Pull rear Drum(how to) check brake shoes
 

Yeah, I have to just check the rear shoes....

I think they are good... BUT, I really just want to make sure.

I see that there is a dust cover(for the wheel bearing)
Is the hub integral with the brake drum? or is it separate.....

Sorta hard to tell........ I get the feeling that they are.....

Relevant thread link: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...brake-diy.html

The drum separates from the hub
If stuck, the drum may have threaded holes, you screw an M8x1.25 thread bolt into it to push the drum away from the hub

Civic, similar, showing a bolt in the threaded hole:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...3294ef19e8.jpg

Thanks!

That is great! I wrote the the bolt size....

WHat about flashing it with some heat (of a torch)

Mine are about as rusty as the ones in the pic.........

Heat should be last resort IMO

Squirt some penetrating oil into the threaded holes and let it soak a while so the bolt can start threading in

ok, Dig it.......

Tapping around outside of drum with your big hammer may free it as well.

Have you ever had to change front pads and rotors? If not then very doubtful the rears need attention. I am in my 10th year on original rears. About 60,000

Aye!,

Thanks...... Hammering is nice...... (allows the shoes to pop back to their resting place)

I put a bunch of heat with a torch into the holes.... Kinda needed to blow/burn the rust out

They may be original shoes..(just got the vehicle)

There is about an 1/8" left on them (in their thinnest spots)

Is there a way to tell if they are original(I am just curious) There was a white painted/printed(letter number on them) part number?

But, no sign of like a Honda stamp on them.........

Whaddya think?

I guess there's about 200k miles on the car? LOL


my GFs 07 has about 250k miles on it, original shoes afaik.
Hondas rear shoes wear so slow our parts department doesn't keep any in stock at all for any model because we never try to sell any


Original shoe lining thickness may have been about 4mm. FSM says replace at 2mm lining thickness, but if it took 200,000 miles to reach that point we kinda try to let the owner decide if they believe the car will last long enough to NEED rear brakes replaced (salt and rust belt here)

Yeah,

I am in the Fridge too!....

Currently running an Ol' Subie Loyale (been a winter beater for ever gonna miss her when she goes ).... over 300K...

But, really enjoying having a vehicle that is almost current with the times (09 FIt)

I won't worry about the shoes then.....

Wow! interesting story.......... ANd funny too!

I'm at 146K. Rear shoes have 2.5mm at the lowest point. New they are 4mm. Service limit is 1mm. So... they've worn 1.5mm over 150K. Should be 300K before they need replacing at that rate.

Still, I pull off the drums (a rubber mallet is my weapon of choice to knock them loose) every time I rotate the tires to eyeball them. Also blow out the dust (take care not to breathe the dust).

Front pads last an average 25-30K miles between changes on mine: Atlanta stop-and-go traffic. These have wear sensors (unless someone replaced with non-OE style pads) when they get to their service limit. When these start to make noise it's metal on metal. Initially it sounds like maybe the A/C is making noise but gets worse rapidly.

Wow!.... Ok, I will just keep on checking the rear pads from time to time....
There was a good 1/8" on there... So that is like 3mm ........Wow!

Rear shoes weak braking
 

About 2 months ago I had the rear brakes adjusted during a brake job. There was approx. 1/8" lining left on them. Brake fluid was flushed and bled. The tech adjusted the rears, drums and wheel cylinders all OK. At first the pedal was very firm with a quick, short travel, quick stops (EBC Green pads), e-brake has nice short pull (5-6 clicks) but the rear brakes are gutless. After a couple of weeks the pedal has a bit more travel than before and e-brake also. No matter how hard you haul on the e-brake you can't slide the rear tires or slow down even. The starwheel adjusters don't do much at all. Front pads and rotors are good. Any ideas? If the shoes are toast, what material other than factory replacement will give more grab to make the adjusters actually DO something?