2015 Fit Wouldn't Crank, Jumped Fine, "Check Charge System" Message Came On...
 

Hi, folks. I'm new to the forum and am hoping for some feedback on a problem I'm having with my 2015 Fit LX Auto (30K miles). This morning, I noticed that it started a little weakly. It turns out that my wife noticed the same thing a few times while out shopping yesterday. We drove to work, parked it for 7 hours, and then it wouldn't start at quitting time. Just rapid clicking and fading instrument panel when I turned the key. Called a local towing company, they brought out a jump starter (voltage tested at 12.7 prior to trying to crank it), and it started immediately. At that point, for the first time, I received a "Check Charge System" message (but no warning lights). I drove it to Advance and the battery tested good. Car cranked without a problem, I cleared the message on the display, and drove seven miles home without incident. Once home, I left it running for about half an hour, turned it off, and it cranked again with no problem. However, the "Check Charge System" message reappeared (still no warning lights). I tried to crank it about an hour layer and it's back to where I started the afternoon -- when I turn the key it clicks, the dash blanks out, and it won't start. I've searched the forums and found a few relevant discussions, but I'm still a little foggy on what the problem might be. Has anyone had a similar experience?

Likely an issue with the alternator. Check the serpentine belt tension to make sure it isn't loose. Check the voltage at the battery while running at idle and at about 3k rpms. Autozone or similar may be able to check this for you. You could also check for codes while there. If the voltage doesn't rise when the car is revved up, it isn't charging the battery you're just draining it by driving. I personally wouldn't drive 50 miles until sorting out the problem.

Thanks for the quick replies. As best I can tell, the wiring all looks good. I see a little corrosion on the negative battery terminal. Positive is pretty clean Serpentine belt is tight and looks good. Luck would have it that this happens less than a year after 36-month warranty was up. Now I have to decide whether to take it to the nearest dealer (20 miles away) or trust a local shop to find and fix the problem. If I can get it jumped again, any reason why I shouldn't drive it in, or would it be wise to have it towed?

Service Manual List the following possible causes. Since it ran for a half an hour it should make the 20 mile trip. I would have someone follow you and test the voltage. Battery is only 3 years old but could have a bad internal cell. I know it passed the test but idk how accurate they are.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...4328ea1ab0.png

Thanks again for your help. Since it's dead again now, I hope that I'll be able to get it running with the DieHard charger that's been sitting in my closet unused for a decade. This is going to demonstrate my ignorance, but does anyone know whether I should choose the "conventional low maintenance" or "maintenance free deep cycle" setting? The manual doesn't seem to address this at all. I'm guessing the former given some vague notion that Deep Cycle has something to do with marine batteries...

check your grounds. make sure they are tight. clean the terminal. do all that before u charge the battery with a charger.

a car will start after it was jumped even if the chassis ground is no good.

You don't have a deep cycle battery in your car. Use the conventional setting.

I've seen batteries that tested good in fact be bad. My son had to put a battery in his 2015 Fit a month ago. Get the alternator tested to be sure.

As stated above clean those connections.

Tried to crank the car this morning (haven't charge the battery yet) and no go (just the rapid clicking). Tried a second time and heard a little life in it. Tried a third time and it cranked. Since it wouldn't crank last night and nothing has changed, does this tell me anything? Also, the "check charge system" message isn't displaying even though it was the last time that I successfully cranked it yesterday.

Quick addendum: Let it run for about 30 minutes and then tried to drive it. Backing out of the driveway I heard a weird humming/vibration noise when I turned the wheels, and a couple of warning lights flickered on the dash (low tire pressure and stability control). Decided to park it.

Bad diodes in the charge system. Replace the alternator.

Thanks. Was afraid that these latest issues pointed to an alternator problem, but, at the same time, 30K miles and the alternator fails? I bought a Honda so I *wouldn't* have to worry about problems like this. It's been solid up to this point, but this worries me.

This is a subjective question, of course, but I'll ask nonetheless -- what are your opinions on trusting a local shop or chain like Meineke vs taking it to the dealer? The latter is 20+ miles away, while I'm within 5 miles of several local options. Since the steering is acting up, I'm thinking that I might need to have it towed.

Wasserball wins the prize. Took it to Auto Zone, had the alternator tested, and their machine said that the diodes failed. It's cranking reliably, but weakly, today, so I'm hoping it will crank tomorrow so that I can drive it to the dealership and pay a ridiculous amount of money to replace an alternator that shouldn't have failed yet. Also would have been helpful if the battery light had come on since the alternator presumably isn't functioning properly. All I've seen so far has been the "check charge system" message, which appeared yesterday but not at all today. My frustration with Honda aside, I really do appreciate everyone's help in diagnosing the problem.

I'd say you are better off with the dealer. Those chain places will bend you over & let you have it. At least the dealer has tech's who know your car. Charge your battery before you head to the dealer. If not you may not make it there.

Buy a jump battery to keep in your car. It's a good thing to have around. I carry one in both our cars. I haven't had to jump mine, but I have helped two other people out.

Occasionally these go on sale.

Thanks for the advice on charging the battery. I'll do it today so there's plenty of time. Came across conflicting info online -- should I disconnect the battery prior to charging it, or can I leave it connected?

Glad you figured it out. That was my first thought/comment was the alternator.

I figure it was the battery. Given the age & the small size Honda uses. Sorry it is the alternator, it costs a bit more. Have no fear the battery will go & running it down a few times did it no good. Consumables, cars have lots of them. Hope your dealer visit goes well. Honda's are still reliable cars.

Yeah, I figure that I should go ahead and replace the battery at the same time. I hope that Auto Zone got it wrong about the alternator, but I'll just have to wait and see. In the meantime, I'm even more confused about whether or not I should disconnect the battery before charging it. I'm seeing all kinds of conflicting info and I'm not sure who to believe. Standard "how to charge your battery" web pages usually imply that you don't need to, but then I run into people arguing vehemently that you're a fool if you don't disconnect it because you might fry the sensitive electronics in modern cars.

Fanatics tend to discredit themselves by being unable to see any viewpoint other than their own.

Anyway, in the manual in the section on "Jump Starting" (from another vehicle or some kind of booster/charger) Honda says nothing about disconnecting the battery. I don't see anything specifically on charging but it's really the same thing as jumping. If you want to disconnect your battery to charge it there's nothing wrong with that, it just takes a couple extra minutes.

As long as you don't hook it up backwards you'll be fine. If you are truly worried disconnect the negative terminal. Me I wouldn't bother.

I'm hoping it is your battery & not your alternator too. Hope you get lucky ernie.