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Apex'i AFC Neo
Is anyone here is interested in a DIY on getting this running in our Fits? I got one running in my car recently, even though my lack of full exhaust limited my gains (I only got a 2hp increase overall with only a Fujita Intake) I could setup a nice DIY for this if there is some interest for it. ;)
I also have all my dyno runs, wich where 96hp stock (muffler deleted), 100hp with Fujita CAI and 102hp with the AFC Neo and leaned out to 13 - 13.5 A/F Ratio. I'm positive that a header, cat delete and full exhaust and extra tuning will net 110hp+ easily. |
Originally Posted by nttdemented
(Post 211348)
Is anyone here is interested in a DIY on getting this running in our Fits? I got one running in my car recently, even though my lack of full exhaust limited my gains (I only got a 2hp increase overall with only a Fujita Intake) I could setup a nice DIY for this if there is some interest for it. ;)
I also have all my dyno runs, wich where 96hp stock (muffler deleted), 100hp with Fujita CAI and 102hp with the AFC Neo and leaned out to 13 - 13.5 A/F Ratio. I'm positive that a header, cat delete and full exhaust and extra tuning will net 110hp+ easily. interested. got mine hooked up wrong because i got it way before they came out with a pinout |
Are you still running it improperly wired?
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Isnt that a little lean? My Mx-6 is on the stock ECU with larger injectors and fuel pump; driving around town my AFR's are 14.3-15.2. Thats just cruising.
Also, adding a header will make the car run a little lean anyway. Or so some have found out. |
Originally Posted by nttdemented
(Post 211356)
Are you still running it improperly wired?
sure am! thats why I need to get it fixed quick |
Alright I'll get some time tomorrow night and prepare the info. Its really not that complicated, but the wiring is tricky. ;)
I'll let you know. Btw 13.5 is richer than 14s - 15s. A properly tuned car will run 14.7+ AFR during low throttle. Most stock cars are tuned that way so that all the fuel is consumed properly and the car emits lower emissions. At high throttle most stock cars will richen up the mix to the 12s even 11s like our Fits, to help with reliability. The point is to lean the car out at high throttle position to extract better performance out of the engine throughout the power band. The important thing to keep in check is that internal temps don't get to high and that you don't lean the car enough to cause detonation, etc. So its a tricky balancing act. I'll keep you and everyone posted on the wiring specs. |
Originally Posted by nttdemented
(Post 211475)
Alright I'll get some time tomorrow night and prepare the info. Its really not that complicated, but the wiring is tricky. ;)
I'll let you know. Btw 13.5 is richer than 14s - 15s. A properly tuned car will run 14.7+ AFR during low throttle. Most stock cars are tuned that way so that all the fuel is consumed properly and the car emits lower emissions. At high throttle most stock cars will richen up the mix to the 12s even 11s like our Fits, to help with reliability. The point is to lean the car out at high throttle position to extract better performance out of the engine throughout the power band. The important thing to keep in check is that internal temps don't get to high and that you don't lean the car enough to cause detonation, etc. So its a tricky balancing act. I'll keep you and everyone posted on the wiring specs. |
Bump.. wheres the DIY :) i'm interested in this also...
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subscribed!
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Im interested in a detailed DIY:D
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you see, one of the main flaws in this is that the NEO or any piggyback that only controls fuel cannot compensate for timing changes. changing fuel alone, affects the stock ecu's timing whether u notice it or not. You wont be able to detect the knock or even hear it at times.
Getting it tuned, will only apply to those certain conditions. Come 6 months later, different weather conditions come about, stock ecm is adjusting its short term and long term fuel trims to the weather, but baam, the NEO/AFC intercepts the signal and add/subtracts its tuned amount from 6 months ago, ignoring any external signals (IAT, ECT, MAp, etc) in help providing the most optimal conditions. The stock ECU does this "balancing act" just fine without AFC interference for basic bolt-ons. Throwing in the AFC will disrupt the ECU's ability to balance properly b/c its bound to the programing of AFC. I've used the SAFC-2 in the past, gained 12hp from it tuned. But a year later, car didnt run as well as it used to anymore, took to dealer, they went top to bottom in trying to determine the problem, without trying to blame the SAFC-2. (dealer cool with mods). At the end, after several days of diagnosing, they told me to rid of the AFC and see if it helped. And so i did and car ran so much better. They later pinpointed that the AFC led to fried 3 of the 4 coilpacks (NOT CHEAP) somehow, and they replaced them out of good will. All in all, it'll look decent on the dyno sheet, but in the long run, your motor wont like it. |
Wow. Old thread is old.
Here's a most recent thread on it. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-safc-neo.html I posted the wiring diagram in there. I've yet to see any DIY for this, and the closest I've seen to a DIY would be that diagram from Siphon. |
Im selling mine for $200 shipped to anywhere in the US, if any1 is interested
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Originally Posted by George02
(Post 289361)
Im selling mine for $200 shipped to anywhere in the US, if any1 is interested
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Originally Posted by azkikersfit
(Post 289373)
damn! dat was quick! why u sellin it dude??
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