Glad to hear you reached a solution.

 

bumping for visibility


OP, perhaps edit the title to include something like "SOLVED - INJECTORS" or something along those lines?

 

 

A small can of Seafoam in the gas twice a year will really help with the injectors,, Nearly every direct injected engine now has a tsb for using a "injection cleaner" regularly.. It also keeps the cat cleaner...

Cheers

 

any instructions on how to change the injectors anywhere ?

 

there is now

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1423004

 

I just purchased a new set of injectors to solve the same problem! I will post updates!!

 

 

Hey @4d_POWER

So I attempted to install the new injectors but had trouble getting them in.
I did set all 4 on the fuel rail and when trying to insert them, they wouldnt budge.
I noticed that the Teflon seals near the tip dont look properly formed/set which I am assuming is the reason why they wont go in. And someone in the TFC community said i need special tools to fix this.
You said you didnt use any special tools. Can you describe your experience with what you did to get those damn new injectors in?
I was beginning to believe someone on Ebay sold me the incorrect set!

Thanks for your help in advance!

Cheers

 

I followed the Chilton directions. I coated the cylinder holes with oil, started the injectors in the holes, and snugged them down with the bolts. Not sure where your issue was coming from.

Hope you get it figured out.

 

So I finally got the new injectors in only to find out it DID NOT solve the "Check Charge System" + CEL/VSA/Low tire pressure lights issue. I'm pretty bumbed out at this point. I'm thinking it really may be an alternator issue. Anyways, I bought 3rd party extended warranty when I purchased the GK used at a Toyota dealership. Funny thing is, it explicitly states that Fuel Injectors are not covered, which is the reason I chose to do the repair myself. Since I have other issues that are covered: VTC rattle, Transmission Mount Creeking, Lose Clutch fork sounds, i figured I just send the damn car in and get all the repairs done by Honda. So on my way to Oakland Honda first thing in the morning. Wish me luck fam.. I really want to keep my GK, but if these problems persist.. I may just very well give up and part the car out! 😭🥺 stay tuned!

Repairs done so far:
-Replaced spark plugs
-Replaced Fuel Injectors + Fuel Joint Pipe
-Replaced battery
-Replaced Battery Sensor on Negative connection side


Ps, man I just realized I havent updated my Build Thread, so many more parts to throw on, held back by these issues..

 

What does your scanner say is causing the CEL?

 

My current scanners are trash, just ordered a new one recommended by @evilchargerfan , BlueDriver OBDII tool from Amazon. Comes in tomorrow.

Also, things didnt work out with Honda this morning, apparently my service contract stipulates that if the Issuing dealership is within 40miles, I have to go to them... all the way in fuckin Napa Valley... fuckery. So gonna continue with my self repairs attempts until I figure out how I can get Warranty work done to my car.

 

update, what did the bluedriver scan show?

 

A bunch of CEL's came up for me, but instead of misfire my cel's are for:

p0171-system too lean bank 1
u0401-invalid data received from ecm/pcm "A" : event information
u3006-control module input power "A" : circuit voltage below threshold

you guys think my situation is similar? fwiw... car seems to drive fine... and 1 of the cel (the engine CEL itself) did go away after 12 hours / a few miles of driving around town.

 

I had the same issue on my 2016 Ex-l with the cel coming on but going off after 1 or 2 days. This CEL started coming on & off not long after I started doing short trips to the office. 34k miles on odo. Dealer told me same thing with upstream O2 sensor needing replacement. $800 later I thought the issue was resolved. 2 weeks later CEL comes on and stays on. That dreaded catalytic converter efficiency below threshold code comes up and this time CEL stays on permanently. Dealer quotes me $3000 (cad) for a new cat with no aftermarket cat options (cat is out of warranty apparently). Dealer resets CEL and I switch to premium gas to keep things afloat for a couple of weeks. Got rid of car faster than you can say Huckleberry Finn. I had 2 GK's, a 2015 and a 2016: nothing but issues with their direct injection earth dreams engines. But besides those issues these cars were actually quite good.

 

So how did running 91 octane go for you? I thought in another thread it was recommended to you by the dealer? Did it fix the CEL issues?

 

Great question! TBH, I ran the car for less than 400kms on 91 before trade-in. I had about half tank of whatever 87 I had to run through 1st (after CEL reset), and then I switched to 91 when I ran out of bars on the gas gauge on that 87 fill. I really have no idea if it kept the CEL away, but the CEL did not come back during that time. When the CEL would come on and off, I kept track of the distance traveled in between and one time it was just over 3000 kms, while other times it was usually under 1000 kms. Total # of times CEL came on and off was about 6 times until I went to the dealer. Only the CEL would come on ... no the other ones. Car ran fine, no misfires (that I could sense), so I think the root issue is a worn out catalytic converter that initially triggered the O2 sensor too lean condition. I guess those short trips really took their toll on the cat. Car ran fine though; never skipped a beat.

Re: p0171-system too lean bank 1
u0401-invalid data received from ecm/pcm "A" : event information
u3006-control module input power "A" : circuit voltage below threshold

In terms of the other codes that you (evilchargerfan) got regarding voltages and stuff ... I want to share with you my recent experience on my work van. My ABS light came on about 1 year ago and the computer threw a code related to a speed sensor malfunction. I had no ABS and I lost the stability control as well. I went to my local shop and they replaced the sensor ... no luck. So the guy wanted to start replacing other brake components such as the ABS controller and such. I got a feeling that the brake system is actually fine and the issue is rooted elsewhere. I decided to drive as is until my transmission blew a coolant line seal and I lost half the fluid on the hwy. Went to this other shop and they diagnosed a battery that no longer had enough power to feed everything (weak battery). They replaced the battery and voila ... ABS problem solved. I never had issues starting ... not even in cold weather. So I am surprised that the issue was the battery. I also had codes saying stuff like the transmission ecm communication fault to the main computer. That also got solved through the battery replacement. So you may have a battery that needs replacement .... just my uneducated guess.