Ping/Knock is not caused by oil. That is unless you are burning it. Try again.

As for Royal Purple being deemed out of hand "garbage" because of your associating it with Ping/Knock.. that is laughable, and makes your opinion on other automotive topics suspect.

 

Honda Filter
Royal Purple 5W-20

Side note- EASIEST OIL CHANGE EVER!

 

dam you guys use more expensive oil then i do for my evo -.-
at first i did use amsoil but i run Shell Rotella T6 5w40 now and Napa Gold oil filters

 

Rotella T6 is the best synthetic deal out there. Thats what goes in the motorcycles.

Chevron Delo is no good for bikes because the moly in it is too slippery for wet clutches.

 

I will give it a try. Trucks has more stress so it should be fine in a car. The price point is not too bad either.

 

Ditto. This is all I have used in my bikes. Worked great in my 08 Wing up to 8k miles (and probably could've went further if I started doing UOA's)!

In the Fit, I run M1 AFE 0W20, Subaru (Idemitsu) 0W20, or Motorcraft 0 (or 5)w20. Always with a Purolator PureOne PL14610 filter or a Bosch if I forgot to order more P1's.

 

Anyone using Pennzoil Platinum Ow-20 in their Fit? I am coming close to my second oil change and still undecided. The first oil change I used Honda full synthetic Ow-20 (conoco phillips) . I purchased Mobil 1 Ow-20 AFE for the next interval , but still thinking about using Pennzoil Platinum. Not much experience with Mobil 1 which seems to do well in the Fit. What oil would you choose?

Thanks

 

I would stick with 1 brand type after break in. You run the risk of additive clash which can cause wear if you keep changing oils. That is why its important to run the break in oil to 15 percent MM.

 

I've used 5W-20 PP and it works fine. My OCI (Oil Change Interval) with synthetic is 150% of the MM. (Reset the MM at 50% then change oil when the wrench icon illuminates)

Like I mentioned, I use whatever synthetic brand is cheapest. I've used 5W-20 or 5W-30 or 0W-20 or 30. No "additive clash" observed...

 

Additive clash can be a problem and I have seen some symptoms of it from time to time on this site. Chances of it are slim but still possible. Recognizing the Symptoms of Lubricant Incompatibility

Here is a site to look up the differences between brands. The Petroleum Quality Institute of America

 

Aware of P.Q.I.A.. Very good site . As is B.I.T.O.G.. Thanks .

 

The last four years:
Oil: Mobil1 5w-20
Filter: Mobil1
The next two oil changes (at least):
Amsoil Signature 0w20 oil
Amsoil Filter
I thought I'd give it a try and see how it works. Besides, I still haven't forgiven Exxon/Mobil for the Valdez; I'd rather not give them my money.
--
Barry

 

"While some types of lubricants are already tested and qualified for mixing between brands (motor oils for instance), most are not."

Another motor oil myth dies. While there are many oil blenders and bottlers out there, only a handful of companies make base oils and even fewer make additives. Just buy reputable brands and you are safe.

 

Can anyone tell me the product code the amsoil Eao for our GE FIT? Just want to make sure I order the right one. Mine is a JDM.

 

The EaO-13 filter is not made anymore. The Ea15K13 is the filter recommended by Amsoil but it needs to be changed every 15K.

 

I have been using Mobil 1 in all flavors and weights since 1992 in countless cars. High revving supercharged Integra, high horsepower 5.0 mustangs, and just plain daily driving cars like civics and camrys. But, you name the oil, I have tried it (Brad Penn/redline/Royal Purple/Rotella/PP/Valvoline/etc.)
In 2004 I got bitten by the Amsoil bug and used it in everything I owned, and I used all of their fluids (ATF/Hydrualic/Engine oil/Filters, and the list goes on. My 1971 GS455 really liked Amsoil 10w40 so thats all it got. Period. I have spent years pulling my hair out and trying to find that best oils. Most of those years I had no internet.

Currently I use Mobil 1 0w20 and a Mobil 1 filter on my 2012 Fit A/T and will be changing it at about 20% on the OLM. I am trying not to stress about it so much these days because I have learned a few things during my 21 years in busy dealerships with Toyota, Honda, and Hyundai. First and foremost we guys and gals that gather on this forum are the exception to the rule when it comes to car maintenance. Some of us, me included, over maintain our cars in regards to oil changes. The car manufactuers I mentioned have extremely low engine failures do to oil related concerns. They cantake some serious abuse. There was a time that Toyota had a serious oil gelling/sludge issue with several different engines from about 1997 to 2003. I had to oversee any warranty claim or repairs on well over 300 engines at just my dealership. It was a mess. The oil was always black as coal and had sludged up the upper cylinder heads, stuck pistion rings, and other nice stuff. One common denominator in EVERY case I oversaw, the customer could never provide any documentation of any service work, and did not even know what had been done. The second one was that if it was our customer (we had 15000 in our data base) our records would show things like no oil changes in 30,000 miles, oil change intervals being done at twice the manufactures recommendation several times in a row with us documenting this each time. Interestingly enough, the customers that came into see us on time, or did it themselves and had records, never, and I mean not a single one, had any sludge issues. During the "sludge" years a high percentage of cars were leased, Toyota change the oil change interval from 5000 miles to 7500 for regular driving, and the engines started running hotter. The cars were neglected and everything came together like a perfect storm for those customers that were used to pushing their luck. Many Camrys and Siennas came in with the original oil filters at 15k,25k,35k (there were special factory markings on the filters in those days). The customers were dumbfounded that the engine could fail. Those were tough days to be a service manager! But Toyota eventually stepped up, got sued, whatever, and fixed every single engine. There were no design changes because there weren't defects. Toyota just repaired and cleaned and rebuilt engines at zero charges to customers. You know what else? After consulting with these customers closely on how to maintain thier car, none of the engines we repaired sludged again.

Sorry I got a little off track, but I guess what I am saying is changing the engine oil and filter is way more important than having the absolute best oil and filter. I don't mean to slam anyones ideas, but todays engines are so well designed and the oils and so well engineered that proper maintenance is making internally lubricated engine part failure very rare. My income has suffered greatly the last year or so, so no more Amsoil. I get Mobil 1 at Walmart at a great price, and I feel very comfortable with it and my engine will probably outlast the body.

Thanks for letting me rant a little bit, but these are my first hand observations in years at a high volume Toyota dealership, and some time at a large Honda dealer, and some tiome with Hyundai. My Toyota dealer serviced approx. 18000 Toyota's a year, and 3500 other makes a year.

 

derek,

I enjoyed your story,

Thanks for sharing.

 

NO, thank you for reading it and not flaming me. Its just the cold hard truth. We are discussing some subjects that are very near and dear to car guys. I learned my stuff in the trenches. The average driver is different from us here. And thier engine keeps running over 100k slightly abused or not.

 

Mobile 1 5w20
Mobile 1 oil filter.

 

royal purple...