OK, I just swapped out my speakers. Ive always used LC7i but didnt this time. I didnt thread you adjusting it as u should but PM me about that or if others wanna know, im willing to post on that in a different response thread. Ok so I digress back to my set-up. I was looking for speakers that are 2-ohm which boost the power by half (40x4 @ 4-ohm = 80x4 @ 2ohm). I got an awesome deal on two sets on Infinity Kappa components (399.99/pr) for 170.00pr. It was the brand i wanted but I was going for the mid-line so ok so I bought PAC best LOC, amp for front/rear components, and a bottom line Alpine Type E for some added lows with old school MTX amp. RF and MTX used to put the exact power on the amp. So I have the Kappa Components in at full range until the sub is installed this week. I went with Infinity because i like bright highs whether its listening to Jazz/R&B or my favorite, House/Breaks. Only proof i have new drivers are from the back door which ive posted in my audio thread which barely move. Again guys, hit me up about correctly adjusted the LC6/LC7/LC7i/LC8, i an do it. Have run the LC7 in set-ups since 08 Accord EX-L Navi.

 

making this a sticky for a professional job. =p

 

I'll send instructions on adjusting LC7i or any other LOC's. It's not easy but if done correctly, the sound is awesome.

 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

I can always take a picture of my settings. Granted its for my specific setup. I went with what sounds best to my ears. I don't have an RTA, but I can get access to one if need be. I didn't feel the need to go that far since I'm not entering competitions. The biggest challenge for me was setting the gains on the LCQ-1 to maximize the dynamic range of the OEM HU, and minimize the noise floor. The LC7I is amazing, but the LCQ-1 gives that much more control over your sound. A bit more green backs for it but well worth it IMO

As I've mentioned in other posts, I never would intentionally design an audio system with 2 ohm drivers. Rule of thumb I was always taught in pro audio is 4 ohms is the lowest average impedance before you sacrifice audio performance. 2 ohms is a near perfect ground and the amp has to push a lot of current to drive that speaker, which means more heat stress to the components. Its more of a fallback option should something fail at a gig and you can limp through till the component is repaired. Please do let us know how it sounds and if the amp is stable without losing fidelity or volume at high levels.

 

Mine is installed. Understand im running the Kappa's at above 80 hertz. Acura ELS IS 2-OHM, BOSE in Nissan, Infinity in hyundai, BEATS in dodge all are 2-ohm. My TL ELS system was awesome. Ive never heard what you shared. But im hearing u out. M neighbors since i was born have a car audio shop. Infinity Kappa's are 2-ohm but 4 ohm stable. But you cant show me you lc7 setting. there is a science to setting the loc i can share with. THE Audio control reps taught me well. I dont mind sharing. The process will take you 1-2hr. This is how detailed it is. Every set-up is different. As for others looking at LC6/7/8, these instructions will make for a good sticky as well for these awesome LOC brand.

BTW i love my speaker set-up, my amp which is 2-ohm safe gives awesome mid bass and bright highs only the guys at Harman can do with their Infinity/JBL line. Keep me posted.

 

Quick question. I'm mostly following but did you use all 12 pins on the molex connectors or just 9???

 

Only 9. The three extra ones were not used.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Finished up a copy of your harness today. I saw you used A24 for the remote turn on, but where did you pull 12v power for the audiocontrol from? Thanks!

 

Two 20A fused lines directly to the battery. One 20A for the dual subs, and the other 20A for the 4 channel amp and audiocontrol LCQ1. I used an in line 2A fuse off the 20A line to protect the audiocontrol unit.

I still get an audible "thud" because the remote out wire powers up the amps before the output relays in the LCQ1 enable. I am fixing this with a simple 555 timer delay relay circuit. When the remote out energizes, it will energize the timer circuit which will delay say ~3 seconds its NC/NO relay which will power the sense wires of the amps/subs. This will allow for the LCQ1 to power up first then the amps last. Shutdown is instant, no thump.
Ill have videos and links soon.

 

Does this have to do with the way you have the remote sensing set on the audiocontrol? The way it reads to me is if you leave the GTO setting enabled and do NOT run a remote wire to the lcq-1 it should turn on with signal and then feed remote power to your amps after its on.

