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may I suggest, posting this vital/useful info, on the K.I.S.S thread?
Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
Yessir the mini projectors will be here tomorrow! Roger that on the pics Ill have to get new ones. Still have to reinstall mine. Actually the cloth seats you can install the heated pads inside it. Trouble is you need hog pliers and rings to reassemble the seat properly. So it can be done but its a ton of work and the seat will never be perfect again. I did retrofit the OEM heated seat switches to the aftermarket harness. I never posted the wiring diagram to it but its fairly easy. See below.
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Heated Seat Wiring info:
Switch Left - 35650-TF0-003
Switch Right - 35600-TF0-003
Screws for Switch - 93903-22320 (you need 4 for both switches.
Switch Lid - 83407-T5R-A41ZA (the part that holds the switches.
Sub Wire - 32114-T5A-J00 (The harness with the plugs for the switches you will need cut to fit to AM harness)
I'll lookup the part#s for the switches themselves, switch garnish, and short harness pigtail that has the white and blue connectors to the OEM switches. Its not terribly expensive but one would have to hack it up to make it work right. The instructions below are meant to connect the OEM harness to an aftermarket heated seat kit with High/Low switch that has a bi-color LED indicator. Its actually two leds wired in anti-parallel and thus requires an spst relay to work with the OEM switches.
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There is an OEM blue and white connector that hookup to the OEM switches. Each have 6 wires.
White connector from left to right, this one has one pin open
OEM White Connector----Heated seat harness/SPST
Pink------- Red Wire on HH, and Pin 30 on SPST
Gray------ Positive for Button Illumination
Green----- Green Wire on Heated Harness
Black------ Ground for button Illumination
Black------ Black Wire on Heated Harness
White------ Pin 85 on SPST
***Pin 87 on SPDT to Blue Wire on HH
***Pin 86 on SPDT to Ground
Now the blue connector is slightly different but similar
Pink-------Red Wire on HH, and Pin 30 on SPST
Gray------Positive for Button Illumination
Red-------Green Wire on Heated Harness
Black------Ground for button Illumination
Black------Black Wire on Heated Harness
Blue------Pin 85 on SPST
***Pin 87 on SPDT to Blue Wire on HH
***Pin 86 on SPDT to Ground
may I suggest, posting this vital/useful info, on the K.I.S.S thread?
Sure, ill look for the thread. The heated seat reinstall will likely not happen till right before winter for me. Then again...if I can get some free time when not doing the responsible adult thing and getting a break from SHMBO it may be sooner. It's maybe the easiest to do with minimal wire routing/snaking.
Last edited by Bassguitarist1985; 07-05-2018 at 08:47 PM.
this whole time.... I thought I had a crack in my mirror
(I do have that same vertical line, and my car is an lx
Interesting, my 2017 EX did not have this line separating the wide angle. I prefer it though. The drivers side mirror is straight/flat, while the passenger side is convex, thus the "objects in the mirror are closer than they appear" applies.
So I got ambitious this morning and was able to remove the sealed lense of the DRL/Switchback to get access to the circuit board. I didnt use heat, but used my pocket knife to cut along the edge carefully. Heat would have been easier, but was too scared to try for fear of melting something. There are only a few SMD chips there, and with the right solder tools which I have, I can swap out the 8K Chips for some good 6K chips. Resealing the lenses should be no problem with the proper adhesive. Now the thought of adding more chips for brightness not sure how that can be accomplished yet, but more updates to follow!
The kit im modding here is located here, but their claim for 6K is a bunch of lies.I bought it a few years ago, maybe they did update the chips to get rid of the blueish tint. Either way, I got the means to fix it myself for very little cost to me. Just some time on the soldering station!
Oh yeah, big difference. So the LED emitters are 3528 package size, but instead I had some 5050 LED strips lying around that were cool white about 6500k. Figured it would be a hell of a lot easier to just install these rather than desolder the smaller package ones that are not as bright . Unfortunately I was not able to get a full strip on each side. Even still from my eyes judgement the brightness is not really that much better. And I wouldn't be able to put any high power LEDs into these housings because they are plastic and lack the proper heat sink for cooling. These are most certainly very bright signal lights and daytime running. Just need to get some time set aside to reinstall them. The hope is that I don't have to remove the bumper in order to do it.
A little soldering and we are back in business! ~6500k on the left and ~8500k on the right these units come stock with
dang, you resoldered the smd's? thats dedication. I will say, in the final pic, the 6500k looks damn nice!
Yeah, I got all the solder rework tools as I do other electronic hobby stuff. Now I need to figure out how to install them WITHOUT taking the bumper off. if I can just get my hand clear enough to get around the back of the garnish from the underside where you change the fog light bulb...I can snake the wires as necessary. Now all I need is time to do it!
Finished the projector install. At first I thought I got a bad light as one side had the high beam on when it was set to low beam. Turns out i accidently forced the round connector the wrong way. 30 minutes of messing around being an idiot, I fixed my issue and all works as expected.
