Having weird starter issues (2015 Fit)
 

Hi all - forgive me in advance! I'm a new car owner, don't know too much about cars, and am hoping someone can assist prior to taking my car to the dealer.

Bought a new 2015 Honda Fit from dealer in April 2015. About 37,000 miles on it. Have had no issues until now. I got back into my car after an appointment yesterday, pushed the start button, and everything immediately turned off (engine did not start), and the brake pedal became locked (couldn't depress it/push it down). I kept trying to start the car and push down the brake - nothing worked. While I was on the phone with AAA, I tried it again 10 minutes later and wham - it turned on. However, the "anti-theft" screen came up and instructed me to hit the power button on my center console in order to disable it.

It was driving fine as I went to my next destination, but after my phone had been plugged into the car via my USB port for a while, it started turning on and off and there was a static noise, and the center console started turning on and off. No battery lights or indicators came on.

I parked my car, turned it off, tried to start again, and same problem occurred. Brake locked up, no lights would come on, and my keyless sensor button wouldn't work, either. After several tries, my overhead lights turned on again, and the car started right up. Same anti-theft message on the center console. I noticed the battery was running low a few weeks ago on my keyless button, so I figured I would get my car back home and get my backup key, and see if that solved the problem (this all occurred this evening after my dealer had closed, so I couldn't call them).

Unfortunately - I got home, retrieved my backup keyless button, and had the same issue happen again (although the car started up much quicker this time).

I have NO idea what's going on with it. I am just over my warranty mileage (3 yrs/36,000) and am wondering if this is a common issue with Fits...? I plan on taking to the dealer first thing in the morning but still have to get to work. In the meantime, hoping someone can offer advice.

Thank you!

​​​I would test your battery first. Any of the major auto parts stores like auto zone or advanced auto would be able to do it for free. Honda replaced batteries on many early fits under warranty because they were defective. Yours may have just lasted long enough to get out of warranty unfortunately.

Thank you - no battery indicator is coming on; that's what's weird. Would the 5 yr/powertrain warranty cover this?

I'm not sure if the powertrain warranty would cover it, you'd have to read the fine print. Don't hold your breath though.

mouse ate ur harness?

MY CAR DOES THIS!

So happy to hear its not just me...

Usually 2-3 times/year so far, I push the start button and everything dies. Not a single electronic works...

I've found that most times if you pop the hood, everything comes back to life immediately as soon as you pull the hood latch under the dash. If that doesn't work, pulling off the positive battery terminal for a second always works.

I cannot explain it and my dealer has witnessed it happen. They replaced my battery under warranty but can't find any other cause.

This has never happened to me i dont have pushbutton start but if the antitheft on the radio is coming on it means the radio LOST 12V power. battery or connection would be first guess. i drained my battery and hooked up the charger without disconnecting battery, a few hrs later i sat down and the blue eco dash lites were glowing and the car wasnt running!!!! god knows what electronics are connected. Car works fine now. fingers Xed!!

DO you have remote start?

The battery light indicates that the charging system isn't working properly, not so much that the battery is getting old or going bad. It really should be an alternator light, but most people probably would have no clue what it is (especially after the alternator has been made into an icon).

I agree with the others, that what you're seeing is entirely consistent with a dead battery or a bad/loose connection to it. The brake pedal getting hard to depress is simply the power brakes not having power anymore. The boost operates based on vacuum, and there's an accumulator, a sort of canister that "stores" the vacuum pressure. When the engine isn't running this is good for one or two pedal pushes. (When the engine is running, the vacuum comes from suction in the engine intake at idle or low throttle settings.) The pedal can still be pushed and the brakes still work without power assist, but it takes a lot more force.

It would be a good idea for most everybody to take their car to a safe open area sometime and get a feel for how the steering and braking feels without power assist. Many people who aren't familiar with the systems rather naturally figure the brakes or steering completely inoperative if the assist is gone for some reason, since it feels locked up in comparison to normal, when in reality they still do have control.