 

No, I thought you were asking how the LCQ1 was powered.

GTO enabled means it waits for a speaker signal before turning on. In this case with the FIT, the speakers are ALWAYS on even if the stereo is not. This is because of the bluetooth phone feature.

You can enable GTO and the LCQ1 turns on with the car. OR.....

Alternatively you can leave GTO disabled and use A24 feed to trigger the remote in which will activate the LCQ1 and remote out feed to the amplifiers.


If you have GTO enabled and A24 connected to remote in, it will not change the behavior of the LCQ1. The ultimate function is the LCQ1 turns on/off with the ignition.

Hope this makes sense.

 

I was jumping around a bit. You answered my initial question about the power. I was just thinking about possible solutions for your "thump/pop" issue you mentioned. Don't you want the lcq powered/running before the amps? Isn't that what you are essentially trying to "fix" to get rid of the pop?

 

Yes, and now that I'm on a computer i can show what I'm going to use to fix it.



This device is also sold on oznium.com for way too much, but the same concept applies. This devices input would be to ground and the remote out terminal. it has a relay which energizes say 3 seconds AFTER the LCQ1 powers up (and its relay clicks) to activate the subs/4 channel amp without the thump. The shutdown is instant, no thump there.

12V Delay Timer Relay





The logic is sound, and will post a video and report back on the success or fail of it. its a simple 555 timer circuit. I could build one, but this one is already premade and neat looking on a PCB.

 

easy now. Only my wife is allowed to get me that excited. I'm very much like minded in troubleshooting and solutions so you are speaking my language. I have different components to my build so I'll see if I encounter the "pop". If I do I'm in for the fix. Good luck.

 

Then I am in good company with the tech troublshooting!

Keep you and everyone posted on the fix!

 

This little ingenious device solved my issue! The audio thump is coming from the LCQ1 on both the power up and power down cycle.

Input Section: connects to ground, and Vcc which I used A24 from the HU. That's the ACC power to activate the HU.

***I am NOT using the AudioControl LCQ1 Remote Trigger In/Out. This is important to note!!!

Output Section: Comm connects (jumpered) to Vcc of the input section, and CK (Normally Open) connects to the remote trigger wires of the amplifier/subs.

I set the time delay relay to about 4-5 seconds from the moment its powered by the HU Acc. This allows the HU to power up first, then the LCQ1, and finally the relay enables the amplifiers LAST on power up.


The problem is the LCQ1 powers up in two stages. The first stage is where the noise comes from and what activates the remote trigger when it senses a speaker signal in GMO mode. Then the RCA output relay within the LCQ1 closes afterward getting rid of the noise. The power down sequence is the opposite. Powering down causes the first stage to shut off LAST before the RCA output relay disengages. This is where the power off thump comes from.

*****A simple fix if AudioControl would ever read this thread is to have the remote trigger turn on AFTER the RCA input relay activates. That way the LCQ1 is fully active is accepting an input signal to the amplifiers.

Thinking out loud here: My guess is that it has something to do with the impedance mismatch and the internal capacitors which decouple the speaker input to the RCA output stage. That excess stored energy needs to go somewhere. I'd be willing to bet there are high impedance "bleed resistors" in the LCQ1 that bleed off the excess stored energy in the caps to match impedance for RCA output, but it doesn't happen immediately. Delaying the amplifier remote trigger allows these caps/resistors to do there job and be ready/prepared to accept an amplifier input, thus no "thump sound."

Okay time to have a beer or six!

Cheers guys!

 

Update:

The timer relay failed, not sure why, but I tracked it down to the 555 timer chip used on it. Looks to be a cheap batch of chips from China. The unit would power up but not trigger the relay to activate the remote sense wires of the amps. The chip's Vcc input is not filtered enough, only a small capacitor in line from the source and the chip. My guess is the spikes/sags that occur at startup while cranking the engine burned the chip out. Voltage spikes/sags are typical when cranking an engine. If the circuit was built better, it would handle these spikes/sags without fail.

Now I can repair this very easily with my surface mount device tools. I moonlight in PCB repair on the side.