You do need the glare shield, and while the assembly touches it, it does not harm it at all. Its a perfect fit actually. Now if one were to remove it, only one screw to get in your way. Trouble is...the screw is below the opening behind the back plastic, so means drilling a small pilot hole parallel to it for a screwdriver to remove it, or cut into the plastic to take it off, and its near impossible to get to without taking the entire housing apart. DRLs do work, no flicker.
Reinstalled my switchback signals and projector fog lights. Cant wait to see the difference!
Mini projector installed. It fits right through the glare shield. It touches it but does not push on it or cause interference. Picture 02 of mini projector!
Low beam with projector fog light. Slight mismatch of color temp but not bad. High beam only Low beam without fogs.
Last edited by Bassguitarist1985; 07-06-2018 at 05:14 PM.
Reinstalled my illuminated door sills and my footwell illumination which works off the dome light function. I tried putting under the front seats to illuminate the rear foot wells, but could not get them bright wnough or mount them effectively so I didnt bother.
Note to the wise, messing with 3M double sided tape is a royal pain in the dupa! :-P
Rear illuminated sills Front sills and footwell lighting
Is the footwell lighting the one Honda sells or something you pieced together on your own?
It looks awesome, much brighter than I thought those would be.
Is the footwell lighting the one Honda sells or something you pieced together on your own?
It looks awesome, much brighter than I thought those would be.
I have both. The OEM footwell lights work with the headlights/parking lamps. Those are dim but still visible. The brighter ones work off the dome light. Put it together using leftover RGB 5050 led strips, just wired the blue leds only. :-)
Got some condensation inside the headlight housings with the mini projectors. It would seem that the rubber gaskets it comes with does not seal properly. Looks like ill have to reinstall the oem gaskets. Trouble is the heat sinks wont be fully screwed in as there is not enough room for it. Will have to try and seal it better.
how to remove the condensation. Was thinking silica paks inside, hair dryer on the outside to evaporate it away and air compressor to displace it out of the housing.
Got some condensation inside the headlight housings with the mini projectors. It would seem that the rubber gaskets it comes with does not seal properly. Looks like ill have to reinstall the oem gaskets. Trouble is the heat sinks wont be fully screwed in as there is not enough room for it. Will have to try and seal it better.
how to remove the condensation. Was thinking silica paks inside, hair dryer on the outside to evaporate it away and air compressor to displace it out of the housing.
That's fascinating. We've had record-setting epic rains here in northern Virginia and so far no condensation in my housings.
To remove small amounts of condensation, remove the rubber seal, and either leave it out in the hot sun, and/or turn on the headlights.
this. before u panic and have a knee jerk reaction, do this first. its normal for a rare occurrence of condensation in the headlights. if it is happening more frequent, or condensation fails to evaporate, then it is a problem.
I have retrofitted headlights and i don't use the rubber seals in the back since the ignitor is too big. no issues with condensation yet.
Thank you guys. Little bit of hair dryer heat without the seals, no problem. Put the oem seals back in. Got tons of rain moving in this wednesday. Will report back the results.
Installed my Oil Catch Can today. Modeled off Cyclingfit's setup. Will report back how much collects. I got some highway toad trips planned very soon. Catch can is stock without any added stainless wool or baffle.
Whole setup Took an L bracket, drilled a hole. Used a stainless M6 x 1.00 by 12mm allen head bolt with washer. Bracket nestled under the ground wires where they are out of the way.
Been low key. Decided to upgrade the hatch area lights with some 5050 white light strip under the cargo cover. Looks way brighter! Used some leftover wire, a junk led light base, and wired it to a barrel/tip plug for easy removal of the cargo cover when needed.
Edit: This post has been edited a few times, I have gone through an extensive discovery process adapting the Monroe Air Shocks to the 2017. Unfortunately the MA811s are NLA, and after trying a few different parts from Monroe, I settled on the MA809s. I did try the MA777s inititally, but there were unforseen clearance issues that could not be overcome. Thankfully I returned for a full refund from Amazon.
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MA809 - This has the proper sized lower eye mount with no modifications, and the upper stem mod. The only kicker with this shock is that it has the air inlet fitting is pointed towards the tire. This will create a clearance issue with the tire. The air fitting sticks out about 25MM. One could possibly get a set of 25mm wheel hub spacers to make up for the lost clearance. It would seem that this option is the least amount of modification to work, but also the most expensive when you tally up parts because of the hub spacers. Still...it is feasible
- These are the ones I installed, the studs were about 10mm too long, and I had to cut them down to use the OEM acorn lugs. Not terrible, just stupendously annoying and time consuming to do.
So far no clearance issues with the tire. The full compressed length of the 809s is longer than the 811s, and with the extended rod on top with the bump stop added to near equal the travel of the OEM shock. I don't see how it can bottom out. The only major issue is the air fitting clearance being compensated for by hub spacers. Just make sure to put some Never Seize paste on the threads and brake drum face, and torque to 80ft/lbs, you should not have an issue.
I'll update this post for those interested. As always message me directly if you have more questions. I feel this mod is the most unique to my car I think...so far...:-)
Last edited by Bassguitarist1985; 03-04-2020 at 07:28 PM.
Reason: Updated Fitment information.
07-05-2018, 06:18 PM
