I wouldn't normally be posting valve lash findings but these results rather surprised me.

I picked up this car certified used, 78k miles on it. From the looks of it the intake and valve cover had never been removed so I assume its never been tampered with.

From what I gather the specs are
Intake:0.15-0.19 mm (0.006-0.007 in.)Exhaust:0.26-0.30 mm (0.010-0.012 in.)

Here was the lash before adjustment.

#1 Intake .009 .009 Exhaust .010 .007

#3 Intake .011 .010 Exhaust .006 .007

#4 Intake .009 .009 Exhaust .006 .009

#2 Intake .011 .011 Exhaust .007 .006

As you can see the intake lash tended to be on the loose side and the exhaust lash erred toward the tight side. Loose valves don't bother me.. but the tight ones concerned me some. Either someone WAS in here before and did the adjustment the complete opposite (exhaust front intake rear as in the older Honda engines) or there was quite a bit of seat wear on the exhaust side.

I set the lash to .006" intake and .011" exhaust on all the valves. Toward the tight end of the specs on intake and middle of the road on the exhaust valves.

On a brighter note.. the engine looks brand spankin new inside.. can you believe this is almost an 80k mile engine? wow

 

Don't worry those clearances are very similar to what other members and myself have observed on our first valve adjustments. Loose intake valves and tight exhaust valves.

Yeah, I too was amazed at how spanking new everything looked underneath the valve cover.

 

Oh and it's "erred" not "aired," just FYI.

 

Hmm, mine "before" clearances were fairly similar to your's. The only thing though is that I did mine at 45k.

 

Mine need to be adjusted too.. I have 51000 miles and it runs fine but there have been a few guys that have claimed that the valve adjustment made a difference in performance that could be felt...If Bernardi mails the gaskets and other parts Monday I'll have every thing I've been waiting to do taken care of by next weekend including fender liners, splash shield, Beatrush panel, Weapon R intake, colder spark plugs, exhaust gaskets.. Black HID head lights and replica Mugen front bumper with fresh paint, wrapped and DEI coated down pipe and O2 sensor fix.. I might even get the water/methanol kit installed and working since the weather is so beautiful and I am not fond of driving the old 97 GMC pickup because of front end and brake problems.

 

Interesting.. must be a trait then. Unfortunately it did nothing for the knock I was attempting to get rid of. This thing sounds horrible. I am suppose to call the service manager at the dealer on Monday. *sigh* I have an awful feeling they are going to try to persuade me there is no problem.

2008 Honda Fit Engine noise - YouTube

I say its a wrist pin. I have heard this before in my 2000 2.4 accord. Replaced all the bottom end bearings.. didn't change a thing.

Its making me sick.

 

Just did my valves also, car has 49K on it, just about the same specs as yours, loose intakes and tight exhausts. My car has a slight knock to it, not too worried about it, but your video sounds not so good, mine is nowhere near that loud. Good luck, maybe the dealer will attempt a fix.

 

Yea it sounds bad and getting worse. I just bought it 2 weeks ago. Cert used. I suspect fresh oil mask it for a while. Suppose to call the service manager on Monday. I just hope they don't try to deny there's a problem.

 

I have adjusted valves on many different cars and motorcycles and the intake valves are always tighter due to valve and valve seat wear.... It's when I don't hear clicking that I become worried...

 

These were actually quite the opposite. Exhaust were very tight.. intakes were loose. A lot of the exhausts were .006".

 

I meant to say the "exhaust" were always tighter... I just pulled all of the stuff including the cam, rocker arm cover and was able to wiggle both some of the exhaust and some of the intake rockers... If my back will let me do any more, I'm going to get after doing the adjustment now.. Otherwise it'll have to wait until tomorrow.

 

Our Fit's first valve adjustment (60K miles) saw initial values similar to the others: Loose intakes, tight exhausts.

We didn't need any gaskets, just a dab of sensor-safe RTV at the "corners" of the valve cover where it makes a 90 degree direction change to go over the camshaft.

Regards spdweb.net 's knocking, I'd try some 5W-30 Dino oil first...

But good luck at the dealer.

 

Well... I took the car back to the dealer this morning.. after 7 hours and countless techs scratching their heads.. they are going to replace the engine. The cause they came up with.. loose #2 wrist pin.

They gave me a brand new 2012 Accord to drive for a week.

The service manager said they found a 'used' engine with under 10k miles. Which surprised me.. since this is a Honda Cert car.. I assumed any replacement would be Honda re-manufactured..

Personally though I would take a used factory 10k mile engine over a rebuilt mystery mileage one.

Hopefully it turns out well!

 

I've owned mostly junk when it come to cars, well at least when I compare it to this o8 fit sport of mine, I dont know if it just the past that keeps tapping on the shoulder, saying its going to blow up soon thinking from all the Fords I've owned.haha.

Here's why I say this, when I pull up to get my coffee in da morning, I drive up next to the side of the coffee house building, which is all brick, I can hear the what I think is the valve's ticking. Mine has just turn 70,000. I cant feel any change in performance of engine, but I swear I hear that ticking, sure my meds could be off, but should I take it in or go see the doctor.

I'm also thinking I should just go buy the Factory MANual, for it. I want to do the brakes and rotors myself. btw the brakes have never been done yet.

 

I spent a WHOLE DAY at 67K miles adjusting my valves until they were as PERFECT as I could get them. Up until then the car sounded like a sewing machine once it was warm, especially after driving in cold weather. I beat the heck out of it until then. After my OCD valve adjustment, the car sounded like a sewing machine once it was warm. At idle today, with either Mobil1 or Royal Purple in it, any viscosity, it has a "knock". I still beat the heck out of it at 104K miles. It runs perfectly and gets 36-40 MPG depending on how I drive it. I have decided that the noise is a characteristic of the engine that means, in practical terms, absolutely nothing. Letting go if it and just driving the car has been very liberating. What matters with the L15A is how it runs and performs, NOT how it sounds under the hood. I know it really pisses people off and makes them worry like hell, but really, it just doesn't matter. A good valve adjustment and Denso Iridium plugs, and then listen to the exhaust pipe. My engine sounds like a Stradivarius out the exhaust pipe, a really smooth, perfect purr. That's all that matters. Seriously.

 

Yep injector clatter and EGR opening and closing sound bad but they make the car run so goood.