I called Kenwood and AudioControl tech support to describe my problem because a delay relay is a workaround for a preexisting problem. I will say that Kenwood support is the crappiest I've ever dealt with. You cannot speak directly to a technician and the people only know as much as what the manuals say.

AudioControl, I spoke with Eric, who then called me back after speaking to a technician who worked on the LCQ1. Now that's service. (i'm not endorsed by AC, so this is no advertisement for them, but I am genuinely impressed on their customer support)

Eric relayed to me that the tech agreed that my delay relay setup was a good solution, but the tech suggested that it was my ground setup. The thump noise was because of a poor routed or bad ground. I stated earlier that the LCQ1 powered up in two stages. He stated that the remote out outputs 12 volts exactly when the relay inside the LCQ1 clicks. This is part of a muting circuit he said. Once the LCQ1 powers up, this relay activates the RCA outputs.

Then he asked me a question that solved my issue, WITHOUT THE DELAY RELAY I INSTALLED. He asked me what the ground jumper setup was in the LCQ1 and if it was mounted to the frame. My response was I left the jumpers alone, and no the LCQ1 is not bolted to the frame. The jumpers only isolate the signal circuitry from the chassis/PSU ground to prevent alternator noise and ground hum.

1. LCQ1 comes from the factory with its SIGNAL Ground isolated from its POWER SUPPLY Ground, to prevent ground loops. Since the unit is inside the plastic glovebox, it is also isolated and ground is "floating." You have the option to jumper the LCQ1 for either "isolated," Grounded" or 200 ohms resistance to between Signal/Power ground.

2. GTO is also enabled from the factory in the LCQ1. This is the signal remote sense circuit where the LCQ1 powers up when the HU outputs a speaker signal. If you have this on and the remote in connected simultaneously to A24 (ACC on) he said this could be another problem.

Solution. I connected A24 (ACC on) from the HU to the Remote In of the LCQ1. The 3 remote sense wires of the two subs and 4 channel amplifier connected to the Remote Out of the LCQ1.

AutoMode Jumper: ON
GMO Signal Sense Mode: OFF
Ground Jumper: Set to 200 ohms to ground***
Output Summing Jumpers: Set to Separate on all channels

***If I jumper-ed to ground, I heard little clicks and pops when various relays clicked on like for my heated seats, headlights, fog lights, and brake lights activated. No more power on/off amp thump noise, but I then had other unwanted noises.

200 ohms resistance to ground keeps the voltage potential of the LCQ1 close to ground, and eliminates any clicking/popping noises from other car accessories from coming through the speakers.

Passing this info along. Hope my lesson teaches others if they are looking to replicate my setup.

Cheers!!!

Bass

 

First of all, I just want you to know that I've been pouring over this thread (and then googling all the parts that I don't understand) for the past three days trying to understand everything and going from absolute zero knowledge of any car audio stuff to being confident that I can do this myself, with parts on the way.

The one part I'm stuck on is what I quoted above. So I understand that you have two 20A fused lines on the battery (why 20A?) but I have questions:

- Where is the line for the amp/processor going? Is it to the Audiocontrol unit, which then has a line out to the amp? If so, should I have another in-line fuse between them?

- In your video you show that you drilled a hole for your Audiocontrol ground, but what about for the amp? Is it safe to have them both on the same spot?

- Where did you manage to get the line out to the battery through? Or did you have to drill a hole?

Thanks again! This has all been very enlightening for me.

 

Thank you very much! Glad the thread has helped you!

1. 20A was chosen because of the ratings for the amps and controller.

A. 20A to power two subs which are each rated with a 10A fuse.
B. 20A to power the 4 channel amp which is itself fused at 15A. This same 20A line is tee'd off to power the AudioControl which has its own 2A in line fuse.

2. The hole I drilled for the ground has the ground for the 4 channel amp, both subs, and the LCQ1.

3. Did not need to drill a hole to the battery. There is a rubber grommet behind the blower housing where you can snake the wire through, then snake across the engine bay to the battery.

Cheers

 

After about a year or so of a similar setup I tried to address the faint popping I have. I duplicated your jumper setup and it's still happening. Funny thing is that if I restart the car after the first time it doesn't do it again. I don't know how long it takes to "reset" but it's typically only on the first start of the day or with hours in between which makes no sense.

Thoughts?