Hello yes I have a multi meter I'm learning how to read it, the car runs good on the freeway run great, when you stop the car feel a little shaking very little the rpm is around 800 when car is hot it runs better
cold it runs but the engine light will flash, I did change both o2 censers down and upper one, I got one on eBay the second one from store, maybe O2 censer are defective!! Should I get a better one "Delco" that is what Honda use, well thank you for your help

 

Robletto,

Did you ever adjust the valves????

The three fixes for 'stutter' (misfires):

1. adjust valves (every 50 - 60K miles)
2. replace spark plugs (Iridium type: Denso or NGK)
3. Replace ALL coils (OEM or Hitachi part # ending in 053)

 

Thank you so much, will adjust valves, my next project, take care, thank you so much

 

yes indeed!! I have replaced the same thing twice, no idea what to do with my Honda Fit

 

OK just got the car back from the mechanic, it took a little over a week but it's finally fixed it had a burn valve, I never adjust the valves so one burn It cost me $1500.00 to change the burn or bad valve now I know every30 40 thousands miles to adjust the valves, guys take care and thanks for all your help CuoTE=Carbuff2;1376794]Robletto,

Did you ever adjust the valves????

The three fixes for 'stutter' (misfires):

1. adjust valves (every 50 - 60K miles)
2. replace spark plugs (Iridium type: Denso or NGK)
3. Replace ALL coils (OEM or Hitachi part # ending in 053)[/QUOTE]

 

I have a 2011 Fit and this same thing just started happening to me. P0303 code, car running running and idling rough, and the traction control light is on. I guess I'll take it to the dealer to get the valves adjusted first. It does tick when idling.

 

Note that a tight valve is QUIET, a loose valve TICKS.

But, sometimes the fuel injectors will tick also.



An independent Honda specialist mechanic will be cheaper than the dealer for the valve adjustment (if you don't care to DIY).

 

Any engine with solid lifter/follower valve train needs regular valve adjustments..
Can't understand the folks that fight it.. If there is no auto-adjust component between the cam and valve, wear and tear WILL require a valve adjust.

Valves get out of adjustment , mixture goes to hell, gap resistance goes up increases coil pack current and add to the at that on the GD the coils are between the exhaust ports and its overheated / fried coil pack.. Not that complicated..

This is not even unique to the honda, its a common problem on a lot of coil on plug engines..

Plugs/valve adjust/ coil packs by 80K miles and your very unlikely to see issues..

The Honda GD alternator systems on the fit is also an contributor, it drops charge voltage at low rpm to save load on the engine, when you lower voltage amperage goes up.. More current and you get more heat.. more heat quicker death to some electronic parts..

Good luck.

 

When the engine is having an issue or the misfire code is detected, THE ONLY right thing to do is to DIAGNOSE the problem. Do not start replacing parts.

The coil should be tested first, not just blindly replaced. The issue may not be the coil.

 

<br />if it gets better when he replaced the coils.. How does it make any sense that it needs a valve adjustment? He said tbis happened 2 or 3 times..and each time they put coils in..it ran good. My wifes 09 fit sport 5 spd. Has 150k miles..runs perfect and I dont think it had gotten valves adjusted before we got it..but maybe<br />

 

Huge mistake to start with on adding beyond stop of fuel. Your gas tank allows only so much room for the fuel and MUST keep a space at the top for vapor control Your excess fuel is drawn into the Tank ventilation system that was designed to send those vapors to be burned into your intake system. It can and does cause this system to malfunction and can even in some cases result in a fire under the hood. The control canister fills with gasoline in time and the engine control system becomes unable to read expected signals then all hell breaks loose. Many factory computer systems on our cars have a "Limp" mode designed in that is triggered when a major system gets a failed code , This mode forces the driver to deal with it or walk. One of our work trucks did this and our worker driving it drove back at a 20 mile per hour pace. These modes are not bypass able and though may, after a hard reset to the computer , run fine at first return soon enough to "Limp" mode.