Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

Unofficial Honda FIT Forums (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/)
-   3rd Generation (2015+) (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-generation-2015/)
-   -   2018 Fit, How much did you pay OTD? (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-generation-2015/96485-2018-fit-how-much-did-you-pay-otd.html)

hippiefreak 08-17-2017 05:12 PM

2018 Fit, How much did you pay OTD?
 
Excited to buy a 2018 Fit EX-L CVT.

I'm not experienced at buying cars so doing endless research. Most important is price at the moment.

blazej 08-17-2017 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hippiefreak (Post 1378562)
Excited to buy a 2018 Fit EX-L CVT.

I'm not experienced at buying cars so doing endless research. Most important is price at the moment.

Try Turecar or Edmonds for comparison prices. When I bought my 09, there really wasn't much wiggle room, because Honda didn't make that many Fits (at that time) and it wasn't a high margin vehicle anyway. But one of those sites should give you a starting point at least.

susieQ 08-19-2017 02:20 PM

Try this website. Shows you the invoice: New 2018 Honda Fit Prices - NADAguides

Also try kbb.com and TrueCar to see what people around your area are paying for the car. Then get quotes online from the dealerships in your area and compare. Save time by negotiating through email:).

hensta 10-05-2017 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hippiefreak (Post 1378562)
Excited to buy a 2018 Fit EX-L CVT.

I'm not experienced at buying cars so doing endless research. Most important is price at the moment.

I am also in the market; so far best offer is $1200 off MSRP for a 2018 EX with CVT here in Northern CA. Really like the Honda Sense addition with automatic braking and Adaptive Cruise control for '18.

Curious if others have found better deals for a 2018 FIT?

Rob H 10-06-2017 01:17 AM

Doesn't matter what anyone paid. All that matters is what they sell for in your area or how far you're willing to fly/drive to buy for the price you want to pay or what someone else paid. I had to drive over 60 miles from my home to save another $400 from what my local dealers would sell for. Local dealers pricing was their internet price. Something that their local competitors could easily find. All three within 20 miles from my home were exactly the same price. Almost like legal price fixing.

Zachary Vergara 10-06-2017 03:54 PM

Starting to look through the interwebs and I am only seeing that on average $500 discount off MSRP is obtainable. I see here that someone was quoted $1,200 off. That seems like a REALLY great deal.

If anyone can share pricing that would be great. I am looking to buy this month.
Thanks in advance.

z

kenchan 10-07-2017 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob H (Post 1382542)
Doesn't matter what anyone paid. All that matters is what they sell for in your area or how far you're willing to fly/drive to buy for the price you want to pay or what someone else paid.

yep, a car is only worth the amount you are willing to pay. if you think you got a good deal, then that's all that matters really.

it is a good idea to check around the internet for savings to see what others are paying to gauge where the market price is in your area though.

ive bought so many new cars that these days i just do the price negotiation while im test driving the car im buying. the sales guy would do backwards calculation and we shake hands before the test drive is even over. savings here and there is definitely nice, but if a car is worth a certain price to me, it's fine if i paid a little more or less vs wat others had paid in my area. buying a car is fun and should be enjoyable.

Zachary Vergara 10-12-2017 10:32 AM

Kenchan, thanks for the response. Yes, in 2010 I purchased a fit for sticker price. I just told him to cut all the adds. The adds were around $1900 Tint protect package pinstriping etc. They easily took them off the price and it was an easy transaction.

