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Rear brake shoe inspection and adjustment, star wheel and parking brake
I bet this is a missed maintenance procedure in a lot of cases. It might be a comfortable difficulty for someone who was already familiar with changing a tire, oil and spark plugs. I wouldn't suggest a complete DIY replacement unless you were also ready to bleed the brakes and were prepared for something to go wrong. There are several threads from this forum I'll include links to below.
In addition to a way to get your ride off the ground, anyone would need:
1) Breaker bar/lug wrench, torque wrench and socket set
2) Wheel chocks, since the parking brake can't be used while removing the drum
Don't forget most shops recommend re-checking lug nut torque after 50-100 miles.
There's a removable rubber boot on the backside of the drum that allows you to view the star wheel. However, performing the adjustment solely through that location is a joke. The brake internals can shift around significantly, there's no good way to check drag on the drum, the star wheel spring and clip mechanism doesn't operate similarly clockwise and counterclockwise (a noticeable "ping" in one direction) and in my case, all the components were clogged with a thick layer of brake dust.
After the adjustment, I pumped the brake pedal in park, did several hard reverse stops, set the parking brake and did some normal driving before I was happy with the result. I can imagine the self-adjusting feature not working correctly under a lot of circumstances. My brakes were noticeably different before and after the adjustment; my car has about 100,000 miles on it and I wouldn't be surprised if they hadn't been touched since the factory put them on. A few tips from my experience that may apply:
A) The drums and shoes fit together differently (due to wear) after rotating the orientation from how they were removed. While checking for drag, be sure to measure the same way every time.
B) The driver's side and passenger's side required a different number of turns on the star wheel.