Car Info: 2015 Fit LX W/CVT
I'm having my new Fit delivered tom0orrow and already I want to make some (minor) mods.
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Can you good folks tell me if its possible to do the following:
Turn off the DRLs
Disable the tire pressure monitor system


There are more things I want to do but for now this is what I'm looking for.

 

Yeah, that tire pressure thing is something else, isn't it? I haven't figured out why it comes on (when it seems like it shouldn't). The last time for me was extreme colds when traveling to WI a few weeks ago, but it has come on some other weird times.

 

I believe that you can pull a fuse to disable the DRLs. The owner's manual lists fuse 17 in Under-Hood Fuse Block A and fuse 25 in Interior Fuse Block A. Pulling one or both of these should disable the DRLs.

TPMS is pretty easy to fix if it falses, just by pushing a button. There is no direct way to disable it. The common fix is a piece of electrical tape over the warning light.

 

Just out of curiosity, why do you want to disable these?

 

Hello Bucky,
To answer your question about disabling the DRL's.
The DRL's drastically reduce the service life of the bulbs because they are on all of the time your driving. These are a PITA to replace. But the main reason is our local police. They (police) will use ANY excuse to pull you over (on the road-side) for a fishing expedition looking for anything else they can find. Honestly, I'm fed up with that type of "law enforcement".


As for the TPMS.
This is the worst government over-reach I've seen in the automotive industry. I'm a tried & true car enthusiast. I enjoy servicing and maintaining my cars. My average car service life is 14 to 18 years. When I buy a car I do not buy it with the intention of trading it in 3 or 4 years.
My maintenance habits is one of preventive service. I do not need another idiot light to tell me to check my tire pressure.


The TPMS is nothing but a revenue stream for "Stealerships" and tire shops. They (TPMS) are totally unnecessary for the average car owner who is interested in maintaining and preserving the value of their car.

 

The TPMS was forced upon us by Ford and Firestone when they screwed up by underspecifying and underinflating the tires on the Explorer. This, combined with poor suspension design resulted in some deaths. Rather than put the blame where it belonged, Ford and Firestone chose to blame owners when tires strayed below the already low specified pressures. Getting the feds to require TPMS was just a dodge from taking responsibility.

 

Does removing either of those fuses also affect anything else electrical other than the DRLs?

 

For the DRL, pull the 25A fuse that is located exactly in the middle position
of the interior fuse box.

 

Car arrived from the "Stealership" and in less than 3 hours of ownership the first mod is done (Delete DRL's). Now I'm on the slippery slop of Mod fever...

 

Just pull the fuse from inside the cabin, not the one under the hood. Nothing else will be affected.

 

This may be a dumb question, but if you're on top of your maintenance wouldn't that keep the TPMS light from coming on in the first place anyway??

 

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I remember when modifying a car involved a bit more than pulling a fuse!

 

 

The DRL circuit utilizes the high beam filaments in the headlamps, but at about 1/2 voltage, so I believe any reduction in bulb life will be negligible if any. My experience tends to bear this out as every headlamp I've had burn out on the Fit has lost its low beam filament, never the high beam filament.

 

Done! No more DRLs stealing power, and therefore fuel (albeit pretty small), from my engine.

 

I want to disable my 2015 Fit DRLs because I think the low voltage supplied to the high beam filament screws things up with the battery charging circuits once the HID bulbs are installed.

I installed a set of HID lamps and the circuitry with ballasts etc and everything seemed to be fine for about three days. After the three days of mostly daytime driving, my battery was completely flat. There wasn't even enough power to operate the door unlocking solenoid. I initially thought I had left something on that drained it. I boosted the battery and drove for about 1 hour thinking this would recharge the battery. I went into Starbucks and grabbed a coffee and came back out and the battery was flat. Another boost and this time, there were no lights.
There was no indication on the dash of excessive drain or charging of the battery (oh for the good old days of ammeters).

I drove home and removed the HIDs and reinstalled the H4s. Factory lighting all working fine. Drove again for a half hour and the battery was charged sufficiently that things returned to normal.

Here is what I think happened.
The DRL circuit feeds about 7 volts to the ballast for the HID lamps. Initially there is enough amperage (up to 7.5 amps) to trigger the HID high beam and solenoid that switches the filament location within the reflector. For the first day or two, that seems to work fine. As the battery runs down, there is no longer sufficient oomph to run the HID but because it is daylight, you don't really notice that they aren't firing. The battery continues to run down with just enough power from the alternator to keep the car running.

I may not have all this exactly right but discussing it with a mechanic friend, I am not likely far off.

I will try to remove the DRL fuses (there are 2) and try to locate the DRL relay to determine how best to disable the DRLs. From the owners manual it looks like the hand brake is the only other element that has some aspect in the DRLs (on start, if brake on, no DRL; If brake off, DRL on)

Then to reinstall the HIDs I will just use low beam as DRL

 

So I have pulled the the fuse at position 25 (7.5A labeled Day Light) from the fuse block inside the car beneath and to the left of the steering wheel.

Despite the owner's manual that also indicates a fuse for DRL is under the hood, there is no fuse at postion 17 in that block.

I have verified that DRLs are now disabled. There is no warning lamp on the dash indicating DRL failure (nor little wrench or check engine light.)

Low beam headlights are normally operational as are the high beams. No additional action/reaction for hand brake on or off. All turn signals, parking and rear running lights are all normal.

Drove the car for about an hour to ensure there was no other surprises.

Later tonight I will reinstall the ballasts and HID lights.

 

it allows you to go dark at night if your doing something you should not be doing like stalking or hiding from the poe poe after you did something you should not have

 

You are operating under the flawed assumption that the "average" owner cares about such things. From what I can see, the "average" owner wants a self-driving car so they can talk, text, and play Pokémon-Go instead of having to drive.