I just purchased a 2017 Passat and gave the honda fit to my oldest.

kenchan 10-12-2017 03:03 PM

sounds great zachary! congrats on the new ride.

shanealanwerchan 10-20-2017 02:40 PM

I am shopping also for a 2018 EX after research I found a $1000 dollar savings buy using my I phone and car play and not add Honda Navigation. Can anyone tell me any other good reason to add Honda Navigation? Is there much difference in price in building and ordering your own fit compared to buying off the lot? I have read that all the paint colors these day do not have many issues with fading with that being said which color do you think would hold up best in hot sunny weather. Can you order the fancy exhaust from Sport model to a FIT EX Model. Thank you

calafricano 11-27-2017 07:52 PM

2018 fit sport 6mt 16k

kenchan 11-27-2017 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calafricano (Post 1386735)
2018 fit sport 6mt 16k

otd means out the door price including tax, etc. only 16k? sounds like a super deal.

calafricano 11-27-2017 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1386739)
otd means out the door price including tax, etc. only 16k? sounds like a super deal.

after taxes and all 17,200 and i put 4k down

kenchan 11-27-2017 08:40 PM

ok sounds reasonable

Pumpkintacos 11-27-2017 10:16 PM

Too much. OTD paid $21,700 for my 2018 Honda Fit EX CVT. Dealership wanted more but I talked them down a bit. Whatever I'm happy I have a car that runs.

FIT-to-be-tied 11-28-2017 11:01 AM

It's difficult to compare pricing from one region to another - too many variables at play that are region-specific.

That being said, the best price you'll get is when the dealers are clearing the lots to make room for the new model year. The problem with that strategy is you are buying a car that is already a year old (resale wise) but this would less of an issue if you intend on keeping it for many years.

If I was buying a 2018 right now, I would decide what I want in terms of trim package and extra features and then send an email to dealers in my area saying "This is what I want. What can you do for me?" There is not a lot of wiggle room with Fits but there is some and playing the dealers off each other would likely get you there.

52club 12-20-2017 09:47 PM

$22500 for an EX-L CVT OTD, this includes 7% local tax (along with all other fees), hope this helps.

breds2k 12-22-2017 05:13 PM

This thread makes ZERO sense and cant be a bargaining chip for anything productive. You have no idea what state tax is, license/plate fees, prep fees ect. OTD pricing is useless to compare with 100% of the time and unless you are not trading a car the physical price of the vehicle does not matter.


More importantly, if you are financing and trading a car in you WANT to negotiate firmly off of the price of your trade in. Reason being is that a trade in is money down. More money down on a price is better than less money down and a lower price from the banks point of view. I had a credit issue with getting a second car loan when I purchased my accord and didn't want to put money down to get the approval. After some deliberation, we increased the sale cost of the car by $2000 and increase my trade in $2000 as well to work out the same but to look as if I am putting more down on the trade, got the deal done and approved.


When I bought the fit, I got an AMAZING deal. Actually was going to give my dad $8000 for his 15 Fit as a family buy and wanted to drive one to make sure we liked it as his was across the country. I didn't even realize when going down it was the day before the last day of the month. The sales guy wasn't pushy but wanted to know what stopped us from buying a car and if there was ANYTHING he could do to make it happen. He then went further to admit (and this is the key to car buying) its the end of them month and they have a number they need to hit.


So I pointed to my car which was a total POS that my wife bought new before we were together. 2007 Chevy Cobalt base model, shit brown/gold, stained brown cloth, 150k bunch of evap codes that had been there for a year, no sticker, needed a rack (steering clunked bad when turning the wheel) needed a whole new front end bushings/struts/endlinks/cabs... Car was a TOILET. Figured id be lucky to get $500 right? I just said as a joke, give me $4000 and we can do the deal now. Manager comes back and says $3000 and goes for a hand shake. DONE deal. Car was $14,150 new and literally couldn't be private sold for like $2000 in needed so much work. I saw the sales guy move the car right away and he saw me outside and said "my boss didn't see the car otherwise we would've been screwed".


Moral of that long story. Shop on the last day or two of the month and ask for insane money for your trade rather than deliberating off sticker price. Reason I saw that is because we aren't talking about about a $50,000 truck with $8000 in rebates and $1600 in dealer hold back. Invoice on these cars is usually only like $800 off sticker and the dealerships MAY if they want to make a deal go another few hundred max. Hope that helps. I felt as though my deal was equivalent to getting $2500 off sticker and $500 for the trade if you want to think of it that way. More trade value equals higher money down and less sales tax.


