Several weeks ago my clutch pedal started "sticking" ... it would not restore to the rest position "all the way out". At that point the pedal would still return 80% of the full stroke, and often pop the last 20%. I didn't think anything of it, since the clutch action had occasionally creaked (which I figured was the bearing/bushing needing some multipurpose grease) ... then on a trip multiple states away, the clutch starts not returning even to 80%. Gradually the return decreases past 50%, down to 20% by the time we finally pulled into our destination.

With the original observation of the clutch pedal not returning it's full stroke
When I originally noticed the clutch not returning all the way, I also noticed that after the car sitting for a day or more, the clutch would restore 100% at first, and possibly fade to 80% over the day's use (commuting).

When departing from the long trip, I used the clutch very sparingly, and made it home with >70% of the return travel. Running this past two other people (one veteran, one seasoned mechanic), the prime suspect is the clutch master cylinder. Any other suggestions?

... off to look for clutch master cylinder DIYs...
(07 Fit Sport, if it matters)

 

Bump, anyone??

 

Most likely fluid is leaking past the o-rings in the clutch master cylinder. You can try to bleed the system first in case your reservoir was low and let air into the system. For the small amount of fluid in the system, bleed it until the discharged fluid is clean.

I don't know whether anyone makes a cylinder rebuild kit for the car. Otherwise, you will have to purchase a new or rebuilt one. You may want to read up on the various threads that discuss using a master cylinder from a Civic that doesn't have the clutch delay valve.

While bleeding the clutch, you may want to bleed the brakes at the same time. Use new fluid as it is hygroscopic (attracts water).

 

Thanks palos - my theory was that the restoring spring inside the master cylinder might just be fatigued or worn out.

I've seen some of the threads on removing the delay valve, but it looked like those dealt with the newer model ('09 and up in the US), and mine is an '07. It seemed from this post that the CDV removal wasn't fitting with the older models.

I am familiar with the hygroscopic properties of brake fluid, but thanks for the heads-up.

Any other suggestions after I try the bleed? I did squirt some PB blaster on all the bleed valves to sit for a few days, and I'll pick up clear/translucent tubing to use in the bleeding process, but I have a question coming from the motorcycle world: Usually I bleed the moto brakes with the pump-pump-pump-squeezehold-bleedopen-close method... I can't reach the pedal (brake or clutch) while at the bleed point. Do I need a helper to do the bleeding, or can I just crack the bleed valve open and some pumping of the pedal will get the job done? I originally planned to have the helper with me the whole time, but if I can get the helper to just get it started, then I could do it on my own from there.

(Yes, I know about speed bleeders and mityvac - I used to have one, but then moved and no longer own one.)

 

Wow, thanks everyone for the advice, tips, and suggestions!

I reverse-bled the clutch from the bleeder valve up (slave cylinder back through master and into reservoir), and in addition to clearing out a bunch of "muddy" (murky) fluid, the clutch now gets pressure. I have to bleed the whole system from the top down (although I might just keep going bottom-up) to get out all the old, junky fluid, but along with a full bleed on all four brake calipers, this'll help with the whole schebang.

Maybe next time I'll just post on the motorcycle forum asking about the car.