2015 Fit Rear Wheel Alignment
 

For the 2007 Fit you cannot do the rear wheels alignment, in my case the rear tires wear down on the inside, the only way to minimize but not totally avoid the problem is to rotate the tires very often, but even doing that you wont be able to fix the problem entirely, therefore as long as I own and drive my 2007 AT Fit Sport I have to live with this damn issue for ever.


Question: Does 2015 Fit have the very same rear wheel alignment issue or not?
If yes, that's a major turn-off.


And another question: is it true that 2015 Fit is now built in... MEXICO???
If the answer is yes, that's another major turn-off, at least for me.


Thank you very much.

Si, senor.

The hubs are removeable and shimmable. Unlike the 2nd gen which had welded hubs. The first gen hubs are removable too.

Personally I went to TWO Honda Dealers in Toronto with this huge mechanical issue, plus 2-3 Canadian Tire Auto Service places, yes, I was told the exact details as in your post but all of them were straight forward and honest in advising me that they are not doing this type of job, at least I got an aprox estimate for this type of job, over $1K.


So, 2015 Honda Fit:


1) no rear wheel alignment,


2) built in Mexico,


Love Mitsubishi RVR GT as it's called in Canada, Outlander Sport GT in the States, built in... Illinois, great Ol' USA.

Muchas Gracias LOL

I understand your frustration. It is because it is not a warranty covered job. What alignment numbers do you have? If they are are WAY out of spec with enough bitching some dealers will cave, though most are dicks and wont service the customer right.


You can add the shims yourself on the 2015, get base alignment readings first, shim, then align again to see where its at. Its not difficult to add a shim, just a bit time consuming. I had to do it on my 1st gen car, mistakenly did it on my 2nd gen which had no affect (didn't know it was welded hubs till after I sold the car) and 2015 well no adverse tire wear issues ::knock on wood::

Next year, July 2016, I'm gonna have TEN years with my 2007 5AT Fit Sport, still runs pretty well but some 2-3 years ago replaced the engine plus a new starter and other mechanical things, about 400K miles in total, I'm ready to go for an SUV and LOVE the Mitsu RVR GT built in Illinois. Personally I buy cars built in Canada, States, Japan or S Korea only, no money for a brand new car built in EU, if you know what I mean. LOL


I have no idea why they build a such modern car with no chance on adjusting the alignment for rear wheels. Also I don't think many ppl know about this very major issue at all. Cause if they knew, sales for Fit would drop dramatically.


BTW, on my Fit I've always used aftermarket tires and rims (Enkei) as summer tires and wheels, 205/40/R17, plus limo tint all around on a black vehicle, 15% for front side windows and 5% for everywhere behind front seats, all together not a bad combination at all. Dec to March or April, snow tires of course.


And LOVE paddle shifters as well as I am a speed freak, Beltronics STI radar detector never stays home while I'm behind the wheels.


Stay warm and be safe out there.


Chris

I got a baseline reading after I lowered m GK and it has .42* left rear; .21* right rear. I'd like to cut that number in half and get it close to the right rear or within spec. What shim do I need? I saw the SPC EZ shim (red) but it is for the earlier model. Will it also work on a GK and do I clip it like shown in image 9 on the instructions? How much does it push the rear wheel out?

If anyone can help me calculate the orientation of the shim I would greatly appreciate it.

This. You can set toe and camber with shims. Any good alignment tech can do it, and even where I am in the most expensive car repair land in the world, it should be less than $225 for a GOOD alignment.

The red shim will work for the GK. EZShim makes a good video and step by step instructions. Basically you know you want to get the toe as close to 0 degrees as possible.


Whats your camber? It should be a negative camber for the rear wheels. Pretty sure spec is -1.6 to -1.8? Not entirely sure. If both camber angles are equal in the back then don't mess with it. With these shims you can select zero change to the camber but adjust toe only.




Some pictures of what you will find inside. There are 4 bolts had hold the hub and brake drum assembly to the axle beam. Best of luck.


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/pict...pictureid=9546
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/pict...pictureid=9545
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/pict...pictureid=9544

Camber was good before they shuffled the equipment around to make it look like they did something to the toe. -1.6 camber it great.
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psubgurnre.jpg

So I plugged the numbers into the calc but I'm not sure how accurate it is. I want to fix the toe before I take my car in for an alignment. I increased the the neg camb on the front and since I'm there, get it all corrected.
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...spckiim0e.jpeg

Yeah it looks pretty easy to install. I checked it out on my car when I had it apart to change to longer studs. Plastic between metal has me questioning the integrity but reviews seem to be ok.

If I can figure this out I'll post up pics and the process I used to do it.

Ok, I called the 1-800 number for help and I edited the photo. Since I want to keep the - camber like it is and just correct the + toe, I was advised of the results above. I will order the shim and select the numbers shown after installation I will get an alignment check the results. Stay tuned...

A bit of background on my car: I installed H&R springs and Koni struts. It lowered the front about 1.6"; rear about 1.3". I think that's why the caster is so high (it's ok with me though. I want more). Lower in the front steepened it. That's also why the -toe was so bad on the baseline reading. I'm not a fan of the cross caster; it's not adjustable. At least it isn't really bad though.

My spidey senses tell me the +toe on the left rear could be deliberate to compensate for "pull to the right" due to road crown. This also explains the cross caster. Both amounts in my car will influence the handling in a manner that will counter road crown. Either really weird coincidence or deliberate, you decide. My car tracks straight as can be after the alignment, even with that wonky rear toe.

Either way, I'm hoping I can install this shim myself in about 20min with a $16 part. I'm getting an alignment anyway because I want more neg camb in the front and with crash bolts, toe increases with camber so I have to fix it. I'm hoping to get this right the first time and "kill two birds with one stone".

Thanks for your input on this. Appreciated.