AT transmisison change interval, parts?
 

Okay, so I'm at 10,000 miles now... since I also drive a VW, I get paranoid about maintenance (if you don't do maintenance "on time" or earlier, then you will end up with a very expensive bill).

Went through my first oil change at 6,000 miles at 20% "oil life", and UOA was fine. Switched to Mo1 5w20, will get another UOA at 12k.

On to the questions!

• When is the Automatic transmission due for it's first service? (please, no "lifetime fill" BS)
• What are the parts required (cap, cap lock, gasket, standoffs, screen, special fluids is what you need in an 01m in a VW)?
• What type of fluid should I get (just Honda specific, or is there something better that's proven in this transmission)?
• How do you check the level (you don't even want to know how to do this on a 01m)?

Just asking before I go doing anything stupid... Oh, and I drive like every stoplight is a 1/4 mile strip... you just about have to... it's such a slow car! but the handling makes up for it.

How come you know so much about turbo sizing but you don't even know how to check the ATF level in a FIT? :confused: Kind of backwards most people know the basic stuff before moving onto advanced turbo selection. :rolleyes:

Neither that nor this is adding anything useful to the thread. Try to be more helpful...

My family member suggested just driving to one of those places that do it for you by tapping into the lines (flush?)

For my old a/t Jetta, the forums discovered around 30-35k helped avoid issues (manual stated a much longer period). I'll probably do something around 60-70k with the Fit's a/t fluid (like, 1.5-2 years more...)

It's a legitmate question for the OP. :p But thank you O'so much for your concern about what I post ;) but you didn't offer him any advice germaine to the FIT auto transmission in your post either.:rolleyes:

W! T! F! Claymore?

Well for one, I'm an engineer, I've owned two fits, the first one was quite possibly the first fit accident in the USA. I got my second fit in November, and I haven't received my service manual yet.

As for turbo sizing, does this really have anything to do with this thread? No. Tell you the truth, I don't even know where to tap into the oil supply for this engine. Sounds like a bunch of homebrew turbo people on that part of the forum don't know much more than I do. Why don't you go harass them?

Maybe I was also trying to encourage discussion on this subject since one transmission is different than another. I don't make assumptions on a hydraulic system, ever. some you measure running, some you don't, some have a dipstick tube that needs to be at a precise temperature to be able to check.

Did you know there is a VW transmission that you can't change the screen without removing the transmission and ripping it apart? it's called an 09A. Maybe this transmission has a similar setup.

Sometimes there is a different fluid with the same characteristics of the OEM fluid that is 1/10th the cost.

I'm not a moron, I just don't make assumptions, and I ask questions, lots of them, because there are other people on this board with something to add to the conversation.

Congrats on pissing me off...

troll...

actually he gave more advice than you did claymore...

Why don't to you go read a Dale Carnegie book and change your life?

I'm not a big fan of flushing the transmission. Changing the fluid however, I am a big fan of

Yup, that sounds like your car was older than 2003...

I'm wondering what the OUA would show at that point, I'd probably stick with 40,000 miles and get the interval there (paranoia).

It's still a legitimate question. You did such a nice job on the turbo stuff and that was a complement so it's a conundrum as to why you didn't know the simple stuff nothing to get all bent about. It's unusual that's all nothing implied I simply wondered how you gained all that knowledge about turbo charging which is an esoteric subject to many members but professed a lack of knowledge to something as simple as checking the fluid level that is unusual that's all nothing derogatory intended.

I think I've answered the question already... I don't assume I know how to do things. I happen to know a lot about flow theory when it comes to turbines and heat exchangers. The rest is just some simple math which can be applied to any ICE of any size. I can do the math for a turbo on a smart car... does it mean I know everything about a smart? The formula didn't come from anything but someone's brain... probably smarter than I am. I was hoping to make it a little less of an esoteric subject by explaining why "gimme a huge freaking turbo that I've gotta pull the passengers seat out" is a bad idea.

A hydraulic system is something each engineer would do uniquely. Something along the lines of Monet (not Monet) versus a Van Gogh. Different approaches to make the same solution. Since I'm not familiar with Honda's transmissions (Actually they are probably made by AISN) I didn't assume I knew how to check the fluid level properly.

