told the guy to just give us a new battery. That solved it all havent had a problem since.
About to test it when my friends cousin who works as a mechanic for honda came out and told the guy to just give us a new battery. That solved it all havent had a problem since.
#8
Thanks for the input, everyone.
I did a visual inspection of the three under-hood fuses (they seemed the most likely to prevent the starter from receiving power), but skipped the dashboard fuses after reading the chart of what each was for. I didn't see how any of them could cause the problem I was seeing, and you have to be some kind of contortionist to get at them easily.
After that I took the battery to a local Advance that had the battery in stock, where they tested it and confirmed it had a bad cell and was only capable of 8.5 volts of power.
Paid an arm and a leg for a new one because I don't have time to shop around while borrowing my wife's car, popped it in, and everything works fine.
I did a visual inspection of the three under-hood fuses (they seemed the most likely to prevent the starter from receiving power), but skipped the dashboard fuses after reading the chart of what each was for. I didn't see how any of them could cause the problem I was seeing, and you have to be some kind of contortionist to get at them easily.
After that I took the battery to a local Advance that had the battery in stock, where they tested it and confirmed it had a bad cell and was only capable of 8.5 volts of power.
Paid an arm and a leg for a new one because I don't have time to shop around while borrowing my wife's car, popped it in, and everything works fine.
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