Recently, several of my automatic door lock actuators stopped working on my 2010 Honda fit. I took it to the dealer and was quoted close to $500 EACH to fix them and there was an additional fee to fix the rear hatch lock actuator. My quote came out to well over $1500. I looked into ordering the parts and repairing it myself, but the new actuators run upwards of $180 each.

I figured Honda was using sub-par equipment since it couldn't be a coincidence that three of mine went out. So I decided to see if I could fix their sub-part equipment myself and it turns out the repair is relatively simple (especially for the rear hatch) and the small motor that burns out can easily be replaced with a better quality one for less than $10.

I don't usually make guides or videos, but I was so frustrated with Honda that I documented my entire process step by step and made tutorials on how to do it. My locks work good as new now.

Hopefully this helps anyone in the same boat.

The front doors are a little tricky, but if you follow the guide perfectly, shoulder only take about an hour. The rear hatch motor replacement literally only took me about 20 minutes (once I had the right motor).

Here's the front doors:

Here's the rear hatch:

I did run in to one HUGE complication when doing one of the passenger doors. If you don't reassemble the latch correctly, then it will not open once closed. I noted several times in the instruction video how to avoid this happening. I spent several days trying to get the door open and even several locksmiths and body shops couldn't get it open. In the usual fashion, I took it into my own hands to figure out how to drill the actuator/latch mechanism properly to release the latch and open the door and without the actuator/latch mechanism or damaging your car (except the rear window channel, but with proper tools you may be able to avoid that step). I also made a step by step guide on how to overcome this should it happen to you.

Fixing jammed door latch:

 

I really appreciate this video greatly. My problem was slightly different though, and unfortunately, your video skipped over this completely, even though you had to do it. On my 2011 Fit, the plastic retaining piece that holds the cable leading from the door cylinder lock to the actuator broke. This causes the mechanism to jam. You can lock the doors ok, but because the cable leading from the door cylinder lock to the actuator is jammed at the actuator, it makes opening the doors impossible from either the key or remote. And all the other doors, including the hatch, will not open unless the front drives door does also. And none of the doors, not even the rear hatch, has a key. So, locked out of the car.

Also, your caption under the video says its the front doors, but in the first video, you are doing both rear doors.

 

 

Extremely important note! The listed replacement motor (the 20mm motor for the hatch ONLY, the 10mm motors for the doors fit and work just fine) will not work with this actuator UNLESS YOU SLIGHTLY FILE DOWN THE REAR METAL NUB ON THE MOTOR. My motor kept seizing until I did this mod, and I spent many hours trying to figure out what was wrong since I was unaware that a mod was needed. Had I known this before, this info would have saved me many hours of fiddling with the actuator and from swapping out multiple motors needlessly. Also, I had to utilize zip ties to keep my hatch lock actuator from popping open when the lock is activated. Even with the screws holding it together, without the OEM glue it doesn’t want to stay closed when in use. Also, I just wanted to say thank you for the videos. I just utilized your passenger door lock actuator video as well, it was very helpful.