Help with alignment issue please
 

Swift springs were installed on my 09 sport.
Drove from 2 weeks and 400 miles and got alignment at Monro Mufflers.

Drove after alignment for a few miles and noticed car pull slightly to right for fraction of second. Didn't think much of this. Next day noticed that the steering wheel is has to be turned slightly to right to make car go straight.

The alignment just changed the toe to 0 degrees. Nothing else was changed.

They will look at it tomorrow. Other mod is Progress AR bar.

Thanks.

You can't just change toe with drop springs, there is some camber action as well.
(Ignore Hondas assertion that you cant adjust them..)

Find a small indy alignment shop, look for one with a bunch of niche cars like saabs or jettas, OLD FWD nissans Audi's etc.. Especially rally cars are a sign of a shop that knows alignment.

If you tell them you'd like the car to turn in a little better and transition to neutral and they look like they just lost track of what your talking about,, run away..

The service guy at monro goes since it is lowered then only toe is should be changed.

He's wrong.

Read a couple books about tuning race car suspension, you don't have to be an expert, but some practical knowledge will save you money.

Centering the wheel is the most basic alignment 101 and right vs left toe adjustment is how it gets done.

You can check the toe with 4 jackstands ( or whatever), two pieces of string and a tape measure. Get the sting parallel measuring behind the car, in front and equadistant from the rear axle. This is fiddly. When parallel, measure the front tires to centre the wheels. When centred, measure the difference between the front and back of the front tires. Most of the time 1/8 is right, 1/16 for each wheel.

Or, buy a $50000 machine.

Toe out or toe in?

I run 1/16" of total toe out in the front on the car I autocross and 1/8" total toe out on the rear. Makes the car rotate very well, but also makes it very squirrelly on the street. I have to pay constant attention to it and make continuous steer wheel adjustments. It also wants to dart to the left or right under hard braking. I pay this price to get what I want out of it when I autocross. IMHO, the zero toe that the OP's alignment guy used would be a good compromise alignment for the street. Not sure why he didn't have to make any camber adjustments, but maybe someone maxed out the negative camber when it was lowered?