FYI:
Symptoms: Clicking/Knocking at idle. Mild shaking/vibration with knocking. Intermittant. More prominent/frequent with AC/Defrost on. Noise from right side engine at pulleys.

Issue: Failing water pump.

Part Cost: Dealer: $120 Internet: $78
Labor: Dealer: $220 Self: $0

Outcome: TBD.


As an aside, it should be noted that last winter I heard consistent "trickling" behind the firewall. This forum suggested air bubbles in the coolant lines. I'm not so sure now.

rc

 

Is it leaking? If the belt is loose, lost the rubber in one or more places or is contaminated with oil, it could be slapping or intermittently slipping..... It could also be that the compressor clutch is slipping..... When you remove the belt you should be able to feel some looseness of the water pump shaft by grasping and pulling toward and away from where the belt make contact.

 

Follow-Up: The problem was in fact the water pump. It was easy enough to replace, but the fact that my 58k mile '07 Fit had a bad water pump still irks me.

THE INFORMATION BELOW IS MEANT AS AN INFORMATIVE GUIDE ONLY. NEITHER MYSELF NOR FITFREAK.NET ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE SUCCESS, FAILURE, OR DAMAGE RESULTANT FROM YOUR UNDERTAKINGS. IF YOU ARE FOR ANY REASON UNSURE OF YOUR ABILITY TO COMPLETE THESE TASKS DEFER THE WORK TO A QUALIFIED MECHANIC.

To Replace Water Pump:
Raise vehicle at least 18"
Remove plastic under-body guard from front of vehicle. Should be about 8 push-pins and 2 philips head screws.
Remove Right Front Wheel (for convenience only. Not necessary)
Remove Belt
Dismount the AC compressor. (DO NOT DISCONNECT A/C LINES!)
Remove pulley from Water pump (3 bolts).
Using new Water Pump as guide, remove the (5?) bolts holding it to the side of the engine block.
Have towels/catch pan ready if you didn't drain coolant.
Ensure that gasket is present and in good shape on new water pump.
Reverse steps.
DONT FORGET TO RE-FILL THE COOLANT IN YOUR VEHICLE!

FYI: Upon replacing the water pump the knocking/tapping went away. Also my gas milage returned to the normal 30-35 (up from the 20-25 I had been experiencing). Lastly the "trickling" noise from behind the firewall that I experienced when I first got the vehicle has returned. I'm not sure if this is a good or bad sign.

rc

Edit: I forgot to mention that in manually turning the pulley on both the old and new water pumps a uniformity could be felt in the replacement while there was a stuttering grabbing feeling to the pulley in the old one. Typical ball bearing failure.

 

Did you happen to have a scangauge on it to monitor the coolant temps? I too am getting the trickling noise you discribed from behind the firewall, I just guessed its air in the line as well. I have 103k on my '07, I watch my coolant temps, and seem fine. Hoping I can make it to 150k before i replace the pump.

 

I do not have a scangauge but intend to purchase one soon. I can tell you that the overheat idiot light came on. The trickling happened when I purchased the car from its original owner a year ago last October. I had it checked out by the local Honda Stealership and they confirmed that it was merely air in the lines. They charged me three toes and my right pointer finger for a coolant flush and the trickling went away. I'm not sure whether the trickling is a pre-cursor to inevitable pump failure or if the pump going bad was just a fluke.

rc

P.S. I have a bad habit of not checking these boards all that often so please contact me by other means (check out my profile) if you have any pertinent questions.

 

I don't think your trickling has anything to do with a bad water pump. Loosen the radiator cap, start the engine, wait until the thermostat opens, turn the heat on so the heater core has circulation and wait for the coolant level to drop as air bleeds out. Then fill with Honda type2 coolant. You may have to hold the engine at 2500rpms for the coolant to become hot enough for the thermostat to open.

 

I know the OP already replaced the water pump, but wouldn't the water pump be an item that is covered under the 5/60k powertrain warranty? The OP's mileage was only 58k.