I'm told those particular air horns do not have a delay, but I know what you mean having had them before. 'Overkill' is not a concern because if I need my horns. I -need- my horns.

Probably getting the sport horns anyway since I really do not feel like dealing with the whole relay business anymore. And I need to shop LED headlights as I had a damn time seeing while driving last night even though other times were fine. It was like the light output was half of what it used to be.

I need to troll through all those threads to see what people ended up with as drop in replacements.

 

I'm planning on the sport horn upgrade too. Much louder than the stock horn.


As far as lighting Sylvania Silverstars seem like a good upgrade for brighter lighting.

 

Silverstars: yeah but how often are they burning out ?

Sport horns:
What is the actual difference in parts
DL162 Honda Upgrade Sport Horn Kit - DL162
or
DL163 Honda Upgrade Sports Horn Kit (pair) - DL163

Specs look identical except for Fit vs Accord and 2x the price. Also compared to : which seems to have a 420/350hz vs a 500/400hz system. The lower low frequency seems better overall

Edit here is another pair.. can we run 6 amp horns vs 3.5 through the stock fuse ?

 

DL163 not available according to your link

 

Right. The cheaper one is in stock, and I for the life of me cant figure out the difference in the two part numbers

 

When my stock lights burn out I'll get the Silverstars. Then I'll report how long they last.

 

For a cosmetic modification I have to say I like the JDM tail lights.
Those look great.

Seems almost logical that the whole thing should be illuminated.
Honda giving us "dummy" non-illuminated reflectors, seems kind of cheap.

 

Agreed. I have them and love them.

 

Dummy body parts that don't do anything other than look good have become fairly standard in cars in recent years. Fake air scoops in particular that don't actually allow the flow of any air are particularly common on "sports" cars. Fake fog light cutouts ..... there's no shortage of fake these days and the public seems to accept it. We're entering the era of "fake" so might as well get used to it.

 

 

Sure "fake" parts have been around literally for decades and decades.
I still in most cases I don't like them.

Don't give me cut outs that look like fog lights...give me fog lights.
Don't give me air scoops that are nothing but cosmetic.

My friend had a Kia Rio, with a huge spoiler on the trunk.

We aren't entering the era of "fake", it's always existed. Most of the time? Make it functional or I don't like it.

 

Try the Stebel Nautilus - that is what I installed. Take your pick from several models.

Yes I took the front bumper off and yes it kinda sags now (if you do not look at it specifically you can't really see it), but this is the case with bumpers which have never been taken off, there is a lot of talk about this. Might fix it in the future using some special clips (I saw them somewhere)
Might post photos if I can still find them, been 2 years almost since. One of the first things to change, the crappy original horn was hilarious. Got a Stebel on my bike as well in fact

 

has anyone tried to plastidip the rear chrome parts of the bumper? Thnking about doing that for the rear trim, as well as the silver on the front bumper, but instead of black, maybe blue to offset and have it pop a little.

Might be too large or a part on the rear though. Silver metallic base color

 

Not sure abut plasti dip (never used it, is it the pain you can peel off? how resistant is it to washing etc), what I have used with success on other vehicles is epoxy spray paint (satin black). Weather must be warm (or hot) and dry else you get a whitish horrible finish and it takes from 6hrs to 2 days to cure, but then it is VERY durable. Used on my 4WD plastic trims and alloy bullbar (with etch primer), no peeling whatsoever - once it weathers it becomes even tougher. That's what im gonna use on that chromey thing on the back and then the grille front if all ok - - really, there are only 2 chrome parts on this car, makes you wonder why??

 

Well - it is not that simple if you want to have park and brake in one strip - have not seen anything of that sort sold. You could feed the LED strip directly for Brake and through a resistor for Park - which is what I think they do here.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Just realised that the brake and park circuits interfere with each other after fitting this. Ie when applying the brake the touchscreen would dim and the park light indicator woudl light up! So the car computer thought I was switching on the park lights. The park lights do not actually switch on but that is not good of course... So what I had to do was to fit diodes on both park and brake leads going to the new bumper LED lights. 1N4004 or 1N4007 is plenty spec for the diodes and they are 4 for 80c (less for US cents). With the diodes, (+) cannot come through to the park lights when applying the brake and conversely (+) cannot come through to the brake when turning on the parkers.

Hope this makes sense. With China stuff, I had this problem a few times (lack of isolation eg for Brake / park LED cluster bulbs for rear). Diodes are simple to fit (well I solder them) but they may not be very straightforward for thos with zero electronics knowledge (this is basic stuff tho).

 

The new look.



The old look.

 

Looks terrific! I'm not a fan of black wheels, and the new ones look elegant.

 

thanks my dude!

 

This is kind of a evaluation/opinion cop out. But I would say I like both looks.
The lighter colored wheels, give a great contrast, and I think a lighter..fun look to the vehicle.
The darker colored wheels, obviously don't contrast, but also give a real sharp look.

If I had to pick?

I think I'd go with the lighter colored wheels, if only because I've seen the darker colored wheels on more vehicles.
Contrasting may not be as popular, but it's more unique.

But really, both looks are good.

 

RPF1's FTW! What wheel/tire spec did you go with?