2018+ Wiring Harness Info
 

Hey All,


Metra seems to have updated their site to include the parts for the 2018+ Head units. Has anyone been able to confirm???

71-1731 - Female connector that goes to the OEM radio, comes fully populated. Metra Online

70-1731 - Male connectors that will connect to the factory wiring harness. You would buy this when interfacing an aftermarket HU. It will have extra parts you wont need if you intend on keeping the factory HU. Metra Online

Seems the 2018+ with the lack of the LaneWatch feature has removed a large compatibility barrier from adding an aftermarket HU. I love the feature on mine, but I understand why it was eliminated. It wasn't because of the AM compatibility, but more because of the lack of software support. It is very difficult to AIM the camera if it needed to be replaced. Most dealershits dont know how to do it, and if they do its big $$$ to do it. If the software interface had been more friendly, it be easier for the owner to service rather than the dealer.

Anyways, if anyone can confirm these plugs work please let me know. I have the pinout for the speaker outputs and remote turn on pins you need. If you need the others I have the service docs to reference if you are doing something more advanced.

hi i used your recommended dc 12v 555 timer relay but since my headunit does not have the 12v turn on blue/white remote wire i used the acc red wire to turn on my amplifier. The problem is the relay does not kick in after power on , but the module itself is turned on (red led light up) with a dim blue led. I measured the vcc point with dmm and it read 14.8v dc. After some random occasion the relay does kick in but it is way out than the 10s range.

That is how I had my relay hooked up, and it failed exactly as you describe. It is hit or miss for quality with the delay timer. The 555 timer chip needs to have pin 6 lifted to work properly. Its the "threshhold" pin. It operates too close to the supply voltage and prevents the relay from triggering. It also does not help that the supply section is not properly filtered needing a larger capacitor to handle the power spikes in a vehicle.

Best advice is try to lift pin 6 and see if it fixes the issue.

HI.. im not from US but i think fit3 GK wiring diagram will be more or less the same
im trying to put this HU into my fit 2018, because i like this HU more,

below is the A-socket pin-out diagram for fit 2015-2017, but may i know where is this k-line wiring goes to? any wiring diagram for this k-line wiring?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...49acc1ead2.jpg

Not sure if this thread is still alive but i'm wiring a 2015 Honda Fit LX standard HU to a LC2i. I'm trying to figure which pins/wire leads from the wiring harness would go to +12 V and ground on the LC2i. Does anyone know?

**Edit**
I'm looking around and it looks like I should just common the connections with what the amp is being fed by the battery.

I dont have the specs for the LX head unit, maybe someone else can chime in here. I wouldn't be a bit suprised if the factory harness is the same as the EX harness, just less pins because of less features. Cant say with 100% certainty.

I have the australian model GK5 jazz/fit 2014. want to replace the oem head unit
I think our model would be equal to your EX. we didn't get the nav system until 2019 over here. car play and android is available on the 2020 release which is the last Jazz for australia.
going to install the kenwood wireless mirroring unit, have a reversing camera only and no lane watch camera
only problems I see is loosing the vehicle fuel details in the info screen and the usb in the console box between the front seats
and loosing the usb and hdmi under the air con and not being able to change the clock in the dash.
with the reversing camera are you able to just use a after market camera without changing the cabling or does this have be completely recabled.
seems like you cannot recable the usb just have install in the glovebox.
not sure what the oem head units are like in the 2019 but 2014 the touch is pretty unresponsive at times you have to press it three times to get it respond.

The only way that I was able to retain HDMI was to use a HDMI to RCA convertor from Radio Shack. It is self powered unlike other adapters. It's a work around and won't give full screen capability. I've only tested it once and really don't use HDMI at all. You can say it was just for a project for curiosity. I used a Kenwood CA-C3AV AV Cable for Video AV Input & RadioShack HDMI-to-Composite Converter.

Just like the HDMI, I've only used my Android Auto feature including mirroring only once. It works but wasn't my thing.

For USB, I used the Kenwood CA-U1EX USB extension and it works perfectly. I had to use some string to tie it down into the OEM housing. I did try some other adapter that uses the Kenwood headunit USB cables and a Honda interface to fit the OEM USB. That basically fried whatever USB flash unit I put in there.

The Canadian EX model allows the user to adjust the clock with the control stalk that resets mileage and dims the lighting.

If you have steering wheel controls and bluetooth phone and of course your rear view camera, my suggestion would be to use the iDatalink Maestro adapter unless the PAC model has fixed the issues that I've had : https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...rs-16-gk5.html

Canadian spec Fit's do not have TPMS and the iDatalink connection to the OBD port was useless so no tire pressure info, no track pack display. Maybe mileage/trip display but I don't use that anyways.

So is there a bass frequency rolloff "to prevent distortion of the (factory) speakers?
I find it strange that an auto manufacturer would install such a feature that's NOT adjustable.

Also, does anyone know how to remove the wires from the aftermarket harness?
I bought one male and two female harnesses (for extra pins and wiring if needed) on my Fit.
I took the harness to a nearby electronics store and they were not able to remove them and insisted I simply use a screwdriver etc.

Still cannot confirm. The onboard amp chip is 28 watts per channel. 28 watts is 28 watts. iI isn't going to push any major bass at all. Its designed to get you basic sound, not whumpa thumpa bass, or even a balanced sound with some bass punch.

thanks for the reply.
I have a 45x4 rms amp I'm currently doing the wiring on. Should be installed soon. I guess it depends on the speakers too (which will be upgraded later this spring/summer).
Hopefully I see better results than stock lol

Also, I was able to figure out the aftermarket harness issue. Surprisingly easy with a crochet needle/hook!

Is it possible to connect the amp turn on lead to A11/A24 of the harness?
That way, I don't have to run another turn on wire

I Used A24 and the cars frame ground. Don't use A11 as a ground.

Ah-ha, thank you!

I'll go ahead and use A24 as the turn-on for the amp.
Yeah, I'm fine with sourcing the ground. There's plenty of good places in the dash area to do that.

thanks again :bowdown:

In regards to the above statement, is there a "full range" signal sent to both the dash tweeters/door speakers?
The reason I ask, is the setup I have has a "filter" installed on both the tweeter and mid/woofer.

thanks in advance

Yes full range from the HU. The tweeters have a capacitor/resistor on it to block the low frequencies, the door speakers are full range, but no way they could produce any low frequencies worth a damn.

Perfect, thanks again!
:thumbups:

This thread has been super helpful. I’ve installed new speakers and while they sound much better, they still distort especially at higher volumes. Just installing an amp without the processor. Will post pictures when I make my copy of your harness!