Oh so I can't find my old account, haven't been on this forum for years, so I registered a new one.

Recently spent lot time build our GK5 race car in China, didn't see much post here regarding to the Wilwood honda kit that fits the 2nd gen, thought I should share some experiences.

The Wilwood kit for 2nd gen will directly bolt on the 3rd gen GK5, brake lines are same, basically all 2nd gen brake kit should bolt on to 3rd gen without any issue.

Kits will fit:
Wilwood Disc Brakes - Search Wilwood Brake Kits

DP: If you are running 15 inch wheels, you can probably use the 140-12996 kit only. Although Wilwood claimed their 12.19" kit requires minimum 15" wheels, I'v tested tons of 15" wheels, nearly nothing can clear. So I would call 16" is minimum requirement for 12.19" kit.

Hope this could help

Some pictures of testing work, 1st picture is 140-12996 kit, 2nd and 3rd are 140-6163 kit, with 16" 5Zigen, last pictures was taken my first race with our GK5 early this year.

 

Hello,
thanks for the information, now I know I can transfer my brake to a GK5,...
not that I planned for

 

GK5 has pretty good factory brake, I don't feel much brake power different over the Wilwood with factory size rotor, I changed it because I'd like to use Wilwood H-Compound race pads. The 12.19 kit has noticeable different, but can't fit 15" wheels.

 

Oh, I guess Honda must do some improvement because the GE8 stock brake is not strong and fade easily...
I once had the pads literally on fire while driving fully loaded with my family and bags going down a mountain area outside Reno... and it fade...

Glad I change my front and rear brake system with a kit I assembled myself,
so now I never have any braking related problem again

 

Are you still running drums in the back or have you done a disc setup swap?

 

Yes I am still running drum in the rear, Dixcel Japan makes good racing shoes for the drum and worked just fine for me. I have driven another team's car with disk conversion in the rear during an 6hr enduro race, didn't feel much different(don't now what pad they use tho).

 

Cool thanks for the response. Please keep the updates and pictures coming. I really enjoy seeing Fits on the track.

 

Where in China are you?

 

thank you OP for helping me confirm that GE8 kits work on GK5's!

thanks for the wilwood PN's as well!

 

 

Firstly, you need to work on your punctuation....
can mean two different things...

"Bleed perfect but still have a low pedal Mechanically when the car is off" (could pause/break here) "and booster is not being engaged the brakes are solid like a rock"

is very different from...

"Bleed perfect but still have a low pedal Mechanically" (or could pause/break here) "when the car is off and booster is not being engaged the brakes are solid like a rock"

I'm guilty of run-on sentences too, but I try to break up the parts with commas... and there should probably be another comma after "bleed perfect," along with other things, but that's not as big an issue as the part that changes meanings.

There's a joke about it... "helping your uncle jack off the horse"... is it "helping your Uncle Jack, off the horse," or is it "helping your uncle, jack off the horse?"

~~~~~

Moving on...

The brake booster doesn't work when the engine is off, so it doesn't assist you in pushing the brake fluid. Hence, why its hard as a rock. The problem is, by itself, it doesn't mean much more than that.

Is the brake fluid topped up to the max line or at least over the min line?
Is there a leak?
Or worse, did you let fluid fall enough to introduce air into the master cylinder? I watched a friend bleed a master cylinder... not something I want to deal with.
Are you sure you bled all of it?

The DPHA brake has four bleeders and according to instructions, you only bleed the "top" TWO and not the "bottom" two. But honestly, I think bleeding the bottom might help on the off chance there's an air bubble in the bottom bleeder itself. That's what I did, when I changed the brake fluid on my Wilwoods, as I didn't do it when I first installed them.

I would open and close the bottom bleeders enough to let some fluid out. Then proceed with both of the top bleeders. For the top, have both open at the same time until fluid comes out of one of them, then close that one and finish bleeding with the other bleeder. After this is done once, it shouldn't need to be done for any brake fluid changes after... unless you absolutely want new fluid in each and every nook and cranny.

 

 

How did you do the install? Did you ever let the fluid drain (with air) past the master cylinder or ABS unit?

I'm no mechanic, I only know some DIY stuff... but from what little I do know, it does sound like air got into the system.

I helped my friend when he did his brakes and I've seen a few youtube videos (more like how to shortcut it), so I might be able to deal with the master cylinder if I'm forced to. I hoe I never have to, because it is just too much of a hassle taking it out to do a bench bleed, and then putting it back. The ABS unit, on the other hand, I wouldn't even know where to start... if I ever thought I had air in there, I'd just send my car to an actual mechanic.

Just FYI, when I did my install, I left the old caliper connected to the brake line while I made sure the new caliper was ready, steel lines and all. Then I swapped them as fast as I could to avoid letting air in through the bottom of the line.

I think one piece of advice online was to open up the cap on the reservoir to make sure that when you unhook the caliper, the fluid can freely flow out, and that prevents letting air in through the open line. With the cap closed, the fluid up top isn't gonna wanna flow much, but the fluid at the end of the line will still flow. It lets air get in while it flows out.

The new caliper also had to have all the bleeders open, so the fluid can just push the air, out as it comes in. Closed each bleeder as soon as fluid comes out of it. And of course, always making sure to top off the reservoir to prevent air from getting in through there.

 

So does this mean that the Budget GE big brake setup (a mix of ITR calipers, pads and mini 280mm rotors) would work for a budget setup? Also, is it worth upgrading from a 10.3mm setup to roughly an 11.1mm setup? I can't find any info on the stock caliper size.

 

Have 2015 Fit GK3. So, the 140-12996 kit bolt on directly on GK fits?

I'm late to the party but this is what wilwood told me :-
"Unfortunately the 140-12996 kit is not configured to work on the 2015 Honda Fit.The 140-13029 caliper upgrade is the only kit we offer for the 2015 Honda Fit at this time."

 

On the website the parts look the same, but 140-12996 comes with rotors where 140-13029 is calipers only. Both kits use part number 120-12949 for calipers, and the clearance diagram is the exact same. Unless the rotors don’t fit the GK5, I don’t see why they wouldn’t be interchangeable.

 

You're right! I just checked those numbers. The calipers are exactly the same! So why would wilwood tell me that 140-12996 isn't configured for the 3rd gen fit? Brakes lines are different? Correct me please, Brake pressure maybe?

 

"first you need to work on your punctuation" jeez.

how much of an ass do you have to be dude? Hes just askinf for help