-Bob

52club 12-22-2017 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by breds2k (Post 1388922)
This thread makes ZERO sense and cant be a bargaining chip for anything productive. You have no idea what state tax is, license/plate fees, prep fees ect. OTD pricing is useless to compare with 100% of the time and unless you are not trading a car the physical price of the vehicle does not matter.


More importantly, if you are financing and trading a car in you WANT to negotiate firmly off of the price of your trade in. Reason being is that a trade in is money down. More money down on a price is better than less money down and a lower price from the banks point of view. I had a credit issue with getting a second car loan when I purchased my accord and didn't want to put money down to get the approval. After some deliberation, we increased the sale cost of the car by $2000 and increase my trade in $2000 as well to work out the same but to look as if I am putting more down on the trade, got the deal done and approved.


When I bought the fit, I got an AMAZING deal. Actually was going to give my dad $8000 for his 15 Fit as a family buy and wanted to drive one to make sure we liked it as his was across the country. I didn't even realize when going down it was the day before the last day of the month. The sales guy wasn't pushy but wanted to know what stopped us from buying a car and if there was ANYTHING he could do to make it happen. He then went further to admit (and this is the key to car buying) its the end of them month and they have a number they need to hit.


So I pointed to my car which was a total POS that my wife bought new before we were together. 2007 Chevy Cobalt base model, shit brown/gold, stained brown cloth, 150k bunch of evap codes that had been there for a year, no sticker, needed a rack (steering clunked bad when turning the wheel) needed a whole new front end bushings/struts/endlinks/cabs... Car was a TOILET. Figured id be lucky to get $500 right? I just said as a joke, give me $4000 and we can do the deal now. Manager comes back and says $3000 and goes for a hand shake. DONE deal. Car was $14,150 new and literally couldn't be private sold for like $2000 in needed so much work. I saw the sales guy move the car right away and he saw me outside and said "my boss didn't see the car otherwise we would've been screwed".


Moral of that long story. Shop on the last day or two of the month and ask for insane money for your trade rather than deliberating off sticker price. Reason I saw that is because we aren't talking about about a $50,000 truck with $8000 in rebates and $1600 in dealer hold back. Invoice on these cars is usually only like $800 off sticker and the dealerships MAY if they want to make a deal go another few hundred max. Hope that helps. I felt as though my deal was equivalent to getting $2500 off sticker and $500 for the trade if you want to think of it that way. More trade value equals higher money down and less sales tax.


-Bob

Your first paragraph is pretty amazing, I'm new here so I'm going to move past that to my experiences. First never negotiate a trade and price of the car you are buying as one variable. While the dealer will try to bring both into one equation they are really two separate transactions. Mixing them together causes confusion for many people, which is where dealers can really take advantage of someone. It is about as bad as working from a monthly payment.

The OTD price is very helpful in numerous ways. The most important is this is what you are paying for the car. Sure as you say, this can change with trade in values, but it is the one way you can compare apples to apples between dealers. If you give an OTD price on a web site here, really the only variable a poster would need is the county/state you are purchasing the car. That way they can research the taxable rate, and get the actual price in their area.

At the end of the day the more information you come into the dealer with, the better off you are likely to be. As others have said, the best thing you can do is to pick out the options you want/need. That way you avoid getting upsold, and can more easily compare prices. Then the end goal should always be an out the door price.

kenchan 12-22-2017 07:47 PM

sounds like someone recently learned how to buy a car and suddely turned into a super expert car buying god. :D

i consider myself a seasoned new car buyer (over 30 new personal car buying experience) and i will agree that "the more information you come into the dealer with, the better off you are likely to be" statement above. :nod:


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:54 AM.