Have you used a volt meter on the sensor? The ECU has no way of knowing if the sensor is bad,,, or if the actual mixture is just out of spec.. Just a last thought on it before you spend the $$$$$

 

I was planning to test the sensor tomorrow before buying anything. I plan on disconnecting it to see the difference. I have a really good multi meter, a side effect of having a degree in electronic :-), but despite that, I'm not verse into testing car sensor, what should I test for.

Also today the CEL was off, i didn't reset the code, so that's definitely interesting, So more test will be required.

EDIT: Oh man, i just realize how a bitch it is to get your hand there. Luckily for me I had the heat the shield remove because is was coming lose and about to come off by itself and was vibrating, so it's easier for me to get there. Still, I cannot get a good grip on it to disconnect the connector. It might be easier from under the car, but I can't do that on my drive ways really ( it,s on a angle) and it's snowy and wet. I,m going to give up on it for now. I might go to my brothers house and used his huge garage and lift my cars straight.
Although removing the whole battery could make some space on the right side and help reaching it. IF I do it I might take so picture because there's not a lot of help and good DIY on the web for this.

 

Today it is realy nice outside, so I took some picture, since the heat shield have been removed, we can clearly see where is the sensor and the plug.


This is me dirty little engine. The red arrow is where my phone was when I took the other picture, to give you the perceptive.



The red arrow is the sensor and the blue is the plug. You can see there's also a retainer clip that hold the wire. You can slide the wire out of there easily ( I'm not a photo editing expert, so I used paint for this, that why it suck sorry).




This is a side view, from the passenger side of the engine. The blue arrow point to where is a plastic clip you have to press to get the plug free from it's metal clip. the yellow is the wire retainer.


I did try today to unplug it, But I couldn't do it. It's really hard to get a good grip on it. Like I said previously, removing the battery could make some space so you could have your right arm inside the engine bay and unto the plug and your left one over the engine. Having both hand would help. I feel lazy today, so I don't want to try it right now. Working from below the engine is probably a better idea.

I hope this help for those you had difficulties pin pointing where it is.

 

It's easier to replace when the intake manifold is off, so if you have the ability to adjust your valves at the same time, you can kill two birds. You will need a EGR plate gasket to do that. I get them from Majestic. Get a cheap offset 02 sensor socket at Home Depot like the one shown. You just need to squeeze the tab on the connector just right and it will unsnap. The OEM sensors are made by NTK, but I like Denso products so I get upstream and downstream 02 sensors from sparkplugs.com. I have also found that the latest Denso TT plugs have made a subtle but noticeable improvement, in the Fit and especially in my Neanderthal '99 Dakota 5.2. Honda packs a lot under that tiny hood, it would help to have the hands of a 10 year-old to get at stuff. My 02 sensors failed at about 67K miles so every 65K miles I adjust valves, replace plugs and 02 sensors and while I'm in there replace the evaporative canister filter and PCV valve. My engine has 170K miles on it and runs better than new.

 

By the way, if you D/C the battery for 30 minutes it will clear the code. Then when you are re-assembled start the engine and let it idle through 4 cooling fan cycles. That is a sufficient idle learn procedure.

 

I should get that small tool, didn't know that existed.

Valve adjustment and removing exhaust manifold is a little over my paid grade as far as mechanical skill, and willingness go. Beside, I'm not equip for that really or have a good place ( my driveway is mostly a incline, I can place the car straight enough to change my wheels, but not to lift completely of the ground) . Borrowing to garage of my brother will be good for the doing a sensor. I don't trusted myself for more than that. I love small manual work on my car, and I can be good at it, but I'm a IT guy. I HATE when people who think they know what they are doing and "knows computers and networks" mess around with stuff they should not, and you have to pick up the pieces afterwards. So, I don't want to piss off my mechanic because I've mess something up with my car lol. But thank for they advice, but I know my limit. Not falling for that dunning-kruger effect. I'll let the valves for pro.

As for the code I have a OBDII reader ( a 40$ amazon one that does the job pretty )that part is fine. Although, like I said removing the battery would help so the code would probably reset anyway.

 

Right on, man, I don't mess with my Registry!

 

I LITERALLY CREATED MY ACCT. TO RESPOND TO THE SMARTASS AND HIS VERY SPECIAL QUOTE.."" did you just over hear it somewhere...and then you repeated it with no basis for why?"" YOU ASKED WHAT WOULD VALVE CLEARENCES HAVE TO DO WITH THESE CODES?? AND THEN YOUR SMART ASS COMMENT ON TOP OF THAT REALLY??? I THINK BEFORE I DECIDED TO BE A SMART ASS TO SOMEONE WHOS TRYING TO GIVE YOU GOOD ADVICE OR AT LEAST HELP YOU WITH YOUR PROBLEM ID MAKE SURE I KNEW WHAT I WAS SAYING BEFORE I SAID IT ,OTHERWISE YOUR GONNA LOOK LIKE A DICK....DICK. SO SMART GUY... WHAT WOULD VALVE CLEARANCES HAVE TO DO WITH THOSE CODES WHICH ARE BASICALLY OFF THE WALL BAD A/F SENSOR READINGS . WELL LETS THINK FOR A SECOND WHAT PRODUCES AIR PASSING THROUGH THE CAT???????????????????HHMMM? PROBABLY THE VALVE TRAIN IN CONJUNCTION WITH PRESSURIZED AIR FROM THE CYLINDERS,IF YOUR VALVE CLEARANCES ARE SHIT ON YOUR ENGINE AND YOUR ROCKER ARM SOUND LIKE CRAP THEN YOUR VALVES WON'T OPEN AND CLOSE PROPERLY CAUSING IRREGULAR AIR FLOW INTO THE ENGINE AND OUT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD,IF THE ENGINE ISN'T INHALING AND EXHALING PROPERLY THEN THE A/F SENSOR AND 02 SENSORS ARE GOING TO READ THIS BAD AIR FLOW CAUSING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON ...AND BECAUSE THE A/F SENSOR OR 02 SENSOR IS READING A BAD READING YOU ASSUME ITS THE SENSOR ITSELF......AND IT MAY BE THE CASE 100% ,THAT'S WHY YOU HAVE TO TEST THE HARNESS AT THE SENSORS, TEST THE SENSORS, TEST THE HARNESS BETWEEN SENSORS AND PCM AND MAKE SURE THE ENGINES VALVES ARE OPENING AND CLOSING LIKE THEY SHOULD BE SO YOU DON'T GET A FALSE CODE .....CONGRATULATIONS YOUR EDUCATED! .....NEXT TIME DON'T BE A DICK!