I changed the oil in my son's Fit, and I noticed that the valves are very loud. At 100,068, they've never been adjusted. Have any of you adjusted the valves on one of these? I'm wondering if it's a DIY, or if I should bring it to a mechanic. I've adjusted valves on lots of cars, but the Fit seems more involved. Also, I'm wondering about the cost of having it done.

Thanks.

EDIT: There is a good, local mechanic.

 

It's a do-able DIY on my '13 Fit. The first time is intimidating because there are so many things that you have to remove just to get to the valves. But once you're in, it's like any other valve adjustment.

Let us know how it goes.

 

The local Honda dealer should be able to give you a fixed quote on how much it costs.

 

Thanks. Still thinking. One problem: two garages full of "stuff." Rain in the forecast. I would have two big jobs: clean out a garage; adjust the valves. 😲

 

Both highly desirable and noble tasks to take on. The entire FitFreak Forum is rooting for you!!!

 

i'm thinking of doing the valves on my '19 GK . can i use the same specs as the previous gen Fit? i have a Haynes manual for that one. taking it apart won't be an issue, but i wonder if the valve
adjustments are the same.

 

The 2009-2013 Fit had a different engine than the post-2015 Fit, so I wouldn't assume that any specifications are the same. Hopefully someone here with a service manual can provide you with the required information. Speaking of, I found and downloaded the service manual for my 2010 (many years ago) for free, so it would be worth 10 minutes of Googling.

 

I don't know. I do not have the Service Manual for your model year.

 

I found this.


He's saying 0.006" - 0.008" for intake and 0.010" - 0.012" for exhaust. Not sure how he got those numbers.

Definitely read the comments, though. Apparently, it's possible to do this without removing the cowl stuff, and keeping a lot of the intake stuff in place, also.
I'd also recommend purchasing a valve adjustment tool ($20-something). Makes each adjustment step so much quicker.

Also watch "TE VIDEOS" YouTube channel to see a pro do a similar job, as a reference.

 

Yes, I watched that video. The local mechanic did the adjustment for $150. When it comes time for my car, I might do it myself, but for $150, I might bring it to him.

 

I made it as far as him taking off the cowl before I had to turn it off. Whipping the camera around making me sick. Get. A. Cameraman.

Also he doesn't know how to do valve lash adjustments. You're supposed to hold the tappet screw in position with a screw driver while tightening the lock nut with a box-end wrench. Oh wait, he can't do that because he's doing the whole job one-handed.

The "valve adjustment tool" is called a feeler gauge. It's a metal shim of the desired thickness. They come in sets, find the size you need then fold all the rest back out of the way. The gauges the video maker is using look to be cheap quality, judging from the rivet holding the set together (a decent set will at least have a screw).

 

The "valve adjustment tool" I'm talking about is a specialty tool that lets you mess with the lock nut & the flat head screw at the same time.
If you watched "TE VIDEOS" doing the job, you'd have seen it.

For example:
There are versions that come with feeler gauge set.

 

Huh. Okay, I guess if there are serious access issues that could be useful. Usually a box end wrench and flat head screwdriver are the way to go.

I've always thought the challenge to valve adjustments was getting the feel of the feeler gauge right. Turning the tappet screw far enough to eliminate any misalignment of the feeler or oil film in the gap (resulting in excessive valve lash), but not so far as to start compressing the valve spring (resulting in inadequate valve lash).

Next time I do a valve job, I think I'll set up a dial indicator on the tappet head to check myself.

 

I have one of those. Works good. Box-end wrench and flathead screwdriver works, too.

 

I always find that when I tighten the locknut, it slightly reduces the gap. My technique is to get slight drag, then tighten to get a bit more drag on the gauge. I then recheck by doing a go, no go technique, ensuring that the thicker gauge won’t go in.

i always use bent style feeler gauges. I tried using flat style and all I can say is never again. It is hard to get flat gauges perfectly straight and even the slightest angle will cause an undersized gauge to drag.

also, DO NOT forget your ratchet on the crank bolt if you decide to do a test start after the job!

 

What, your ratchet can't handle ~20 revolutions per second?

 

I did and luckily it was my short ratcheting breaker bar that has a 180 swivel head and the rotational force just flung the wrench off. I could have damaged the crank bolt or the harmonic balancer and got lucky. Scared the crap outta me, let me tell you.

 

If this is beyond your capability and before you do any damage or more damage that's already been done,

Go to your local Honda Dealer mechanic and have them adjust your valves.

 

$600 later... 🙄

 

I'd rather pay a Honda Dealer 600 dollars than risk doing the Valve Adjustment myself causing damage.

"The Cheap Always Turns Out To Be Expensive"!