Crackling/Distortion at Volume above 28 w/ new subwoofer
#1
Crackling/Distortion at Volume above 28 w/ new subwoofer
So I recently installed an Infinity Basslink DC Here. I'm going simple/stock as possible so I'm just running high level inputs from the two rear speakers off the 100% stock stereo system. The sub was going into protect mode frequently so we exchanged it for another of the same and same problem. Although when it did work it sounded really good and clean and I could turn it up past 30 volume and highs lows and bass still sounded loud and clean. But it would always shortly go back into protect mode.
They install shop told me another newer car needed to run this subwoofer with a line out converter, so we decided to try running it with a line out converter as well and feeding the Basslink through that to its low level input/RCAs despite that it's designed to take in speaker level input directly.
It works fine now and stays on, but when I put the volume up to 28 and above the highs will get very crackled and distorted on the speakers and tweeters, even though the subwoofer will continue to put out clean loud bass. Interestingly if I put the fade to 100% front this will stop. But the rear speakers are driving the line out convertor so I feel it has to be something with that possibly interfering with the factory bass cutoff?
They install shop told me another newer car needed to run this subwoofer
They install shop told me another newer car needed to run this subwoofer with a line out converter, so we decided to try running it with a line out converter as well and feeding the Basslink through that to its low level input/RCAs despite that it's designed to take in speaker level input directly.
It works fine now and stays on, but when I put the volume up to 28 and above the highs will get very crackled and distorted on the speakers and tweeters, even though the subwoofer will continue to put out clean loud bass. Interestingly if I put the fade to 100% front this will stop. But the rear speakers are driving the line out convertor so I feel it has to be something with that possibly interfering with the factory bass cutoff?
They install shop told me another newer car needed to run this subwoofer
#2
From the instructions, since you do not have a dedicated sub output, or Line out converters, you can connect the 4 channels to this sub.
If you've been cranking the stock system to keep up with the sub, then you've probably caused damage to the speakers, hence the cracking noise. (stock head unit is maybe 28 watts RMS). The volume number doesn't tell how loud the original source was recorded to the media and of the recording quality.
I'm wondering how you managed to deal with the obvious mismatch in sub output with stock speakers? I had a 150w RMS (50 less than yours) sub that overwhelmed the stock system and sounded horrible.
PS I'm not a bass head and wanted good clean sound (SQ). I could make my Fit a boombox on wheels, but it's not my thing.
If you've been cranking the stock system to keep up with the sub, then you've probably caused damage to the speakers, hence the cracking noise. (stock head unit is maybe 28 watts RMS). The volume number doesn't tell how loud the original source was recorded to the media and of the recording quality.
I'm wondering how you managed to deal with the obvious mismatch in sub output with stock speakers? I had a 150w RMS (50 less than yours) sub that overwhelmed the stock system and sounded horrible.
PS I'm not a bass head and wanted good clean sound (SQ). I could make my Fit a boombox on wheels, but it's not my thing.
#3
Well I switched subwoofers and I'm running just the 2 rear speakers as high-level inputs to the sub. So far no problems and it sounds great and the volume of the factory sound and bass are balanced very well.
I think the basslink is just too sensitive for high-level inputs and it is really a flaw in their design. Too bad because every basslink I had before worked great with high-level inputs.
That said after much headache and a lot of time I can't recommend the Basslink anymore especially for our cars.
I think the basslink is just too sensitive for high-level inputs and it is really a flaw in their design. Too bad because every basslink I had before worked great with high-level inputs.
That said after much headache and a lot of time I can't recommend the Basslink anymore especially for our cars.
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