WOW!! Can't wait to do this! I had an 06 Si before my GE8 and I did the CMC swap using the Hybrid Racing kit with the EM1 CMC and stainless braided line and it absolutely transformed the shifts on it!

So to recap, for easiest swap I should use the 01-05 CMC listed on this thread so that I don't have to go through the pain of bending the line as much and no need to swap out the pedal shaft?

Anyone know of a braided clutch line supplier for GE8's? I'm thinking of just getting the Hybrid kit as it also includes the braided line and no need to bend a line linkage with that kit. When I had the Si and I bought this kit, the 90 degree elbow on the clutch line worked like a charm and I didn't have any issues re-aligning the stock clutch line. The angle of the clutch line's output is a little different than the CMC's posted here though.

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/store/8...r-upgrade.html

EDIT: Did a little searching as the previously posted e-bay listing is no longer available. Is this the one I want? http://autoplicity.com/products/3293...gn=GSNOFITMENT

 

OP how long did this take you? And thank you so much for putting this up! CDV is driving me nuts, was going to wait till the warranty was don't but I just can't

 

thread necromancer... whatever.

this is a great writeup. does anyone know if the braided line included in the hybrid-racing kit is an appropriate length to swap in to the ge8?

 

Has anyone done this swap on a RHD GE yet?

with the US LHD's, the CMC is accessible through removing the battery/airbox that gets in the way.

with the RHD its behind the both the Brake fluid reservoir and clutch fluid reservoir, almost impossible to get at it without removing the whole front wipers assembly. Also anyone that is older than 12 will have a hard time cramming their hands back in that deep.

any tips ?

 

I finally got around to install one of Item9's clutch master cylinder with the delay valve removed. Installation was straight forward plug and play with nothing to modify or hard line to bend. Bleeding the clutch line was easy from the slave cylinder with a pneumatic brake bleeder. Clutch pedal feel is so much better without the sponginess and more direct. You will feel a little bit of vibration from the clutch pedal without the clutch delay valve.

 

For anyone that's thinking about doing the CMC Delay delete on a JDM GE6/8, the Straight swap with the OEM Civic CMC DOES NOT WORK. On the JDM cars, the clutch master cylinder studs (width of the 2 mounting studs) are slightly narrower and the depth of the CMC itself is different to the civic's... therefore this thread only applies to the USDM 2nd gens, if anyone here with a JDM GE8 has found a straight swap from another honda please let me know.

 

I purchased one of ITEM9's CMCs back in January, had not gotten around to installing it, but when I went to, the above scenario is what I found. So I went to Honda and ordered a new CMC and looking (hoping) to send that and the one I purchased back to ITEM9 and have him do his gifts on the new JDM piece and send it back my way.

 

Dumb question, does the GD3 2008 fit have one of these delay valves as well?

 

GDs have a delay valve, but supposedly its in the hose/line

GD also has DIFFERENT clutch master size and bolt pattern then GE, so older honda ones will not work it seems

 

Dang I can feel a weirdness to mine I'd love to be able to delete it. Bummer

 

What do you think about this? The part number ends in G03 instead of G05, which makes sense because it's a Nissin part and not Honda, but it's for 01-05 Civic so it should work with minimal modding/bending right? It's the cheapest I can find.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151125915533?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Message me if you want my new in bag 01-05 civic clutch master. I have had it sitting around too long, and will beat that price

 

hi, so does anyone know the best option for jdm 08 ge8? please its rhd

 

Ok so I've done the conversion with the Duralast equivalent of the 01-05 Civic CMC I got from 13fit. Love it for the most part, but one little thing is still kind of annoying. It seems my dead zone is too long. The pedal goes in a good inch or so first where it feels loose and easy, then suddenly hits some resistance and works fine from there on. I've gotten down and looked while I push the pedal in with my hand and the pin of the CMC is indeed being pushed in this whole time, so it's almost as if the cylinder itself has this dead zone. I didn't remove the retaining ring and swap the pin from the original CMC because both looked to be the identical length. I did swap the pedal clip though because, as it has been noted, the one for the Fit pedal is narrower. Also the adjustment bolt for the pedal sensor is down as far as it will go, or as tight as it will go, call it what you like. We fully bled the clutch after the install and seemingly got out all the air.

Anyone else have this problem? Do you think I still have air trapped in the line? Was thinking of trying something like this guy did...

 

Glad it works for ya man.
I need you to go out to your car with a 10mm open wrench, loosen the clutch rod nut, and rotate the clutch rod clockwise 2 turns, and see if that has a positive impact.

It is very possible the civic master has a shorter bore inside.

This is the same thing that needs to be done for the older civic crowd that swap over to teh honda s2000 clutch master. We had to get a spacer, and adjust the rod so the top fo the pedal was doing the work rather than halfway or near the end

 

As for possible air in the lines (which I would check first), grab a helper, and what you want to do is a reverse bleed. This is mainly for people who do not bench bleed items first before installing.

First, top off the reservoir. you can leave the cap off at this time. put down some rags to catch overflow or bubbles splashing all around.

pump the clutch several times, then fully release (foot off pedal).

Crack the bleeder on the slave open, and then, while having a buddy ready to close the bleeder, slowly push the pedal. DO NOT HIT THE FLOOR!!

You want to get the bleeder tight before you finish the clutch stroke. This is using the fluid to push and force air to the slave.

You will want to do this 3-4 times, even if the first time bubbles up, yet 2nd time looks perfect.

This will also add gravity as a helper. When you have done this, now you can bleed the clutch normally (pump, hold, crack, tighten, release)

At no time should you EVER touch the floor or let the pedal go all the way down when a bleeder is open!


Make sure the cap of the reservoir is on and tight while bleeding normally.

This trick served me well doing notorious hyundai tiburon pull clutches



EDIT that video you posted, it had the "recommended" videos at end, one of them is the perfection clutch page. Its an old guy showing a ton of awesome tricks. He actually was the one who helped me tackle my first pull clutch experience, as they require a couple mroe steps than a traditional clutch change

 

Got it sorted, thanks. Wasn't able to get my fingers in the tight space and spin the clutch rod, so I just unhooked it from the pedal and rotated the clip two turns counterclockwise. Reattached and BOOM, feels great. I know what the problem was. I didn't put the nut back on that locks the clip in because I don't see a need for it. So I tightened the clip all the way down, but since the nut wasn't there it was further down than it would be with the nut there. So twisting it a couple turns outward compensated for that space the nut would be taking up.

 

I strongly suggest throwing that nut on there. every time you push the pedal, that rod has a chance of changing position. That is the only purpose behind having that nut there.

see what two turns does? I remember having to turn it 5-6 times to make a S2K master work good on the old race civic lol

EDIT those threads are not made for being taken up completely. It is just room for adjustment, as that same clutch rod is probably made for a million other clutch masters.

Would not be surprised if the supplier for the clutch rod is the same for pretty much all honda clutch masters lol

 

Thanks so much for this write up. I just did this mod yesterday. I can't say that I've noticed much/any improvement in the throttle float, but the previous behavior was driving me nuts. I've been driving manuals for 20 years, but this one was constantly negating all my experience. Now the pedal height actually has some relationship to clutch engagement. Who would want that?... Oh yeah, everybody who has driven a manual before.

One slight negative with the mod (depending on your preference). I can now feel the engine vibration in the pedal.

 

I noticed the same thing. Anyone else have this new vibration through the pedal after their swap?