That being said, I'll counter the question with something. How would you go about checking the AT level on a 1999 VW Jetta? Unless you had been around a VW forum and asked the question, or owned the service manual, it would be impossible for you to do a pan drop without a VAG-COM or a IR Temperature scanner. You could get into trouble if you asked questions after the pan is down. Also, VW specific ATF fluid is required, and the interval should be no longer than 40,000 miles (A.K.A the lifetime of the crappy transmission). Assuming you know how to do things is what puts more VW's in the salvage lot. I know Honda makes a better system, but it's probably better to ask now, then find out later that I screwed something up.

Sure you could make the assumption the amount of fluid you removed should be the amount you put back in, but how can you make sure the previous person didn't screw something up?

Sorry if I took it the wrong way, but it was as if you were trying to start something.

No just interested you showed a high level of learning about a complex subject that has some members scratching their heads. And most car enthusiasts start at the bottom of the learning curve by starting with the small stuff and work their way up to the complex subjects not the other way around.

And I have a manual Transmission so I couldn't tell you how to check the level in your automatic because I have never read that part in my owners manual or the repair manual either

I've been around the block a couple of times with engines... transmissions, I try not to do more than replace it when it breaks... with engines, I'm not afraid of replacing a cracked piston or doing a full rebuild.

I'm not a beginner on cars in general, and I wouldn't dare make a different turbo kit on a car I know next to nothing about, however selecting a turbo size based on the displacement of the engine is an elementary calculation.

I work in warranty maintenance so i can give my/a generic answer.

I would do the first service at 30k, especially the way you drive. It might say 60k in the book, but that's my suggestion.

You can use a honda spec fluid or another one(Mobil makes a fluid that meets many manuf. specs)...my experience with Honda's has been that most of them dont require a Manufacturer only fluid.

Normally i would recommend taking it to a lube shop and just let them do the flush...but you seem opposed to that. What is the reasoning behind your mindset? Have you had a bad experience or is there another reason?

I have a MT so i just assume there is a dipstick for the tranny on AT, but i have no experiences with AT.

Just my 2 bits,
SSFit

Mostly the reason behind the flush being a bad idea (power flush, not one that uses the flow of the transmisison to change) is it usually will drum up some of the particulates in the pan and suspend them in the fluid, wearing parts that are touched with the fluid.

I've mainly heard of horror stories with people that have had problems after flushing. It could have just been a coincidence.

Yeah, my Jetta is a 1999. Everything about that vehicle is unreliable, lol. The tranny was replaced at 95k miles, reverse quit. I'm an engineer too, though in CPU design, started out mechanical. I say, figure out the Fit in any order you want. If you do flush the a/t, post some results too.

if you drive hard change the A/T fluid every 15-20k. if you drive normally then probably every 25-30k. i have over 50k on mine since i bought it in June06. changed it at 30 then 48k. i never flushed it completely. don't believe in the power flush have heard mixed things about it. as long as the fluid is cherry red you are good to go. there is also a tranny filter located under the battery tray. changed that at 48k too. just drained and refilled. took about 3 quarts. if you do it regularly then the other fluid will be recycled out and replaced. use honda fluid. there is a dipstick towards the front by the radiator under the intake box. check it when the car is warmed up completely. honda tech manual says to turn off the car and check it within 60 seconds. i have done that and when it is running. the fill bolt is underneath the intake towards the back of the tranny by the firewall. or you can fill it through the dipstick hole.

I dont know much about the power flush, but the one i do at my shop uses the flow of the tranny to do the work...havent seen any negative results yet. +1 to leonine's post

Wow just 25-30k? That's like 18 months for me... I'm already past that, how much does a normal "a/t fluid flow swap" cost anyways down at the transmission shop?

I'll change it in another 5-10,000 miles... Shouldn't be too hard.

User's manual calls for very long. ATF is something not changed as frequent. Honda stock Z1 ATF for stock transmission only. Honda has certain friction modifiers in its ATF.

Although i've used Amsoil (the only one advertised as z1-compatible in my auto) i dont recommend it on a stock transmission or until you're boosted.

Sounds like you're certain I'm boosting this car... lol... not like I'm studying that at the same time...